Sk8man

I think Angling Addict may be right...harmonics may be at fault.... as the CHIRP frequencies I believe would be in the upper ranges from the Fish Hawk and signals that occur at multiples of a given frequency can create "harmonics" and "mimic" that original frequency or parts of it in a receiving unit. So in this case it wouldn't be the placement of the transducer or units but the nature of the signal itself that is causing the problem.

The Fish hawk runs at 70 khz and I think that frequency was selected specifically to provide separation from the other common depth finder frequencies used. I think that under most normal circumstances you shouldn't have any problems in that regard. I'm not so sure about operating very close to another boat using the same Fish Hawk unit though whether some sort of interference might occur with the signal as it would be operating at the same frequency.

Cool.

Slammin I think I'd want some detailed pics of the INSIDE of the boat before pulling the trigger.....given the reference to animal damage ....could be severe.

Best wishes for a full recovery Jason

You might want to use your own judgment on setting the drag though

I didn't mean to infer that you pull lines Rick I think we know better than that

A couple things strike me as worth mentioning here just as food for thought regarding the issue of how much backing you have. The running the chute vs,. board setup issue is a good point and some others to think about are; The gear ratio of your reel becomes very important in this situation as does the drag itself and how you use it. Many if not most of the aggressive salmon will stop briefly within a hundred yards or so if they feel increasing tension on the line (I know there are exceptions and I've had them). If you are using a reel with say a 20 lb drag and a gear ratio of 6 to 1 it can be a very different situation than having a drag of 15 lbs and a gear ratio of 3 or 4 to 1 in terms of the amount of control you MAY have over taking line back when provided even the most brief opportunity. I know some folks feel that the drag should be set and then left alone under all circumstances (and it may make a lot of sense for charters for example) but if you have a smooth drag that is familiar to you it can used as an effective weapon against the fish by making him use as much energy as possible to tire him out quickly (especially if they will be released) as there is a point below the breaking strength of line that the fish will be working and pulling against the boat itself rather than just the drag and this is where things can be exploited (not for the average charter customer though ). Rick mentions another very important thing that is often ignored and that is using the boat in any way possible against the fighting fish and I know it is an unpopular view on here to pull lines and chase down a big fish but sometimes it is necessary (e.g. a tournament where you don't want to take chances) and can also be helpful in the short backing situation as well.

Just make sure you get the new one with the RED screen on the display. A lot of places advertise the X4D bu it is the non-Blue Tooth model without surface speed and that has the BLUE screen

I agree Brian and That is exactly what I was hinting at Big

They are all a PIA to untangle

True but not everyone viewing things here is a highly experienced charter guy either and hopefully the discussion will generate some increased interest in trying different approaches for some or to give a little backdrop to others new to the sport.

Bloodrun SeaFlee 30 lb here both environments

Just a comment about big boards vs. inlines for folks that possibly haven't used either option yet. - The big boards are nice as far as pulling control goes and especially with heavier setups (e.g. longer coppers and cores) providing you have a boat with room that will allow you to locate a mast forward or on top or sides of top if hard top and anchored real well to drag them with. They may also pull better in rough water depending on the particular boards. The inlines are best for shorter setups and toplines or small dipseys as they are a bit easier to run in and out near the shoreline (e.g. for browns etc.) and are often faster to bring in in heavy traffic adjustments. They also take up much less room in the boat and are less expensive for the budget conscious (unless like some of us where you end up with a bunch of them ). They each have their place in the arsenal and strengths and weaknesses as well. Although a purist may go with the Albright or another knot for connections I have never had a Spro #8 swivel failure regardless of knot used and they don't require gluing etc. and Rob is right cut don't re-tie those ends

I thought he was referring to attaching leaders to the copper