Shark cannonball / Subtroll questions

[Jammer]

I have been running a 12 lb Cannonball below my recently added Moor Subtroll probe and feel that the excessive blowback is giving me much lower than true downspeed, as the probe is angling down as I go faster.

My indicated downspeed has never ever been equal to or greater than my GPS speed. I know this is just wrong.

(Sometimes the down speed indicated actually drops a lot as I hit the gas to speed up and the cables swing back.)

So--- I got a 15 lb chrome shark weight which I'm hoping will help a lot.

Questions:

1. Since the shark has only one eye, what is the best way to rig the release?

2. How does the chome attactor of the shark affect best distance to the flasher fly? (I usually use a Spin Dr. on my lower probe rigger.)

Any other tips I should know regarding using the chrome shark or to get less of the blowback speed impact on my Subtroll?

Thanks!

JAM

[Legacy]

your downspeed is what it is believe it. your gps and your downspeed will be different at most times but thats why we have down speed units to make the corrections to our speed. there is a point that extreme blow back causes your subtroll to start loosing speed (due to the cable angle). but it can be resolved by slowing down and allowing the subtroll to "catch up". i also own a subtroll and have found that my temp reads slower than other units (my guess is 1/2 mph slower). what you need to do is match speeds with someone. mimic trolling direction and gps speed, and then look at your downspeed and compare. you may find 2 different answers.

[Billy V]

The quick and easy way to rig the release is to clip a Black's release to the top of the probe and then just run a short line below the probe to the Shark. We run flashers/flys off of our Sharks all the time and have had good success with them that way. Adding the 15# Shark should eliminate a LOT of the blowback you've been experiencing.

We used to use the Black's release above the probe and it worked just fine for us, but last year we started using the Walker Clincher with the Black's style release on it and really like it a lot. It requires some drilling on the Clincher and a new snap, bolt, two nuts, and a wire fastener. But there are no more crimps holding my probe on, which I like a lot!

[Jammer]

Thanks Billy! Any chance you could post a pic of the setup?

BTW - I miss Fairhaven. My folks sold their place at the very south end of the bay a couple years ago. I've been here out of Braddocks since.

Congrats on the LOC fish. Nice job.

[Billy V]

Here's the only pic I have of the set-up. This is an older-style Clincher without the Black's style release. We have the newer one with the release built into it and it's a good set-up for us.

You need to drill out the rivet that holds the big snap in place and replace it with a stainless bolt and two nuts. While you've got it apart, take the snap that comes with the Clincher and throw it in the trash. It's way too soft and opens up far too easily. We had ours open up three times the first time we used it and we were surprised that we didn't lose our probe and our Shark. We replaced it with a Cannon snap and we're much happier with it. Strip a half inch or so of coating off the cable and crimp a wire fastener to it. Put that over the bolt and pinch it in between the two nuts you have on the bolt.

A little hint that we've found is to make sure that the loop on that connection comes into the release from the rear. If it comes in from the front, near the release, it'll tangle your line and might cause you to lose a fish. We check ours every day to be sure that it hasn't slid around to the front.

If you're in Fair Haven again, stop by the boat and we'll show you our set-up. After we get through the next two pro-am weekends we'll be around Anchor a lot for the rest of the season.

[Jammer]

Thanks for the pic and the great advice!

Good luck in the ProAms.

Jammer