L&M

It was addressed

Look up Tamiron Honeybees, been producing fish for years

A good quality check valve either inline or at the water separator and/or a simple inline shut off valve between the fuel source & the primer bulb to the kicker is the only fool proof way to do it in my opinion and the many others who have done severe damage or blown there main engine due to a lean mixture. Primer bulb will work and alot get away with it, BUT alot don't & thats where the trouble comes in. That primer bulb is designed for one thing and thats a very simple inexpensive internal check type ball or flapper to facilitate getting fuel a short distance from the tank to the engine only. Example is when you have to hold the bulb vertical with the arrow of flow pointing up to even get the valve to seal & draw fuel when your pumping up you outboard, now what is it doing when it laying horizontal or slightly angled down? You have no idea . Every one has there own opinions when it comes to this but I've seen to many costly repairs to the main engine or engines that could of been avoided by doing it right the first time & not relying on an inexpensive primer bulb that wasent designed for that purpose to start with.

Just switch the cable out to rotary style, helm will be replaced with the Lowrance or Octopus style drive anyhow that utilizes the rotary cable.

That would be all well & good Jim if he was running equipment that would require a 40a run, but as you can see above what he is using this run for barley maxes out at a 15 amp draw & that's including the max draw of the vhs if it were transmitting on high power, hence the 10 gauge for that short of a distance and draw. I should of included a 20 amp fuse to clarify it.

I just closed it for you jk

I would guess your only running about 15' in that size boat 10 gauge would be more than enough & have room to add more toys down the line if you wanted.

If your running your power to the fuse block thu your battery switch to kill it when you shut the switch down you would want to pick up your 12v power at the "on" side of the battery switch and fuse it there.

As Shawn said that is the correct way of doing it , anything coming off the battery should be fused at the battery, amperage depending on load. In your case 40a should be more than sufficient.

You are right > The battery is grounded directly to the engine block & that's as far as it goes. Any other grounding should go directly to the battery or engine block, NOT using the hull as a ground plate on an aluminum hull boat.

That appears to be little more than an inline noise filter for some type of electronics the owner had on the boat at the time. It can be eliminated & wire your fuse block up as you see fit. You made reference to it was grounded to the frame assuming hull, under no circumstances should any part of the 12 volt system or electronics be grounded to the hull.

You will be safe with a 7.5 amp