rolmops

You might consider me one of the people who always tries to save a penny or two by improvising things and hoping it will work. Usually after many trials and mostly errors I come to the conclusion that I am not as smart as many engineers and the price of my "improvements" and jerry rigging is often higher and less efficient. In the end it usually is cheaper to buy something that works well and does not need repairs or improvements. Besides, usually parts individually bought are much more expensive than the ready package.

It is based on the old Seth Green meat rigs, but with a twist. Today we have the fish finders ,but also the mussels. So we can use the fish finder to locate fish , but we cannot just drag the weight throught all the mussels and often poison carrying sediment. It's best to leave that undisturbed. Granted that it mostly works on bottom location, the idea here is more fine tuned without dragging but being dragged by a current or wind. For any jigging halfway down to the bottom , this idea is useless and a good way to get to see your friendly local physical therapist .

Yes it may be a different kind of jigging , but jigging none the less. Not really. There is a fairly long rubber band,sort of like a very weak snubber between the weight and the jigs. the weight drags over the bottom and the jigging just stretches and contracts the rubber band

I vote for Sutton jigging spoons. I run them with a one pound weight on the bottom and three spoons off triangular swivels with each spoon about 2 feet away from the swivel. It needs to be lowered very slowly in order to prevent F-ups, but once down, they outfish gambler rigs for lakers. I wish somebody would start making those sutton spoons again. They are getting harder and harder to find.

Its crazy different. We spent one week out of Olcott and fished between the Somerset power plant ( the stack is down) and the bar. Everything we caught was between 10 and 30 feet down over 40 to 80 foot depth. We caught 3 nice Atlantics , a ton of Coho but only one King.

On May third there were trailer loads of them in Olcott

The only thing that could make noise is the cork screw ram at the kicker end and it will only get noisy if it is working under a tight angle or when it is really badly greased. When you try it out of the water though it will keep on trying to steer the boat and that might make a noise.

I just installed the exact same setup last fall so I would be able to do solo fishing. These setups are great! The price offered here is crazy low . A brand spanking new setup that with taxes costs $3200 new and now $1800. This is the best kicker remote control on the market, You hold the remote control in your hand and point your hand in the direction you want to go and push a button.The thing is like magic. Anybody with an EZsteer who is not happy with it , this is your chance to go 2 levels up for cheap!

Great

I have a few of those. They usually work well. They come in a kind of hard plastic type material and also in an aluminum version. The problem with the plastick ones is that after a number of years they may get brittle and crack The aluminum ones are much better. The aluminum ones are often the same black color as the plastic.

I would get rid of the EZsteer and have hydraulics on the kicker. It is so much nicer to know that your stuff works without surprises. That way you can go fish without worries

Yes. Just have a good look at how zinger11 has his angled toward the main engine.

I do think that it matters, because it makes the bar longer and exposes it to more strain, while also causing it to pick up debris in the water. You should position the EZsteer as shown in the picture posted by Zinger11. He found the sweet spot for the length of the bar and experimented with the hookup height. Also, the outboard should move move freely around with little resistance. because the harder it is for the bar to push the outboard back and forth, the more things will go wrong. There is a bolt on the outboard that tightens or loosens the resistance. Make sure everything is clean and well lubricated. The angle of the connector on the kicker is important because it allows you to make the width of the radius adjustable thereby allowing you to make the radius on the main en engine and the kicker the same or close to it.

Do you always have the outboard connection upside down?

I see what you are trying to do. With the EZsteer connection in the original position the outboard does not move back and forth quite as much as the main engine, but I suspect that by moving the connection that far down and out it will move way too much. So much so that the bar may come apart. A possible temporary solution may be changing the angle of the EZsteer attachment on the kicker so that instead of it sticking straight out of the back of the kicker it is angled about 20 to 30 degrees toward the main engine. this changes the push and pull a lot.

I would get rid of the (not so) EZsteer system and replace it with a hydraulic ram that is fed from your main hydraulic system so it will get its directions from the auto pilot.