rolmops

130?

I'll take them for $120

I don't really know what sites he is on

The other day I visited Rodhog and he told me that he is selling his boat. I was flabbergasted. We were standing right next to this extremely well kept baby of his and he told me that he had originally thought of maybe getting a slip this year, but seeing that it is the middle of August and his boat had not been in the water yet even after putting fresh bottom paint on it, he and his wife decided that the boat no longer is what they really want. It is a 2004 and standing next to it, it looks like a 2025. Extremely well kept and not a spec of dirt or dust on it. He advertised it on a few boards and had the usual flood of scammers and low ballers contact him. It made him very wary. Anybody who knows Rodhog knows that he is a very straight shooter. He wants somewhere around $45000 which makes it practically a give away. Any charter captain who wants a dream boat for his business should jump on this. He has not advertised the boat on this website yet, but since it is shown elsewhere he may not have to. The boat sits on the trailer next to his house.

The meat thing is a bit tricky. Lately I have had good results with very thin long strips stuck on the hook of tournament flies. It seems to work best just before sunrise when the fly/strip is behind a large reflective whitish flasher on a dipsy a bit above the thermocline

There is another thing. That is the remote control cables. Because the outboard/kicker sits behind the transom, there is a problem with the cables being squeezed between the outboard and the transom and the cables get bent up at he outboard connection. The traditional solution -a full circle loop in the cable- does not help enough. What does help is making sure that the kicker, when raised, is above the transom and instead of the circle loop in the cables,they should be tied along the top of the transom until about 2or 3 feet away from the kicker at which point they should veer toward the kicker with enough spare cable so they up going straight toward the kicker with room to maneuver. That way, they will not get squashed when the kicker is raised.

The production date is either heat pressed into the side of the battery or it has a sticker with that date. The sticker thing is a bit tricky ,because it can also mean the last date that the battery was charged. The heat pressed number is the date when the battery was made.

Started late, 9.30 and with just a little bit of free time to spend, I decided to fish inshore. I dropped just 2 lines in 75 feet of water right in the middle of huge bait balls . One magnum northern king ,black with a silver herring bone pattern at 65 feet down and one rednosed wobbler at fifty. The wobbler took 2 medium kings while the northern king got a skippy and a 20+pounder all within 2 and a half hours. Mostly I'm still learning to use the auto pilot and the influence even small things like a new bimini has on direction control. All fish were set back and it was done so fast that there were no floaters. By 12.30 the boat was cleaned up and tied up again in its slip.

Battery life is limited as we all know. This doesn’t seem to matter to stores that sell them. This June, in a Napa store, a sales associate told me that Napa has one year old batteries sitting on the shelves despite the fact that a three year lifespan of a battery is normally acceptable. They still have to sell them at full price even though it has lost 35% of its life expectancy. make sure to check the production date before purchasing.

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I had one on mine. A 9.9 not because it needs the power to troll, a six horse would be enough, but because a kicker also doubles as the emergency engine to get you home. You will need a kicker bracket and there are some things that are important on that end. Because you have to bend over the stern to pull it up or down you should go with a bracket for a 35 horse not a 9.9 horse. Even so it will be hard to pull up. Second is the angle of the stern. It is important to be able to pull the kicker up to the engine being above the transom ,or it may bump up against the back of the stern, while you also must be able to have it in the water deep enough . Because of above mentioned angle you cannot use a tiller , unless you have have one that can hold both remote and tiller controls and you just fold the tiller handle back. The 191V has an I/O so you may be able to use EZ-steer although at least in my opinion they are a pain in the neck. An alternative would be a Garmin Auto pilot which is fantastic. Some people however set the kicker straight backward and steer with the main unit doubling as a rudder. The good length for your tiller would be an extra long shaft with the 25 inch shaft or the Evinrude/Johnson which is 28 inches long. On another note. If you are not on a huge lake, you can sidestep all of these problems by getting an electric trolling motor with a real long shaft. You can just screw it to the top of the stern board and steer by hand. I have even seen one that was jerry rigged to the main engine (somehow screwed on to it) without the shaft. That is certainly a lot cheaper. I hope this helps. Good Luck.