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Everything posted by smallboat

  1. For what its worth, I don't like 2lb foam for anything but the lightest application for flotation. If you want to add to the strength and integrity of an area, plus add stiffness and flotation, go with 4 lb. urethane foam. 4 lb closed cell foam will not absorb water like open cell foams. I buy my supplies from US Composites in Florida. They have every type of polyester, epoxy and vinylester resin, cloths, matts and pourable foams. They are price competitive and very good to work with. www.uscomposites.com
  2. I agree with Frogger. I would want to know the cause before making a repower decision. A 1989 boat is pre ethanol especially if you were buying fuel at a marina. Real good possibility of ethanol dissolving any gunk or "varnish" that built up on the inside of the tank causing motor failure. I blew the heads off of two 454's for that reason. Boats of that era were also not designed with the weight of four stroke power in mind. I have seen too many boats repowered with four stoke outboards where the top of the motor well now sits only 4" above the water. A 225 HP two stroke will typically weigh 500 to 525 lbs. A 200 HP two stroke will weigh around 450 lbs. A 225 HP four stroke will weigh close to 650 lbs. Based on the boat, I would go with a rebuild of the 225 you have. 150 is a little on the low side for HP in MHO.
  3. I have run into the same situation (pun intended) several time at both the Oak and Olcott. It can be quite dangerous. Unfortunately, boats under oars (or paddles) are not required to display running lights at night. They are however, required to carry a flashlight or lantern displaying a white light, that must be exhibited in sufficient time to avoid a collision with another vessel. It is their responsibility to show the correct light signal in time to avoid the collision. It may be the CG reg's but good luck with that defense if you hit someone not showing a white light.
  4. Looking for a place to store my 22' Crestliner indoors for the winter (November-April). Need to have in and out capability since I fish the Niagara all winter. If anyone knows of a spot, please let me know.
  5. I have 2 Talora TLA80MH2 dipsy rods. They are only 8', not 8'6' but they work well and I really like them.
  6. Sorry, but I have to call out incorrect information on this page. Wave height is measured from the top of the crest to the bottom of the trough of the adjoining wave. Measuring from a base line, flat calm for instance, to the top of a wave, is not wave height, it is amplitude. The NOAA buoy information should not be doubled to understand the actual wave height being measured since the readings of the buoys are measuring wave height as described above. Buoys travel up and down with the wave action and measure total vertical movement, not just amplitude. My experience is that many captains think they are in far bigger seas than they actually are and misinterpret wave period and wave steepness for bigger waves. Steep waves with a short period will seem far bigger than deep swells with a long period. Ocean swells of 6 feet with a long period pose little problems for many boats while 6 foot breaking waves with a short period will often been very dangerous for the same vessel.
  7. I have two TLA 80 MH-2 that I use as dipsy rods. Should be very similar, just 6" shorter. I really like them.
  8. Here is a simple trick that I have used with 5200 and also works great on construction adhesive (Pl Premium, Liquid nails etc.) Let the 5200 cure in the tip, the cartridge is aluminum so the caulk still in the tube will not cure . Slice the tip open length wise with a razor knife, pull out the cured caulk wrap the tip up with electrical tape and you're good to go. Works for me every time.
  9. One caution I would like to add is that if you have an aluminum boat, make sure the buss bars are isolated from any contact with the hull. A few years ago, I saw someone mount the backing plate on the positive buss bar with a screw that also touched one of the connections. He couldn't understand why everything was shorting out. As everyone has correctly advised, neat wiring to buss bars is the best way to route your wiring.
  10. One is already in place and operational at Fort Niagara. $8.00 to use the ramp.
  11. A couple of things to be aware of for your project. Very rare to find oak plywood made for exterior use which is why it delaminated. Oak plywood typically is a cabinet grade plywood with oak veneers on both skins with poplar interior plies and is not made using waterproof or exterior glues between them. Over time it will absolutely delaminate in a wet environment. Using a piece of mahogany is a good idea ( I assume it is 3/4" or thicker to handle to stress of the wheel). Mahogany has been used for many years for both structural and decorative parts of boats. Epoxy is excellent as a glue and coating but it is NOT UV resistant. If you use epoxy to coat wood exposed to the sun, it must be painted or coated with a spar type of varnish to protect it. It you don't, the epoxy will break down over time. Polyester resin, the type of resin typically used to build boat is UV resistant but does not bond as well to wood.
  12. NOAA. The map allows you to click in an individual station and check the real time wind and temp readings as well as past 24 hours. Also has links to Lake Ontario near shore and off shore forecasts. Pretty accurate. http://www.wbuf.noaa.gov/marine.htm
  13. There is a web site www.pure-gas.org that lists gas stations that sell ethanol free gas by state. They also have an app for your phone. Great if you are traveling to parts unknown...
  14. Soda blasting is the best way to go. I've had it done a couple of times in the past and it does the least amount of damage to the gel coat and gets the paint off quickly.
  15. Agree, Cisco are the best. Their tracks have the best finish by far. Since I already had Berts's rod holders, I use them in my Cisco tracks but changed out the thumb screws to Cisco's. Much better.
  16. Burrows, Attached is a link to a website for Thompson owners. It may give you a good starting place to find the spec's for your boat. Good Luck! http://thompsonboat.webs.com/howtoidyourboat.htm
  17. Sorry Trout Bum, you're right I wasn't clear. I was referring to Rockland. I lived about a half hour away at that time and went every years the show was in existence. It is an amazing show for its volume and quality. 3 Feathers is right, lots of charter captains to talk to as well as hunting guides. Lots to learn from them.
  18. I also have the same 597 ci hd di and 859 ci hd di but I don't share the same results. I like both units but especially the 859. I have no problem in deeper water picking up bait or fish although I have not tried to read them in depths greater than 300'. They both read well at high speed. You might want to check your installation, especially the location and leveling of your transducer. There is no question that using one of these units with an Airmar transducer will improve its performance over the stock Humminbird unit. I took my 597 off of my old boat an added it to my new rig when I bought it last year. The tech at the dealer installed both units and the performance of the 597 is much better than it was when installed on my last boat.
  19. I went to this show every year up until about 5 years ago. It is well worth the trip but very crowded on the week ends. One of the big differences between this show and most others is that many manufacturers such as Shimano, Penn, Diawa, etc; will have booths there. You can talk directly to the manufacturer's reps, see and discuss all of their new tackle. Lots of tackle dealers offering deals too. I recommend to go if you can.
  20. L&M is correct. It is an old Teleflex rotary system. He is also correct that the best way to handle this is to get a new head and cable system. Their web site will tell you how to measure for the correct cable length. I put one of these in a boat I built in the early 80's and from what I hear, it is still working fine.
  21. Unclepaul, I have also ordered from Jamestown many times in the past and they are an excellent company to do business with. They probably do carry some foam products, you can check them out. Foam is installed by mixing the two components together and pouring it into the hull. You need to work fast as the foam expands quickly. There is a lot of good information about pouring foam floatation on the web.
  22. You are correct, the main purpose of floatation is to keep the hull afloat after being swamped, holed or by any other means, you fill your boat with water. A big safety item. Foam flotation is required for all new boats under 22'. The big added benefit to this is foam flotation, properly installed will significantly increase the boat's stiffness. It will also quiet the hull. As previously mentioned in this thread, foam can, and often does, becomes waterlogged. If this happens, all kinds of bad results occur, the main one being a loss of floatation. You can avoid this by using the correct foam for this job. Many manufacturers use 2lb foam. Some even use an open cell foam that will absorb water like a sponge. These are cheap which is why they are used. Don't use 2 lb. foam even if it is closed cell. Use 4 lb., closed cell foam. It will not absorb water, will not become waterlogged and will add significantly to the stiffness of your hull. If you are looking for a supplier, I order foam, and other fiberglass/epoxy supplies on line. US Composites in Florida is excellent to deal with. Product are high quality and service is excellent. And they will provide advise. Good Luck with your project!
  23. Here are a few more comments I would like to suggest. The Marinco battery connects work OK but you need to watch for vibration loosening the blade connectors. Screw type connections are more secure and less likely to come loose. You need to be careful with a knife type switch. If your boat is an I/O or inboard and this switch is in the engine compartment, remember you have a real potential for gas vapors and these switches are not vapor proof. Sparks can cause real damage real fast. I have seen this first hand. If it is in the engine compartment, all switches and ignition parts need to be vapor or explosion proof.
  24. APB, Not sure how you boat is wire but that is a lot of wires on one post (too many IMHO). I don't like more than two wires on any battery post. Best way to wire to a hot post is to run all wires to a buss bar or fuse block, then a single wire (make sure it is the correct gauge for the load) to a battery switch then to the hot post. Turn the switch off at the end of the day.
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