LakerTaker

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PAP- My gunnels are a bit wider than yours. I’m using standard 6” long tracks and the bolt hole spacing is 1.5”. I drilled pilot holes and used stainless steel screws into the gunnels. Very solid. The downrigger board is an aluminum extrusion and is the same on both sides. The risers slide in the track and tighten with tightening bolts. See pic of the underside of the Bert’s board. The Traxstech (Pursuit) board had the same mounting method. The traxstech board comes in 2 - 4ft sections which are joined by a plate underneath. You might be able to get away with a 4ft section on each side of your boat. I bought the third riser for each side from Big Papa Sportfishing Products. They have good pricing. When you buy a board, it usually comes with 2 risers. I’m sure Traxstech or Cisco would be willing to work with you to make what you need. I could also machine special mounts for you as needed. Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Thanks Tyee. A bit overkill, but it makes it safer for my kids. Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

That’s a great idea Tyee has. I did the same thing to my 16ft Sea Sprite 2 years ago. I waited until I found a 1/2 price deal on EBay for a Traxstech Board, and a friend gave me a Bert’s Board for the other side. I mainly wanted to replace the rails of my boat with usable lengths of downrigger boards to hold rod holders. My gunnels are narrower than a track section....but work fine for mounting 6” riser tracks. Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

The two words mean the same thing. Easier to say gunnel. Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

One thing you could do is mount rails (tubes) to your gunnel. Rails have a smaller mount footprint. Then you are free to mount rail-mounted rod holders or rail-mounted tracks. Redundant and perhaps expensive, yes, but allows more versatility and might look better. How long are your gunnels?.

I use the front upgraded black snapper releases after losing 2 boards (they don’t float for very long....or at least I couldn’t find them). You have to look for a good deal on them.....some people want too much $. Franks and Northwoods Outlet has them for $11.99. I paid $9.99 in-store at Northwoods Outlet a few years back. Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

Sorry for the delay posting pics. I wasn’t able to find them. They might have been deleted. Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

I ran big boards years ago....and now only run inlines. When I salmon and/or trout troll I always have 1 or 2 inlines off to the side with leadcore or snap weights to pick up fish higher in the water column. I’m not always successful, but I do it anyway with a single spoon or a fly and flasher combo. When running multiple boards it’s nice to have vertical rod trees to keep your rods separated and forward in your spread. I bought one set of tattle flag offshore boards and one set of non-tattle flag and a buddy made tattle flags using wire and springs from our local hardware store. I also have some church boards. I would recommend, however, you use the factory tattle flags. I also have LED Board lights that are awesome at night. The inlines are a lot easier to set up when fishing solo and adjusting them is easier when you run into boat traffic. Also I feel it’s easier to know that you have a fish on instead of depending on a release from the big boards. Franks Great Outdoors has had the best price for offshore brand board kits for several years. Cabelas sells a knock-off brand, but I prefer to support Offshore Tackle. Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

My new gunwales stood up a little higher than the original, but it wasn’t very noticeable when I was done. And like I said, rock solid. I could pull myself into the boat with the rod holders and there was no movement in the gunwales. I cut them to fit. I will find pics tonight. Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

I had a 14ft Sea Nymph Deep V with a side console and 25hp. It had gunwales like yours, almost full length. I removed the gunwale boards and replaced them with 2x6 treated, cut to the proper shape of the boat and wrapped in marine carpet. After re-wiring the boat, I supported the stringer (attachment points) locations with smaller boards and spray foam. I then pre-drilled each attachment point and used stainless screws to secure the gunwale boards. They were solid as a rock!!!! That’s what I would recommend...and you could use manual or electric downriggers that way using a track system or direct mount to the board. No need to get underneath...just use stainless screws. I will try to find pictures of my rebuild and will post them later when I get to a computer. Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

Totally awesome! Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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Is this 36 Volt? Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United