FishingFool34

Hopefully the 2 weeks of warm-ish weather coming will do the trick....

Still looking for 2 convector 20s and now 1 convector 55. PM me

https://twintiers.craigslist.org/boa/d/bradford-starcraft/6829459050.html just came across this one...

Not an odd species but an odd catch.... Caught a lake trout in 180fow on what amounted to 3 colors of LC. I had a 10 color out and had reeled in 7 colors already when I stopped reeling for a second to make a course correction and the laker hit and nearly took the rod out of my hand.

I’ll take these... pm me your PayPal info.

That's what I was afraid of... breaking rubber bands are fine for big boards but that's not gonna work on inline boards. Inline board has to be connected directly to the line someplace in order to not lose the board. I guess it's either braid backing on steel or go with copper set ups. Thanks

This was posted in another thread

According to my chart a Mag dipsy on a 3 setting with 200ft of braid out will dive to roughly 75ft. Like others have said if there are no fish there, you're not going to catch anything. I have always considered a Mag dipsy an "aggressive" presentation so I tend to run big flashy stuff off my Mags, 10"+ paddle with meat rigs or big flys. Get yourself a good dive chart for dipsys, I know I have posted the one I use on here someplace. If you can't find PM me and I can send you a picture of it. Then get your dipsy down to where the fish are.

That is correct for the newer helix units, but ipilot Link is also compatible with Solix units, Onix units and a good number of the older legacy units too (ie. 1199ci, 788ci, etc). Here is the compatibility list from Humminbird. https://www.minnkotamotors.com/support/compatibility/i-pilot-link

Just an FYI, if you're looking to connect your Terrova to a helix 7 via ipilot Link, you will need a G2N Helix 7. The G2 version is not compatible with ipilot Link.

I emailed Torpedo last summer and asked them about using the wire in a planer release and this is what they responded with. I wasn't ready to make the purchase then so I didn't think anymore into it at that time. I am ready now and realized I didn't really know what he meant by what he said or if he was talking about big board releases vs inline boards. So I asked the question here... anyway this is what they said

I'm pretty sure this has been confirmed by other members here. It's not that the wire sinks the same as the steel it's that the wires small diameter allows the steel to continue to sink I believe. Ask him and how he recommends using this setup on planer boards, as I'm sure I'm not the only one wanting to know.

The reason for using wire as backing is that it maintains the same sink rate into the backing when using wire. So 200ft of weighted steel plus 100ft of wire backing sinks to the same depth as 300ft of weighted steel and so on. So with 200ft of WS and 500ft of wire backing you would have the ability to reach whatever depth 700ft of WS would be (way more than most people would ever need). If I backed with braid that setup would be good for one 1 certain depth, meaning I would need multiple setups for different depths. Even if I splice in braid/mono to attach the board to I'm essentially limiting the setup to a certain depth by the point I splice in line, not to mention adding in more failure points. The reason I want to run it on boards is I'm limited in a smaller boat to how many lines I can get out. I normally run 2 riggers and 2 dipseys (occasionally 4 but I really don't like to). Then copper or LC off boards. I only have (2) 300 copper setups and couple different LC setups currently. I was looking into getting a 200 and 400 copper setups to add this year when I read about steel. I could have all 3 of the setups I want (plus more) on one reel with steel. In 2 steel setups i could cover all 6 of the combos I want and not have to buy 4 more rods/reels/copper. Which would save me well over $600.

So the only option for a weighted steel setup to flat-line it? This is why I asked this question before I actually bought anything. Seems very versatile for the multiple depths it can reach but if the deployment methods are limited to just flat lining it off the side, than it's not the right stuff for me. Ill stick with copper that I know I can run off boards with no issues if that is the case.

I almost certainly would never use a 700ft setup but can see myself using 200, 250, 300, 350, 400 maybe even up to 500. Having all those setups on one reel saves me room in the boat and prolly close to $1000 in combos and copper I don’t have to buy. by the time I let out 300 copper, clip on a weight to the backing and then let out enough backing to where the weight actually does something... how much line in the water am I actually saving between a 300 with a weight and a 400 without? im sure I’m not the first guy to want to run a WS setup off an in-line planer.

The point of the 19 strand wire on weighted steel is the versatility of that setup. Steel with wire backing will keep sinking at the same rate. So 200ft steel plus 500ft of wire gives the ability to have a 200-700 copper setups on a single reel.

I want to know how to attach 19 wire to an in-line planer board. I don’t want rubber bands breaking as I don’t want to lose the board. I’ve read ppl say they use rubber bands for this to work. But I don’t know how to attach the rubber bands to the wire and then attach to the planet board.

So I'm looking into purchasing the stuff to have 2 weighted steel setups to try this year. I did some searching on how to attach the 19 strand wire backing to planer boards and keep seeing people mention using rubber bands. I run offshore inline boards and am curious how this is supposed to work? I guess I'm looking for more specifics info on how this works without damaging the wire or risk of losing the board.