wet the net

I just installed this spring a Dual Pro Professional Series three bank, 15 amps per bank. I love it. It does everything you are looking for including putting the power to the battery that needs it the most. I have it charging two trolling batteries and my starting battery. It is big and heavy and you need the right spot to mount it.

First of all, sorry for posting this in the wrong area. Thought I was in "this old boat". But anyway, thanks everyone for the responses. I am going to reverse the hookups. Sounds like that might be my problem. Also will try just using the clutch brake on the decent...................that makes a lot of sense. Tight Lines

I just bought a used Big Jon downrigger. Its an older version, I think its called a captains pack. Anyway I am having two issues with it: 1. When I lower the ball (10 lb) it goes down really fast even though I have the black nut on the spool tightened all the way. As an example one quick on and off on the down button allows six feet. If I hold the down bottom a few seconds it really takes off and continues to decent five or six feet after Its turned off. 2. When I retrieve the ball in the up position, the little red button on the side (breaker I think) trips. It takes a moment or two before I can reset it to continue to lift the ball. It will do this just about on every retrieve and maybe twice on a long retrieve. Anyone have any idea what the issues might be? I have a plug wired to the battery with a 25 amp inline fuse on the positive lead at the battery.

Tying knots with heavy flouro is tough. The link below is the best knot I've found for tying heavy flouro leaders, Works great for the swivel end and the snap end. Takes some practice but gets easy to tie and holds strong. http://leetauchen.com/lees_leader_knot.pdf

rabhunt Sounds like a great night. Congrats, Where on the lake is Bear Creek?

I would be happy if it was inland lakes only.

Is there any discussion about starting the season earlier accross the entire state?

huh?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qS7nqwGt4-I

I heard a speaker at a seminar last week say " I'd rather have the wrong lure color in the right location, depth and speed than have the right lure color in the wrong location, depth and speed. Made sense to me that the most important factor is location depth and speed.............color of lure is down the priority list. But its fun to talk about colors and lures.

Thanks Double F I don't have down riggers. So I would have to add some weight to the spoons. Come on Spring...................I can only organize my gear so many times........cabin fever.

djj717 How are you running the stingers? I assume off boards. Are you using in line weights? Split shots?

There is a nice thread on another site OGF covering this topic. The walleye guys do it and they call it speed setting dipsy's Here is thread from a guy called Workdog. Hope this helps: This is how I troll with dipsies, three or four to a side. I don’t in any way claim to be an expert here, but this works for me, and I can speed-set dipsies out at any speed above 1.5. All my dipsy rods are the same length (8') and weight (makes it easier to read the rods). My reels have line counters so I know exactly how far each dipsy is spread apart. I use 50 lb PowerPro for no line stretch. Their no stretch makes it easier to read your rods and trip your dipsies when you need to. I use only the big dipsies (size 1) with rings that I glue on (use “ShoeGooâ€). One dipsy size makes it easier to manage setback, and I need to git’r-on-down in the deeper water off Geneva to Conneaut. I use a snubber on the back of the dipsy with a 10 foot leader of fluoro. I number my rods, starting at stbd forward with number 1, stbd aft is number 4 with 8 rod set up, finishing up with number 8 on the port forward rod. I put the same number on each corresponding rod holder tube, and mark the number on the dipsy itself with a white pen (all my dipsies are black). Stick on numbers come off easily, so I use a dab of clear epoxy over the numbers—that will NOT come off. The numbering scheme helps avoid the dipsy rods being placed in the wrong order. The rod holders are about 9" apart on a track. I have mine set up pointing straight out, slightly above horizontal. Some folks will say to point the rods at slightly different elevations or angles to get a greater rod tip spread, with the forward rod tip the highest, but I don't have a problem with the rods pointed out at the same elevation. The inside dipsy is in the aft rod holder, the outside dipsy is in the forward-most rod holder. Using the same make rods for all your dipsies, and the same line and type of lure per side, makes the rods easier to read. When the dipsies are running, the rod tips will each be bent about the same, so, if you pick up some trash or a small fish on one of the rods, the tip will be out of formation with the others on that side. This will be more noticeable with three or four rods per side versus just 1 or 2. When you initially set up, put the outside rod out first, then work towards the inside. Your dipsy settings would be #1, #2, #3, #4 (where #4 would be) if fishing 4 rods per side. I used to use #1, #2 ¼, and #3 ½ settings for 3 rods (#3 ½ is the outside rod and #1 is on the inside). The outside rod should typically be set 8-16 feet further out than the next inner-most rod. This will give you separation so your dipsies won't tangle. When I first set out new dipsies, I adjust the keel weights to get an even spread among the four on a side. Then, when they are running right I glue the keel weights in place so they never move again (smear Shoe Goo in the groove around the keel weight). I got my line out settings from Romanack's Bigwater book. I made a cheat card in PowerPoint with all my settings in 5 depth bands. When I mark fish on the locator at a certain depth, I use the appropriate program to get the dipsies down to cover a 10 foot swath of water. I laminated the cheat sheet and use it on the boat. Anyone setting out rods can put them out and, using my numbers, be pretty confident that they are not going to tangle dipsies. So, if I’m marking fish in a specific band of water, I tell the rod guys to use the appropriate Program number. Speed Setting Dipsies: Say you get hit on a middle or outside rod. If you can speed set them there is no need to bring in all the rods on that side. Since the rods were set out with the outter rods a little further out than the inner ones, if you get something on one, that dipsy will usually pull up out of formation from the rest. Or, if you manually unset the dipsy, the lead lengths will usually allow the dipsy to avoid the others as it trails towards the back of the boat. I always leave the back of the boat open to bring in and set dipsies. When you set out a dipsy, let it out on the opposite back corner of the boat from which side it will eventually swim at. You will let the dipsy back at a rate just fast enough that the dipsy doesn't get behind the snubber and leader. If you let the dipsy out too fast, the leader (to the spoon) will wrap around the dipsy and the dipsy will either not swim correctly or not unset correctly when it gets hit. Conversely, you don't want to let the dipsy out too slowly. If you do, the dipsy will dig down to its running depth and tangle lines inside of its normal running position. That would be very bad. If let out properly, the dipsy stays above its normal running position as it’s being let out. When you're within 10-20 feet of the let back distance, move the rod over to the side the dipsy will run at and put the rod into the holder as you reach the correct distance back. The dipsy will slide over and drop down into proper formation with the other dipsies. This works. Give it a try. To minimize errors, nobody on my boat plays with dipsy keel weight settings but me. Also, by numbering the rods, I ensure that nobody places a rod in the wrong holder. That would also be very bad. Some dipsy keel weights unset easily causing tangle problems. That is why I glue the keel weights. Other: Often times, with the fish few and far between, when we hit a Walleye I can quickly turn back around to get back on that pod of fish. You can make fairly tight turns with those dipsy rods without tangles. Just ensure you are going straight when you are setting them out. You cannot turn near as well when you have board rods out (particularly big boards). I've caught as many as 24 Walleyes within 200 feet of each other in a day (included several fish over 9 lbs in the same pod). A GPS with MOB and trace back feature is worth its weight in gold.

Take a look at Cisco's before you buy. They have really tough tube holders that have infinate adjustments. They also have a very high quality cradle rod holder especially designed for dipsy fishing. They also have the best price on tracks. I have them and they are awesome.

Thanks everyone for your replies. I appreciate it.

Hi Guys I plan to try spring brown trout fishing at Lake O. I have a couple of questions about timing and location: * Is the fishing good around Wilson and Olcott? I read a lot about further East but would like to limit the travel is possble * What is the earliest it starts? When does it peak? I would really appreciate any help. Thanks

Claremont7 You asked a fair and legitamate question. my response was not directed at you.