Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 1lastweekend

  1. Great thanks! Anything you would like to trade for them? Thanks, Mike
  2. Remember at the end of the week last summer how nobody wanted to fight the fish on the copper?...LOL
  3. Ok sounds good. I just have the 1 plate with 2 rod holders, I tried to take 2 pics to show the rod holders up and down.
  4. I just read an article in Forbes posted earlier today that US citizens in Canada would be allowed to return home. So she should be able to fly/take a bus/train. See the second bullet. Good luck! https://www.forbes.com/sites/carlieporterfield/2020/03/18/will-americans-and-canadians-be-able-to-get-home-how-the-border-closure-will-actually-work/#54da83ff5a8e
  5. I have a few items I am looking to trade for some Angler's Pal rod holders. 1 TraxsTech fixed mount riser, 6"- TRADED 1 pair Big Jon downrigger rod holders with butterfly plate. These are the older "floating position" rod holders 1 pair RAM 10" tube rod holders, both with new T-handles- they tighten down good on the balls now... Looking for 10" SS Angler's Pal rod holders like in picture
  6. Yup you're probably right...I did text him but the number is wrong so I guessed at the last digit, the one he posted has too many digits...Oh well time to look for another boat!
  7. Scott I'll take those 2 clamp on rod holders...Let me know when is good for me to pick them up. Are you still in Webster? Thanks Mike
  8. I do it exactly like you do FF34...Drain all lake water out 1st then pull the manifold side hose and engine block side hose and fill until I see antifreeze coming out of the exhaust through the hub of the prop, and the brass plug hole on the side of the block and under the exh manifold.. This way I am sure that even if there's a little bit of water left in the block, its 95% antifreeze. Wicked Walleye I have never trusted using muffs to fill my engine block and exh manifold with AF, because a boat moving through the water forces raw water up through the leg with much more pressure than sitting still with muffs on. If I had to do it using antifreeze going up from the leg, I would definitely pull the thermostat as you did, but use a large bucket full of AF and run the prop in forward gear just above idle to stir up the AF. I would also fill from the top hoses into the exhaust manifold as a double check to make sure the system is full.
  9. Thanks I will have to get a few of those...That's the one piece I don't have yet.
  10. Here's what I came up with, bought a Cannon terminal end kit, and clipped off the wire from the Chamberlain then threaded the rigger wire through the hole in the Chamberlain. One less variable...
  11. That's a great idea, clipping the wire and running the DR cable through the space where the wire was...Thanks! I may try that with a rubber stop above the terminal end as you did...
  12. Thanks all for the great feedback. I think I will just try a Chamberlain stacker on the port side rigger to remove 1 variable from the equation...But its good to know my original setup would work as well. Mike
  13. I really like the performance of Chamberlain releases, and decided to try a couple inline with my riggers this year. On the port side I have to incorporate my FishHawk probe, and the pic below is what I think I will try. But I am concerned the wire clip on the Chamberlain could be the weak link. Anyone else run a setup like this, and how do you rig it if you do?
  14. ok yeah i got confused because you responded to my post! I send the duckman a PM... Thanks, Mike
  15. Ok I was interested in the riser, I just posted a pic of it above...I am looking for something to mount 2 rod holders and slide it into my Berts track for downrigger rod holders. Is that top plate adjustable or does it swivel? Thanks, Mike
  • Create New...