Sk8man

I think this may be more difficult than might appear at first glance in terms of catching them in numbers anyway.....

Hopefully we won't be returning to the TWO RODS PER PERSON which was in effect prior to this temporary experimental period where three rods are allowed (which is set to expire in December 2013).

When I bought my boat brand new I was told that because my 9.9 and 135 Optimax had different alternator amperages that if they were hooked up to the same battery they could shorten the life of the battery and may create (otherwise unspecified) problems so I've always had two batteries - one a heavy duty starting battery the other a heavy duty combination deep cycle and starting battery. The starting battery is hooked up to the 135 (and depth finder etc.) while the other battery is hooked up to the 9.9 and my electric downriggers and electric trolling motor. I was told by a number of marina mechanics that my 135 (and engines like it) needed at least half charge in the battery at all times to turn over the engine because of the high amperage draw they have. I have NEVER had a problem with this set up (other than normal battery replacement once since 2002). Don's comment above about the charging capability of the small motors alternator is a good one too. Unless they are run at HIGHER speeds they are not charging with anywhere near the max amperage you might assume. My advice would be to have TWO batteries and get the best ones you can afford. They are at the heart of everyone's system and its not an exaggeration (on Lake O) to say that your very life could depend on it (dead batteries almost always happen at the worst times). Kuba I just happened to think of an additional possibility and that is a PORTABLE MARINE starting unit that has multiple uses and you can take it from boat to boat as well. They are quite powerful and are rechargeable in conventional electrical outlets. Places like Cabelas have them for about the cost of a good battery (about $100)

I just took a look at the pricing.....no wonder they held off on publishing it Actually, the whole electronics game is getting pretty funny, and to take it to the extreme the fishing game is getting even funnier when it comes to the "new next best thing". If you are a charter captain dealing with the extremely short season here in New York State (and the East Coast for that matter) the latest "gizmos" may make a difference in attracting your customer base, but for the rest of us "wannabes" at the periphery the purchase of many of these "new technological advancements" is far from the "need to have" category in the fish catching realm. We talk ourselves (and our wives sometimes) into the need for much of this "stuff" and treat it as absolute necessity because marketing people tell us we need it to catch fish. The same is true for lure paint jobs and in my previous world - the newest computer and camera equipment which from the late 80's I spent enough to buy several brand new boats and it now is totally obsolete and basically useless. At this point in my life I am beginning to resent being part of the "herd" mentality and "biting" on these new "lures". A return to the old basics of actually fishing and feeling a sense of accomplishment when you figure things out yourself rather than relying on the latest "gizmo" to provide you with data that in many cases can be close to useless because you've forgotten the basics of the sport....just another way to blow your money in my view....and yes it has become a big part of the "game" these days. I'm not badmouthing this product in any way but trying to make a point .....maybe we are getting a bit far afield from sport fishing itself and sucked into the marketing hype of the electronics world.

For the type of stuff you said you are currently doing a size 3 will cover most situations

This is something that books could be written about but after 60 years of fishing for just about everything in freshwater and quite a bit in salt water I would say that for most lures especially spoons (heavy ones and flutter spoons large and small) you will want to use a swivel to help keep the line from twisting and to allow the lure to have uninhibited action. The key is using the smallest high quality ball bearing swivel you can get away with for a given lure that is still strong enough for the targeted species. Use single ring (soldered/welded ring) rather than split ring type to prevent line cut offs with large fish. For items like stickbaits (e.g. Rapalas, Smithwicks, and the like) a swivel like that just mentioned can be used but many folks PREFER to either tie them directly to the nose ring of the stickbait (often using a looped knot) to preserve the original intended action. If trolling (other than drifting or slow trolling) is desired you may want to opt for a swivel as fast speeds can generate line twist. Another avenue is the use of Fast snaps or Kwik clips for stickbaits which are little metal hook like things which ties directly to the line that allow you to change lures but they don't have a swivel function. I think that is basic "swivel 101" others may have additional info. Good luck with the fishing!

Sweet! ...but on the downside...I think I'm glowing from looking into the open box

If you don't have a heater it might be worth your while to RENT a commercial portable propane heater from a rental place if you have one nearby if it is affordable. The bottom line is that mounting that motor correctly is very important and it is one of those situations where you don't want to be in the position of later on saying to yourself "Why didn't I wait or take the time to do it right?" I can relate to wanting to get out there soon though

Use the special MARINE STABIL it is about $20 and covers about 320 gallons> It is triple strength compared with the red stuff.

A few things come to mind in addition to whats been said - 1) Try new plugs if they weren't brand new, and recheck the gap, 2) Was the fuel ethanol (water accumulates in it) gas? If so, put NEW non-ethanol fuel in your tank (at a marina?) and try it, That lean and rich mixture knob should be OK in the middle to start with until you identify other possible contributors. Check the fuel filter if it has one that is accessible to see if it is clogged. The mixture may have been too rich in terms of the 24 to 1 since it is a motor that has had some previous use I'd go with 40 to 1 as it is still in the ball park (esp. since you had that slick out back). If your gas line to the tank was old or stored for a long time it may have had old fuel or contaminated fuel in them that went to the motor and hasn't worked its way through the system. Try a new gas line. I'd do one thing at a time so you can see the results and hopefully identify the problem. If the engine sat for a long time the carburator may need to be cleaned by a competent mechanic. If the lean/rich mixture is set right you shouldn't have to mess with it much under normal conditions even when idling or slow trolling (but right now the temps are far from normal operating conditions).

Keeping them away from the kicker or your main engine is always the PRIORITY. Other than at very slow speeds you will always experience a degree of "blow back" or angle to the wire on the riggers. As Don said you just have to "estimate" a little where they are in relationship to the counter and your depth finder....unless you are going very fast this will be close anyway. They will look different when you are going with, against, or diagonally across currents. Most of the time I keep mine at 45 degree angles to the transom but I have 4 ft. booms and an 8 ft wide transom also (without ever having a tangle). This also worked with these same downriggers though on my little 13 ft. Whaler and I never had a problem with the kicker or larger motor. If it is possible to extend the boom length somehow this could help out if you have trouble with that present location.

Like the guys have already said there is no doubt that if you can find the Seneca perch it is the way to go but I had considered the above before making my suggestion about Cayuga. Seneca is a big body of water and you can spend all day looking for the perch if you aren't very familiar with it (especially the northern half of the lake which contains most of the shallow water. Fishing for perch in 50-60 ft. of water is usually not the most desirable or effective way to do it ( but i'll admit there are exceptions) The north end of Cayuga is shallower and has a much more defined weed growth and soft bottom which holds perch in more circumscribed areas than Seneca in the area I mentioned between the park and Canoga and it is only about 13-15 ft. out in the middle near the buoys. This lessens your time finding them considerably. There are some very good sized perch that inhabit that area especially toward Canoga (out from the cottages) and you don't have to travel all over the lake to find them either. Just something to consider. Good luck wherever you decide to fish as the little "greenies" often present a challenge even when you find them (especially in clear shallow water :>)

If the ramp is open at the State Park at the north end (Seneca Falls) it might be worth a shot fishing the west side from south of the park to Canoga at the what would be the outer edge of the weeds 8-15 ft water till it drops off. Minnows and spikes

You may already do this but you should run each spoon briefly at the side of the boat to get and idea of how your speed is affecting the action of them... some spoons need to be "tuned" and others the lead needs to be lengthened. At least it gives you an idea of how they are running at speed ( I know that it is not exact because of the depth difference and length of lead) I have found some spoons that I have had to either add a split ring or take one off too. I know some purists would never BEND a spoon but I've been doing it for many years on SOME spoons (e.g. Suttons, homemade spoons, and other light flutter spoons) to get the action I want but yes the spoon may work differently later on at a different speed. Another thing that could be a factor is hum from your downrigger cable spooking fish in the shallows at certain speeds. One of the things I've done for years is I attach a wine cork that has a slit up one side right on the downrigger cable near the boom and it seems to help "deaden" the noise and you can just take it on and off as needed or if you can't get to it in time it drops off at the head of the boom when it is reached without a problem. In the old days you could drink the wine too beforehand but I wouldn't do it nowadays

If you use the small dipseys and set the setting PAST 3 the dipsey will often keep coming right out of the water and won't stay down...haven't tried doing it with the bigger ones so don't know there.