Sk8man

Both are too small (capacity) for using with copper. The 27's are often used for downriggers with mono or braid.

Kempie hit on the critical part of it. I've used Canon wire as well as Mason etc. with good results. The main problem is not the wire itself at that 150 or 200 lb test it is the terminus connection. There are many ways to do it some of which don't use crimping but I've always crimped and have never had a problem but care needs to be taken in the specific way the crimping is done and to a degree the size and type of crimp used. In my view this is much more important than the brand of wire used. I have one downrigger that still has the original Canon wire on it from 1985 (looks brand new but with a couple feet of wire missing due to re-terminating over time). Muchof the time problems relate to using the wrong size crimp sleeve when terminating. If the inside diameter of the crimp sleeve is too large the compression on the wire can be uneven and ineffective. Also if the walls of the crimp sleeve are too thin and then pinched at the very ends the wire can bend back and forth under weight especially when dangling out of the water during wave action and possible spinning of the weight can contribute to separation of the strands of wire or actually break at that point. If the correct diameter sleeve with thicker walls is used and a crimp is applied such there is one near (but not at) each of the ends but on opposite sides of the sleeve you shouldn't have problems with it. As I recall a size number 4 or 5 black sleeve (Jann's Netcraft) is the one for the common 150 lb SS wire.

Landshark makes a good point......regardless of what you use for backing or leaders etc. with walleyes you almost have to think of the board situation as using bobbers as potential indicators. I always watch the boards and rod tips very closely for clues about what is going on out there . A lot of time the boards will dip down at the back end and bob up and down slightly in between the waves with a small fish or one that is conserving energy by just riding along when they should be a little bit slack at that time. This is especially evident when pulling something that is fairly steady through the water like a worm harness rather than a diver or something with erratic action. They can be a little better detected when braid is used because of the lack of stretch.

30 lb braid such as Power Pro as backing (small diameter yet very strong and little to no stretch so light hits show up better than on mono). If running from boards replace any plastic pins or releases with metal ones (e.g. Calumet marine has them for the Church boards) because the braid will cut into them over time. If not using the full 5 colors consider using small rubber bands such as those used for girls hair found in most department stores and should break easily with a decent walleye hit unless the fish just swims along with the lure in his mouth

Put it on one of those orange plastic wheels that you roll up electric cords on. Faster than other options but two person solution

OH.....was she tying a knot....I didn't notice

Just wear a helmet as you approach her

I'm with Nick. they have to be nuts not to recognize the true value of the marina. Much of this is about downstate interests controlling things statewide and upstate is always on the short end of the stick. Unfortunately we have a totally corrupt government.

wishinfishin Thanks bud.

Cool report and it sure is great seeing the old school Hemlock spinner with sawbelly... one of my derby "go to's" and those Spin N glows sure put a hurting on the lakers don't they? I am also still impressed with the fact that we can share this info on here vs. the "old days" where folks "guarded" everything and the best you could do was try to interpret or read between the lines of CB communications I know.....I'm a dinosaur Good luck out there.

I just did a preliminary search regarding perception of color in fish and came up with an interesting article that may be of interest: (Although it uses fly fishing as an example it is also relevant here) http://midcurrent.com/science/fish-eyesight-does-color-matter/

The article is an appropriate one and it hints at the central issue when Seneca is discussed and that is "complexity". There are folks that believe that the lake is dying and others who suggest that there is nothing wrong whatsoever ....that it is only a "cyclical" minor downturn. I think the truth lies somewhere in the middle. There is a complex change or set of changes going on out there; some of which may be natural processes (e.g. gradual eutrophication or gradual change in the type of lake water/underlying bottom structure such as siltation and vegetation structure associated with changes in warming of the water and/or chemical structure such as availability of bio-limiting factors such as nitrogen or phosphates). The article mentions numerous additional man introduced factors which may hasten the eutrophication process as well as other things which may be offshoot issues and theintroduction of invasives with yet unknown ramifications . Despite the dire forecasts Seneca is far from dead and I do remember folks pronouncing Lake Erie dead only to rise from the "ashes" and become a very viable fishery. It also does appear that some form of change needs to occur inthe way the periphery of the lake is used to curb obvious run off such as fertilizer and animal waste from farming, the introduction of pesticides and nitrogen containing chemicals such as lawn fertilizers as well as pest control products containing toxins known to kill fish. I see a lot of this same thing on Canandaigua Lake as well and it is frustrating as well as dangerous as some of these chemicals or their constituents remain in the drinking water and are not taken out by the treatment process. Seneca Lake does not "suck" for fishing but it has become more difficult to fish and especially for folks unfamiliar with the lake and the habits of the fish. Changes are certainly occurring in the lake but I don't believe anyone yet has a handle on exactly what is going on out there or the potential impact over the next few years let alone the future. For those folks unfamiliar with the lake I'd suggest doing a charter with either Nick http://www.reelstoriesfishingcharters.com/index.html or Sean http://www.reelhookedup.com to get a good feel of the lake and some tips to improve your fishing experience.

Pap they are pretty solid downriggers I have a couple but without the autostop feature. Unlike some folks I am a pretty patient guy at least with fishing stuff and they are slow but I like that as it gives me time to deal with other stuff while they are coming up and I never worry about them screwing up because they are coming up too fast. I just have the drag adjusted on them so that if they come up to the tip of the rigger they just slide and the slight noise alerts me and I hit the off switch ....not a big deal. I will say however that you shouldn't use the weights that are heavier than 10 lbs as Cannon later went to a heavier duty motor. I've had two of my riggers (that are 10A's) since I bought them brand new in 1985 and they still function perfectly after thousands of hours of use. One of them still has the original wire on it With that said I think $150 - $ 175 is a fair price for one still in the box. It would be a decent rigger even if you used it primarily for walleyes etc. with lighter weights. I use swivel bases on all my riggers (all are the telescoping boom type)

I give up