Sk8man

http://www.weather.com/series/crazimals/video/double-catch-breaks-records

I had also sent a note to the contact us but after the 8th try I succeeded in getting the transaction to process. Knowing how NYS is about money I wouldn't count on getting any "rain check"

(Finger Lakes and region) http://www.fingerlakes1.com/webcams.php

Accessing the website is a test of patience and endurance....it is grossly overloaded. I had to fill out the information in my account at least 7 times before it finally "took" The server is so busy it just kept dumping the info each time before that and I had to switch browsers to Internet Explorer from Firefox also.

Tim I hope you aren't counting on ice fishing on Seneca because Seneca seldom freezes enough for ice fishing, and open water stuff is also very questionable at the north end of the lake depending on weather related freeze-ups of the launches (in terms of public access). Have you also checked with either Barrett Marine or Stivers Marine? I think Fran and Deb Barrett go to Florida frequently so that may be out too... and are you talking about driving to a weigh in or boating? These two will likely be out because the Seneca Canal freezes over for boats at least as does the State Park and usually Sampson State Park and Lodi State Park launches. Often the only boat access is Roy's at the north end and (Severne Point launch) on the west side 2/3 of the way to Watkins Glen . Clute Park in Watkins Glen at the south end is often open for winter fishing depending on the specific weather conditions for a particular year but it is off and on with conditions.

Basically these two batteries have two different functions: the deep cycle is for long amperage draw down and a starting battery is for quick short term heavy amperage draw. You should be able to run small things like a low draw solid state depth finder from the starting battery OK but for the other stuff (downriggers, electric trolling motors etc. you need the deep cycle marine battery which can be taken right down to near nothing left without harming it. It is designed to be used that way and then recharged. The starting battery will quickly give out on you (shortens its life) if you use high draw (over time especially) items connected to it. My Merc Optimax motor requires that the starting battery be at least 1/2 charged or over or it won't even start the engine because of the high amperage draw. You do have another alternative to just one or the other and that is the hybrid combination starting/deep cycle battery. If you go that route get the heaviest duty one (they are pricier than the others too). I use the hybrid for powering my riggers and other stuff and it is charged by my 9.9 electric start trolling motor alternator which has to be cranking along pretty good to charge it much and the heavy duty marine starting battery is used for the main engine and my depth finder and I have never had a problem other than normal replacement after several years of use. I keep them fully charged all the time and the reason for the hybrid is so that if the starting battery ever happens to give out I can still hook up to the hybrid and start the main engine yet most of the time it is used as deep cycle. Rolmops made a good qualification too regarding the fact that you should stick to a marine grade battery as they are designed to be more resistant to vibration and knocking around.

Well said....I second that!

This is the compatability list: http://www.navionics.com/sites/www.navionics.com/files/documents/Americas_CompatibilityGuide_4.pdf

Hopefully folks will be able to get through because I saw it advertised last night on TV

The super cold weather doesn't help ANY electronic instrument and although it may not do any apparent damage who knows if it may shorten its life.... if it were me I'd store it out of the elements. Both my Minn Kotas reside in the garage for the winter (and they don't have autopilot)

That stuff won't break apart for sure The stainless has also been "annealed" which means that it has been "softened" so that it can be drilled without ruining your drill bit The annealing doesn't adversely affect the strength for this type of application and this is an excellent choice as would be aircraft grade aluminum if you can find/afford it.

http://www.weather.com/tv/shows/amhq/video/whats-causing-lakes-to-become-jellified

Folks have often got rid of the old Luhr Jensen cow bells ("flashers" to us old school dinosaurs) through yard or garage sales or on LOU because they have gone to lighter types with less drag (such as the Hammerheads). Why not ask on here if someone wants to part with some they don't want anymore? What I have done over the years is to dissemble old sets and re-do them with new beads, swivels, clevises, and wire ( old downrigger wire or old 7 strand wire from Seth Green rigs mine were 60 lb) works well). I've also added reflective tape to them as well to spruce them up where the blades were crapped up. Metal or silver polish can work wonders on bringing back the luster on blades that aren't too far gone too.

Thanks Ed for spotting that and posting it.