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Everything posted by L&M
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Provided you filled it in the conventional way from the bottom until it bled out the top vent, then went ahead & topped off the tank, you shouldn't have lost much more than a few ounces after the first run and any air had a chance to purge. 10 to 12oz indicates a leak somewhere & if your not seeing it externally, pull the drive again & see if there isn't oil in the u-joint bellows. If I had to guess your loosing it thu the upper yoke seal.
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Wolcott Port Bay west side
L&M replied to 92xerNY's topic in New York Fishing Reports - Lake Ontario (South Shore)
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State park in Fair Haven is open too
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Electrolysis is a very real & common issue for all the above reasons & precautions that Guffins listed above. I see signs of it on just about every boat that's slipped for the season especially where shore power is in use. Be aware of it & keep an eye on your zinks/magnesium anodes for any signs and you should have no problems.
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magill : I'm assuming your steering an outboard & not an I/O. If that is the case there are several good options for the cable steer you have with out going the extra expense of hydraulic. As mentioned above Si-tex makes a good basic system utilizing an octopus R wheel drive, your rack & pinion cable will have to be replaced with a rotary style cable to work with the new helm. The Lowrance/Simrad system utilizes the same octopus helm as the Si-tex. If you do decide to go with hydraulic steering stay with the Seastar line over the Baystar or other after market brands for compatability with add ons later. And Chas : It depends on the system . The octopus is capable of driving some i/o's without the engine running.
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Stay away from the multi viscosity oils and use the recommended straight weight oil it was intended to use when it was built & you should see a considerable difference in both consumption & pressure. Factory recommendations for that era 318/360 is straight 30w in temps above +30* fahrenheit Shell Rotella would be my first choice
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Wanted side curtains and back drop need done
L&M replied to [email protected]'s topic in Classifieds - Buy, Sell, Trade or Rent
John Mann Sodus Pt. 315-871-6400 -
What Sherman said, just asking for trouble if your running it that hard consistently. If it's turning that high and everything is in order you are under propped ( to low of pitch ) WOT early flat tappet cam 5.7L 4400 - 4800 RPM's.
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https://www.amazon.com/Scepter-Marine-Brass-Siphon-Valve/dp/B01BNBEF64/ref=asc_df_B01BNBEF64/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312094677816&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1031204924829857041&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005656&hvtargid=pla-570810915055&psc=1 or similar , brass is the better option over the aluminum version https://www.google.com/search?q=marine+anti+siphon+valve&oq=marine+antisiphon+&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l5.18448j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
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Lets not confuse this issue anymore than it has to be Cornelius Both do the exact same job and that is letting fluid flow in one direction only. They might do it in a different internal manor but they both do the same thing. The anti-siphon valve that screws in the tank and that can also be used off a water separator for the kicker feed utilizes a light spring, ball & seat to seal any back flow at all times unless there is vacuum draw on it. If there is no draw on it it is sealed closed on the seat as not to let fluid/gas siphon out of the tank hence the name. There are other styles of check valves that can be used as well but the anti-siphon tank style valve fits the bill in many cases.
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for sale : usa 1990 Penn Yan Challenger for sale
L&M replied to tbamniagara's topic in Boats for Sale
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