TyeeTanic

Just remember to lubricate the knot before you pull it tight. I normally just lick the uni-knot after I finished wrapping and am ready to pull tight. Especially if you are using 20 lb or less, if not you will knick the line and cause a weakness.

It's an older wood lure ...

Here is the wire knot originally posted by chowder. Thanks again! http://www.fishdoctorcharters.com/videos/video3F.html

Nail knot???? How the heck do they get that to work. I just check the knot animations and I don't understand how the steel line won't slip out of the knot, unless they are doing something different. Anyhow, I'm just going to use a micro-swivel that will go through the wire guides. I'll only pull it through when I'm putting the rod away and taking it back out, so extra care needed then to ensure the mono/floro lead does not get cut through the wire guides. I'm going to put on about 10 feet of 40lb floro as a lead tonight on the wire rods. Will use a uni knot for the floro to swivel and a wire knot posted previously to the swivel. If you want me to repost the wire knot, let me know, it is a great knot. I am also putting some 10 to 15 foot 40# floro leads on my braid line rods - will join either using a double uni knot or an albright not, will see which holds up better. Mark

The question is mainly about spoons, either after a dipsey or straight to the spoon.

When I troll shallow - say 15 to 20 ft, I use drop weights on my power pro braid setup. Basically I use a stainless 1/4" ring which has the following three lines connected via quick snap swivels: - main line connects to the swivel, - 3 ft lenght of line (use 20lb floro) to the drop weight 3 oz, or 5 oz. - 4 ft lead line (40lb floro) to the lure I'm concerned my lead line to the lure is too short, and want to go to much longer lengths. Basically with the existing setup I can get around a 8 foot lead to keep it at my rod length, maybe 10 feet if I walk to the front of the boat. If I want to go longer - I need to change my setup, but don't know how. I would need to attach the floro to the braid directly using an albright knot, but then what about my drop weight?? This would still need to go onto a ring and the furthest back I can put it from the lure is 10 ft again. So the question is, is it worthwhile to run say 15 feet floro lead to a ring which connects everything up as per the above and then use a 10 foot lead to the lure? Will the fish be sensitive to the ring, that it doesn't make it worthwhile to have the first 15 foot lead to the ring - or is it worth doing this???

I use clamp ons for my wire dipseys and they work great. I clamped two of them onto a grab handle on either side (inside) of the boat. The angle on them can be changed with a provided alan key. It holds pretty well to the handle, but I have to tighten every month or so - it's not a big deal takes 5 mins. Word of advice - I've heard many guys complain about clamp ons, and I 100% believe it is because they went cheap. I paid $110 for each of my clamp ons - got them at West Marine. Go to there website and put in product # 8674087. Here is the website link to the product as well, hope it works! http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... sNum=10800 Tight lines!

Hello everyone, I am using a quick connect ball bearing swivel to connect the lead to my lure, but am worried the fish are seeing all that jazz! I am catching fish with this setup, but wonder if I'll be more productive just tying the lead directly to the lure. So is a quick connect to the lure a good idea or should I tie directly to the lure?? Thanks!

Hey everyone. I am currently using 40# lead at 4 foot lengths. But have heard many people saying 20# is better for lure action and the lead needs to be way longer, like 15 ft. Would appreciate your advice, would like to try out tomorrow on the water, so please add a reply. I am also creating a poll to track the views of members over the week. Thanks!

I use a uni knot - hasn't failed me yet. See this link. http://www.netknots.com/html/uni_knot.html

I don't think the lines are more than 30 ft from the boat - but I am guessing. I've never done the math. If I'm right you don't want to come within 60 feet of each other, but that pretty close.

How do you join wire to a mono lead without a swivel??? For this to work, I need the knot tight without a swivel so I can reel the knot all the way in and have only mono through the guides.

Hey guys - just bought a VHF radio and signing up to get my licence. What channels are you guys on, on the weekends?

Read my post above, I have Precision Trolling's Big Water 2 Book - it has all the charts. If you want to know depths, get this book - it is very precise. The image you are looking at showing the spread is in the link below. It is the very last paragraph. http://www.luhrjensen.com/downloads/tec ... yDiver.pdf Don't use the depth charts in this link though as they are not accurate for wire or braid.

Assuming you are traveling at 2.5 mph and you are talking about a Mag 3 Diver with ring - you will get about a 2:1 on wire, but it does taper off as you get longer - so 100 ft = 50 ft, 200 ft = 90 ft, 300 ft = ???? There are no graphs for this much wire out.

You still have LOTS of time.

I went out yesterday, off Bronte - it is freezing out there!!! The surface temps were 46F. It might be worse today. You will need to head out - FAR!

500' of wire is not enough - you will get to close to the line and possibly lose everything. Setting dipsey's deep may already cost you 250 - 300' of wire. Then a good king can run 100' - 150', so you will have 450' of line out - leaving 50' left - that's a small reserve as far as I'm concerned. Come to the end of this reserve and you have lost all of your 500' wire plus all your tackle. That will more than pay for the extra 500' of wire. It really isn't worth it to cut costs here - put the 1000' on.

Probably just creat a loop at the end of the wire and twist around then attach the mono like you are going through a swivel - but would really like to hear how it's done by MountainM.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the advice. So will I just see a major swing up in temperature, or should I stop when I see a certain temperature like 65F or 70F?

Guys - I could not believe my friggin eyes tonight when I went out in the water. The surface temperature at Bronte is 46F!!!! Just yesterday it was 72F. Anyhow, I tried from 75ft - 125 FOW. Found baitballs at 80 ft and marked a few big boys at the same depth, but I only had two shakers on. I fished everything between 20 and 30 ft. But I must say it was unproductive really. What is the best technique - move into shallow water and set the spoons in shallow water, or move to warmer surface water much further into Lake O? If you search for warmer water, what temp do you look for? Is 65F enough? Thanks.

MountainM - the mono suggestion sounds cool. I have 40 lb Floro lead - will that be good enough?

Good idea.

Chowder I know, but the problem is I have to seperate the two pieces of my rods to store them. This means if I keep the tackle on I bend the wire around two guides, and it causes kinks. I have a bow rider and I have no where to keep the rods if they are fully assembled. What I do is break them down and then lock them away in a compartment on my boat. So problem is because of this, I run the risk of kinking wire after each fishing trip after I put the rods away. It is better for me to just cut the wire and tie it around the first guide closest to the reel. It keeps the wire tight and I don't need to worry about kinks. What I do is keep my dipsey set up all ready - so everything except the fly or lure is all hooked up. All I do is pull the wire through the guides, tie the snap on and attached the dipsey set up. It takes me 5 mins max. Mark

By the way - does the same apply to braid line?