SmellsLikeFishNH

I hired a guide to come out on MY boat with me for the day to see what I was doing, what I was running and how I was running it. That was worth every penny!! It changed my trips from skunks to limits on every trip.

Thanks Blackie, that was a great article to read. I appreciate it. 2 more questions.... When you have a fish on and you are fighting and reel up to the board, do you just spin the board and remove it fully from the line? It has to come off im assuming to finish reeling in the fish. Last question, in the article it says "Its easy to put your 100 back outside of your 200 or 300 etc once a fish hits." This has always been my own dilemma when fishing different lengths of copper or even lead core. How do you reset your shorter lengths? Just deploy it as usual and because its shorter in theory it will stay up higher than the deeper lines and not tangle them? thanks again!! -Scott

I fish my copper setups on Lake Champlain for lakers, still trying to get out to Ontario to fish on the big lake for kings and will eventually happen. My question is about using inline boards vs my big boards. Currently when targeting lakers im running 250 and 300ft segments off my boards. It seems to be a lot of weight and drags the boards back behind the boat. I use the OR-10 line releases and have 50lb power pro as my backing. Ive never tried using the TX-44 style of planer boards. Would I be better served running 4 of them on each of my 4 copper rigs as opposed to running them off the big boards? I don't seem to have too many tangles, just the issue of the boards being dragged behind. Also does anyone have any tutorials on how to rig the TX-44's as ive never even seen them used. Ive always ran the big planer boards or Otter Boats. thanks!

SOLD

Well here is my weekend update... Got the boat on the water for the 1st time this season and with new electronics, new batteries, new trolling motor, etc....same exact thing!! Called Cannon and explained the issue to them, they offered to have me send in the downriggers to them for an evaluation, but to them if BOTH are doing it then it must be some sort of electrical issue interfering. they have now asked me to run them on their own battery with NOTHING else on the batteries. Now, this may be difficult as I already have 2 batteries in the boat and there isn't anywhere for me to put another battery except on the floor of the deck. I tried arguing the fact that doing that while possible, really isn't practical. Who the heck has space to run 2 standalone batteries in addition to the batteries they already have running all of their other electrical components. So here we go again, will now try that, even though they each ran off of independent batteries before, now I will have to try and run them on batteries that have nothing else attached, not even the motors he said.....UGH!!! For $1500 a downrigger you would think they would be engineered to work with other fishing equipment. Thanks guys! -Scott

If anyone is interested, let me know. I have a pair, practically brand new with the dual keel for sale. $350 Brand new......will sell for $225. -Scott

John Thank you for taking the time to write that response...I appreciate you putting in that effort. The contours im fishing are not too dissimilar, there is the occasional drop and hump etc that you would expect on the floor of the lake, but the differences are never really that dramatic. The numbers I listed were really just to show the type of readings it will give, its not an exact representation. I will look and see if there is a gain control built into them to see if I can adjust that. You would think that there should be, but I honestly don't recall it, I will look at the product documentation later today. Talking with Cannon, they had me readjust the angle of the transducer, which I tried. Didn't change anything, same issue occurred. Of course this only happens when I am running the bottom tracking feature, which was one of the main reason I bought these. I can use them in other functions with no issues. The good news I have is I'm eliminating a LOT of what I had last year that could of caused electrical interference. I am getting a new 2015 Mercury Trolling motor tomorrow with the charging coil and I have removed my older Raymarine and Lowrance Mark IV and replacing them with a Lowrance HDI 7. Hoping that those changes alone will make things work as expected...hardest troubleshooting aspect is I can ONLY see this when I am out on the water fishing, cant test it in the driveway or at the dock. Thanks again!!

I did call them, and so did Dan, the other guy on the lake I fish in NH that has the same problem. they were absolutely useless to both of us and had no idea how to help. Neither of us run Cannonlink as neither of us have Humminbird systems. These are just running off of their own transducer. Thanks everyone.

Thanks! Wasn't sure if I needed to run a spoon behind it or just the plain hook.

Can anyone show me a link on how to rig these spin n glows? I want to give them a try this year. Im assuming the spin n glow just floats on the line, and do you run a spoon at the business end or just a trailing hook? Thanks!

Hi guys, Those of you who run these, have any of you seen the transducer readings so bat $hit crazy and start spooling and unspooling line when you are running bottom track? I bought these last year and Cannon seems to have no clue what to do. another guy on the lake I fish ALSO has the exact same problem, so I know its not just me. The Transducer will read (these are just random #s as an example) 50-55-53-50-200-300-50 50 50 150 300....etc.....it doesn't do it all the time, it might work great for 3 hours then all hell breaks loose. Sometimes it happens immediately other times hours into using them. The ramifications of it happening is crazy downrigger wire bird nests on the spool. Once it "catches" itself and resets to actual depths it spools or unspools like crazy trying to get the wire back in or let it out. Any thoughts are appreciated. - I run each downrigger on their own battery - Ive turned off my Raymarine Fish finder to see if it was causing issues - Ive turned off my Lowrance to see if it was doing the same - Seems to happen even when the other transducers on the boat are off. - 6hp Johnson 2 stroke Trolling motor is wired to the batteries as well for charging purposes while trolling. Thanks in advance!!

I'll take the Finger Lake spoons, I just sent you a PM

Can I ask why you are selling it? You can send me a PM if you would like...ive been curious about buying one of these. Thanks!

Sent you a PM

Fastenal sells them....Ive seen them on their site, you just have to look for a ball joint connector i believe its called.

Ill be calling Canon in the morning

Anyone else who has these ever have the transducer readings go crazy? I was using mine this weekend and last weekend using the bottom tracking, and the readings would go from what was expected, say 75ft...then the numbers would start going nuts...150, 225, 400, etc......it would then of course start unspooling cable thinking that it needed to be 5ft off the bottom or whatever the transducer readings say. Once it would finish going nuts it would get the real reading again and start trying to spool back up the cable...it created birds nests in the cable, kinks, and 1 lost ball and release set due to the cable snapping after it dropped and got caught on the bottom. It would run fine for an hour or so at a time then go crazy again for 5 minutes...then be fine again for a while then go nuts etc....it's 2 weeks in a row, I adjusted my trolling motor to be further away from the transducer, thinking that the bubbles or turbulence was messing up the readings, but that doesn't make sense as it would do it in calm conditions, windy conditions, waves, etc....it was no pattern or rhyme or reason to it.....any advice or help is appreciated. If any of this helps, each is attached to their own battery, they are connected to each other by the Canon cable. I have Raymarine and Lowrance fish finders, the Lowrance is 433/800khz and the Raymarine is 50/200khz...I turned off the Lowrance to see if that helped, but still the crazy readings....

I had never thought of a GPS enabled device that didn't require some sort of cell plan, if you don't need the cell plan, and the built in GPS will find where you are, then that would be ideal, and would work GREAT....I have Navionics on my Ipad, but I just use it from home to plan out where im going.