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Everything posted by Sk8man
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I didn't include the paddle to lure leader in the post above and Tyee Tanic is right and it is exactly what I do. Often for the Finger Lakes I use 30 lb ahead of the paddle and and lighter fluoro toward the lure.down to 10-12 lb test (no kings there). The exception is a fly which I tie with 50 lb mono regardless of location.
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I should think you'd want much more backing than 450 feet if running from boards especially
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I don't think anyone would say blowback is not an issue per se but there are varying degrees of what is considered an issue. You make valid points and they are good considerations. On the other hand how much of the year do you run riggers at 150 ft? Is handling 16-20 lb weights throughout the season worthwhile on a small boat? the 12-16 is a good general reference point for Lake O and especially on larger boats and the things I mentioned are to be considered as additional ones such that a decision can be made based on multiple sides of an issue.
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The 50 lb mono (or some use 40 -50 lb fluoro referred to above is the fly that is run behind the dipsy. The leader between the attractor (e.g. spin doctor or flasher) is usually 40 -50 lb mono or fluoro. Fuoro has much less stretch than mono but sometimes folks run stretchable snubbers to provide some stretch. I don't use them anymore and use Big Game mono instead. Yes the mono does provide some degree of stretch and in my view is helpful especially with larger heavier fish like kings.
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There are multiple ways to set up any of the common rigs used to catch salmon and trout. There is no "one and only" best setup. A lot of it is based on experience and results; often of trial and error use. Commonly fluorocarbon is used for leaders and not primarily as a mainline although it could be. On downriggers people usually use monofilament as their main line and fluorocarbon for their leader for spoons and stickbaits as it is thought to be less visible under water and slightly stiffer without much stretch. People used to use lower pound test mono main;lines but now use 30-40 lb commonly because the waterfleas have a harder time adhering to the lines of larger diameter as well as smooth surfaces. Because king salmon inhabit Lake O reel capacity is important as they can peel out hundreds of yards heading from the south shore to Canada Often 30-40 lb test mono is used with a 15-25 lb test fluoro leader varying length according to preference and what lure is being run, and for what species targeted. Lighter leaders may be used in early Spring for brown trout for example. I normally use a 20-25 ft leader with a #8 Spro barrel swivel between the mono main line and the leader and a solid ring ball bearing snap swivel (with a rounded end on snap like Duolok snaps). For dipsy setup commonly 40-65 lb braid is used perhaps early in the season prior to the appearance of waterfleas which makes its use difficult to say the least. Dipsy rigs are usually either 7 or 19 strand stainless steel wire (usually 1,000 ft so again large capacity reel advised) for main line and either a mono or fluoro leader from it OR an attractor such as a flasher or Spin Doctor without leader follows the dipsy with a fly on a very sport 50 lb mono or fluoro, or spoon on a longer leader. If a leader is run it is usually heavier lb test (25 lb. up). You'll see the braid main lines used more commonly with leadcore or copper set-ups. Hope this answers your question.
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A number of manufacturers make the duo lok type snaps and they label the sizes slightly differently (e.g. the numbers) Depending on where you get them I would look to see that the # test is appropriate (if labeled) and that they aren't the flimsier wire.. I have mentioned above the Spro #8 barrel swivel between the main line and fluoro leader. That is what I use for many things as it fits through the eyes of rods OK The #10 is smaller and fine for light mono but the eyelet is very small so it is clumsy at best and impossible at worst to tie knots with heavier lines.
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Frogger has it right as he is another of us "old school dinosaurs" but in a younger body. A couple additional thoughts to consider: Snaps and swivels are not all the same, and they give different results as well. Note the snap swivels in your package pic for example. They are basically coast lock type snap swivels with a very slight "V" at the front of the snap. Other swivels can also have a much more pronounced V at the snap. That particular thing influences the action of the lure (especially stick baits) by tightening or restricting the back and forth "wobble" of the lure. At very fast speeds it may also allow solid body sticks to turn on their side. If you go the snap route a Duo Lock snap with a very rounded snap face is a better choice as it allows the lure to wobble back and forth without as much constriction. A Spro #8 barrel swivel (55 lb test but very small and will go through most rod eyes) can be added as Frogger mentioned and it helps keep line twist to a minimum and sometimes may head off debris from forming on the lure itself. Another aspect to the tying straight of the leader to the lure is the use of a loop at the knot so that the stickbait (especially) can freely move back and forth and which can give it a different action than tying and cinching up the knot tight. These things mentioned may seem minor byt they can sometimes make a large difference in results. A lot of time jointed stick baits will run fine with swivel snaps but solid body ones seem more affected by both speed and the use of a snap. While on the subject of swivels it is a good idea to always use SOLID ring swivels NOT the split ring type as the line knot can nest in the separation area and with a large heavy fish potentially cut the line. Hope this helps in your quest P.S. Duo lock type snaps have various manufacturers and some use softer wire than others and are not as strong and can open up easier leading to potential lure loss. The hard wire ones are best and try to use the smallest but strongest that you can get away with for the lure used.
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I believe that perhaps we may be misunderstanding each other. I agree with your last post but I did not interpret the article the same way you did.I saw what he was saying as a caution regarding snap judgment to isolate based on unclear development of situations based on emotional reaction rather than data based decisions. It was an appeal to reason over emotion, high anxiety or panic reactions without clear data to base it on and I agree with that. The current trajectory of this situation does demand that we closely monitor, isolate where possible, and use common sense about being in crowd situations etc. The school closings are more complex than that and it isn't just some "sappy" emotional connection to feeding children it is a very real set of complicated circumstances requiring good judgement at the locus of the school. For example it may be very premature for a school in the hills of Montana to close up at this point when there isn't a clear and present threat at this point in the particular area.
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I thought for once I was in agreement with you at least regarding prepping. Your response to that letter makes little sense, but hospitals and medical personnel will be severely overwhelmed as they were already dealing with high levels of flu etc. The closing of schools is a highly complicated multi-dimensional problem because of the need for supervision at home, and for many especially in poor urban or rural areas the children's meals are provided in the schools. Not everyone in our society is able to afford, purchase or stock up on necessities of life or perhaps feed their children at home. The specific creation of shortages of appropriate masks for medical personnel through hoarding or in some cases stealing from supplies severely adds to the problem. People react to stress in very different ways and some not with reason or calmness looking at data or facts. A lot of this is a high anxiety or panic reaction to things on top of a valid problem that in all probability will get worse before getting better.Viruses, epidemics, and pandemics have acted that way in the past and this situation is probably no different. I think that was the main thrust of that letter not someone begging about holding events. This situation however should be a "wake up call" to the US in particular, in terms of allowing the Chinese to manufacture the majority of our medications just - from a national security standpoint alone. It also points up the need to personally prepare to the degree possible for these sorts of situations ahead of time because other things even more pervasive can occur such as a shutting down of the electric grid for example. Being prepared as much as possible is a personal and community responsibility and it shouldn't have taken this situation to have initiated it. Unfortunately we as a society are pretty much reactionary rather than proactive and it has been just a matter of time before it came home to bite us in the butt. Hopefully when this situation attenuates folks will have a little fire under their butts to prevent the panic response next time. .....but I doubt it....something called "human nature" I guess. This current situation does point up the federal government's incompetence, and lack of preparedness for a large scale emergency situation, (also witness the previous hurricanes too). Bureaucrasies are the last vestiges of society to change so don't look for solutions anytime soon. Ultimately it is up to us to prepare, help others, cooperate, and not be part of the problem, and do what we can to minimize adverse effects in our immediate area of control. I have been expecting something like this for the past ten years and have prepared along the way for it. I didn't have to empty any store shelves, store up on water and necessities because I already have done so gradually in anticipation and expectation of just such an event (or worse). Hopefully it will be a learning event for most people and folks will realize that preparedness of (various types) significantly reduces anxiety and panic.
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Just another couple things to think about . The decision regarding the size of weights also depends to some degree on the size/weight of boat as well. For large heavy boats a sixteen pound weight may be the way to go. For small boats a 10 or 12 lb weight may be appropriate. Something that hasn't been mentioned is the stress on the gunwales and transom. On smaller lighter boats with narrow aluminum gunwales the smaller weights may be desirable. Lifting a 16 lb weight while bent over in waves can be a problem depending on your physical situation too and if you run three riggers you are adding nearly 50 lbs to the back of the boat. On a big boat it doesn't matter but after previously fishing a 13 ft Whaler for 22 years I can tell you it does matter in a small boat. Blowback can be a problem at speed with lighter weights the deeper you go but you can also adjust according to marks on your fishfinder and/or slow up a bit drop down and still be into the fish. Some folks seem to think that having your downrigger wires straight down is critical to success but there are other things to consider as well. P.S. The shape of the weight is really more important than the weight in most cases. Sharks and torpedoes outperform other shaapes.
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The public launch at Sodus Point is free. As Mike said Hughes charged $10 the last few years. There is a money box near the building that has envelopes where you write down your name and description of your vehicle and drop in the box with your money.
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for sale : usa CANCELED!!! FISHING TACKLE FLEA MARKET BY FINGER LAKES TROLLERS
Sk8man replied to gasman2438's topic in Classifieds - Buy, Sell, Trade or Rent
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for sale : usa CANCELED!!! FISHING TACKLE FLEA MARKET BY FINGER LAKES TROLLERS
Sk8man replied to gasman2438's topic in Classifieds - Buy, Sell, Trade or Rent
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It is a good idea anytime with any size boat actually. I lost a good friend (also was a charter captain) during a summer when he was fishing alone and apparently went to take a wizz and fell overboard striking his head (no life jacket on). They found him the next day in about 8 ft of water. Boating can be some serious stuff and taking precautions is important and there is even less room for error in cold weather.
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You will be happy with either option Unless you are trolling a lot of high speed and real deep water (e.g. 100 ft plus on riggers) 10 or 12 lb weights will be just fine)
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check your other post
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Hughes Marina near Pultneyville would be nearly a straight shot north on 21 then turn onto 104 east, then take Townline Road north and turn left (west) on old 104. Hughes will be on your right. Sodus Point is another option either the public launch just north of Arney's Marina on Rt. 14 (straight shot from Lyons) just before entering Sodus Point, or the launch at the Coast Guard station near the lighthouse near the beach.
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Sodus 3/12/2020
Sk8man replied to Fjaq's topic in New York Fishing Reports - Lake Ontario (South Shore)
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