How to fiberglass.... HELP!

[Trolling82]

Ok, tried my first fiberglass project today.... I think the only thing I did right was put gloves on!

Anyway, I am putting a piece of pt plywood on the outside of the transom to help reinforce/protect the hull where I am putting the kicker on. I am also putting it on the inside of the transom. The kicker bracket mounting section is about 8" x 8.5". I cut a piece of plywood 10" x 10.5" with a 45 degree bevel. I sanded the area on the transom plus 3" extra around it. I applied a generous amount of silicone to the back off the plywood and screwed it onto the transom. Now to fiberglass!

Got me some resin, hardener, and mat at the local Lowes. Mixed the resin and hardener according to directions on the container. Wiped it on the plywood and surrounding hull. Put a piece of mat on. Started to apply more resin mix..... Wait, all the fiberglass fibers are bunching up as I brush the resin mix on instead of staying flat and in place. Ok, spread it back around kinda nice like. Do a couple more layers. Why do I only have 1" of lap on top edge of the plywood? I know I had at least 2" when I put the first layer on.... Oh, all the resin and mat is slowly sliding down the transom! Angrily pull the whole mess off and throw it in a corner. Start over. Put just one layer of mat on and very carefully apply resin mix to try and keep fibers from bunching up all over. Walk away.... Come back a few hours later and the bottom section has pulled away from the transom and is just hanging there. Gingerly get it back in place and walk away. Going to check it in the morning but I have a good guess what I'm going to find....

What am I doing wrong? Is it too cold out to fiberglass? I'm working in a non-heated pole barn.

[snyder]

Definately too cold out. I think most polyester resins say no colder than 65degrees with 70 bieng more like it.

[Trolling82]

Figures... Maybe I can find a place to do it. Have a couple options but not sure if their doors are tall enough to get the boat in.

Any other tips would be great....

[Trolling82]

Decided to just paint it....

[seasquirrel]

interlux site has some great how to videos. I am waiting for decent weather to glass the new transom in my kids boat.http://www.youtube.com/user/JamestownTV ... FmtbZu_5no

[711skwerlz]

It's best to have the warmer temps. It helps the resin to kick up. Make sure the area under your glass is rough enough to make it stick. The resin you put down should be enough for the next layer of cloth to soak up.

The cloth soaks up the resin! Don't coat the cloth! OR Coat the cloth away from your project and then apply it like tape. This gives you the right amount of resin not too much.

A hair dryer will help it set up faster. May be able to use small drill holes and tooth picks to hold it. They are easily patched later.

Not a professional! I don't build boats I work on aircraft!

[sfarm]

T82 Hit the nail on the head with temps.....Just remember that is a surfase temp not air temp. Can you tarp it then stick in a torpedo heater to heat the area... Just remember resins and the fumes are flammable. so have good ventalation and no exposed flame during application. Either way its tough to do in the cold. Good luck

[Trap Jaw]

Two things. One, it is WAY too cold. Second, the resin from Lowes is junk. It needs to be at least 60 deg. to use that stuff, and there are no allowances if the ambiant temp is higher or lower. You can do it this time of year, but you would have to go with a premium fiberglass like West Systems. They sell different activators, slow, fast, very slow. If I'm remembering right the working time with the cheap stuff at this temp is something like 8-10 hrs. West Systems with fast activator should start to gel in a hour or two at these temps.

One trick that I learned when working when it's cold is if you want to help the resin along, use heat lamps or halogen work lights, any light that throws off a lot of heat. This will help raise the temp. around the working area bringing it closer to where it should be. Plus another benefit with lights is you can point them at the work area and walk away.

Question, is there wood in the transom where you are mounting the kicker?

[lakebound88]

i saw it today, looks good Bob! Can we please get the motor on now it looks so lonely sitting there!!!!

[Trolling82]

1. Seasquirrel.... Can you get me that chic's number in that video?

2. Unfortunately I do not have electric in the pole barn so I'm just going to paint it. I thought it would be awfully nice looking and strong to fiberglass it, but I was probably going over-board. I got some rustoleum oil based paint. (local marine recommended). Just hope it sticks! If the paint starts proving to be a problem later on, then I will pick a warm month and fiberglass it!

3. Trap Jaw, it's your classic plywood sandwiched with fiberglass transom. (full transom). About midpoint of where I am mounting the bracket there is a horizontal piece about 4" long going across the inside of the transom so that will help strength as well as the 2 pieces of pt plywood I will be putting above and below the stabilizer.

4. Nick, I'll try to get it I'll finished by the time you get back in town. We got to get your rocket launcher on. And with all the work I've yet to do on Sean's boat, I better get moving!

[seasquirrel]

LOL. I would be a bit distracted if she helped "glass" a boat

[big easy]

Exactly what trap jaw said.Never buy resin at any retail home center,it's all junk.It's poor quality resin to begin with,and all polyester resin has a shelf life.If they don't move it fast enough,it sits on the shelf and deteriorates.

The reason you ended up with a mess of clumped up fibers,is because you used fiberglass mat.Mat is composed of random glass fibers,held together by a binder that dissolves when you apply the resin to it.

When you try and brush it,you mix up and spread the fibers in a big mess.You need to use a short nap roller to apply mat,as the roller leaves the fibers where they are,and doesn't spread them around.

You can use a brush in small areas or tight spaces like corners,but you have to use the brush in a dabbing motion,never like a paint brush.You would have been better off to use a stitch mat like 1708 that has mat on one side and a bias cloth on the other.You can brush that till your fingers fall off with no problem.

As for the cold temps,resin will not cure properly with temps in the forties or low fifties.As mentioned,you could do your layup work ,and then apply heat to it to get it to cure.You will need a good flow of heat however,not a hair dryer.If you have a propane heater,like one of the little coleman type ones,you could set it up a few feet away from the work,and let it warm up a large part of the area that you glassed.A better way would be a heated garage,or wait until warmer spring weather.

If I can help,send me a pm.I work in the marine fiberglass wholesale business,and have done a lot of glass work.If nothing else,I can tell you what to use,and where to get cloth and resin and other stuff at much better pricing,and far, far, far,better quality then any of the big box hardware and marine supply places.

[Trolling82]

Big Easy,

Thanks for the info and I'll definitely be taking you up on your offer. I know a couple garages that are heated I might be able to use but I have to check and make sure the boat will fit in them! Otherwise, expect a pm when it gets warm!

[Trap Jaw]

Help me out, why do you need to reinforce the transom if there is already wood the full width?

I ask because every motor I've mounted on my boats has had a full width wood transom. I just drill the holes and bolt it up. The only boats I've ever done that I worried needed reinforcing are friends boats that did not have full wood and it was just fiberglass. Yes their boat we put wood or stainless backers on the inside of the transom.

On a different note. I would have offered you help or the use of my barn, but I'm sure you don't want to trailer it all the way to PA.

[Trolling82]

Call it piece of mind. I like to reinforce everything like fort knox. It's an older boat (82) and I'll be doing a lot of trailering with it. I'd rather over do it and not have to worry about anything than not do enough and have uh ohs.

[Trap Jaw]

OK, I got ya. I can't blame you, I'm the same way. When I bolted up my latest kicker they recomended using 1/4" bolts. I reamed out the holes and used 3/8" bolts. Nothing wrong with over enginering, I think with few exceptions nothing ever failed with that thinking.

[lakebound88]

kinda like the o-ring slice...."uh ohhhhhh" but i hooked you up!