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sherman brown

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Everything posted by sherman brown

  1. I didnt get a light bullet but chose the new 280 grn power belt bullet thats longer and more pointed than other bullets. they are made for long range. these in front off 100 or 150 grns would be deadly out to 200 yrds and beyond.
  2. I use to own the cva accura v2 that was an awesome rifle. but it got stole from me. I also have a tc encore thats a great gun. but I just bought a new cva accura 45 caliber long range with the 30" barrel with the nitride finish from cva.com for only 430.00. I would recommend this gun to you. power belt also makes a long range bullet thats awesome for it. if you want 50 caliber cva makes this rifle in 50 caliber for the same money.
  3. sorry guys but I didnt notice it was such an old thread. I have single axis and used then a few times a yr for 3 yrs with no problems. sure hope cannon fixed the problem.
  4. he can get brand new from hodges marine for 86.45 each with free shipping. why would he want to pay 80.00 for used? just saying.
  5. I see you already bought rods and reels. i've fished for salmon and eyes for yrs. what I would recommend is the daiwa sealine sg27lc3b reels and 8' med action widerness trolling rods from fishusa.com. these will fish both species very well. 1st off you don't need a 9' rod for either fish. no need to go heavier than med action as your fishing open water where you wont need to horse the fish. the wilderness is a cheap fiberglass rod ( no need for anything else for trolling) that will last for yrs. I fish erie's central basin and run 6 divers 3 on each side and 1 rigger per side. I have never used a dipsy rod they are to stiff for me. I like a rod with a little give to it. its much easier to detect fish with a med or even a med/light than with a broomstick. the dr rods of yesterdays was either 8'3" or 8'6" in med/light action. caught many a big king without a rod failure. I run a 9' med action on my front diver an 8' med action on my middle diver and a 7' med/light on my back diver. some people like all the rods the same length. but this works best for me. I think it helps prevent tangles. I use lite bite slide divers because you set the lure tension to release on small fish. I just use them like dipsies. I attack my line to the front. tie a short leader to a split ring lase it through the back going in the lite bite arm then attach a snubber then use a 6' to 7' fluro leader then my lure. I use swivels on my leader. I set the lite bite arm as loose as it will go so it trips on small fish even most white perch. I use chamberlain releases for the same reason I use the lite bites. it has an adjustment for the lure you set as loose as you can without getting false releases. in my opinion its the only release for eyes. and the lite bite is the only diver for eyes. I started with dipsies but didnt liked the rings coming off all thed time. I seen the deeper diver without rings. they turned out much better than dipsies. Dreamweaver deeper diver at fishusa.com about 14.00. then I seen the lite bites and tried them and i've never looked back.
  6. is this tiller steering rope start?
  7. they make a body filler for auto's that has cat hair mixed in it. a friend had something bounce up a knock a hole in his bass boat. he used it and used the boat for yrs and it worked as good as the original hull.
  8. you might try moving the attaching point on the board a little farther towards the back. this will make them pull harder and run farther up.
  9. yes wall mart sells the duel purpose batteries. and they are as good as other batteries. I think there is only 3 companies in the us that makes and sells to large supply stores like wall mart. but there may be a few more now. but i've used wall mart batteries for yrs.
  10. sounds like the inner lining of the gas line is collapsing inside itself. the new gas line will fix the problem if thats what it is.
  11. I would fill it with jb weld and forger about it.
  12. you will be fine using a large duel purpose battery for both. a few more yrs down the road you'll be thankful you got electric start. if you run the trolling motor enough to run the battery down it still has the rope start. just make sure you get one that charges the battery. but most times the electric start will start a 15 hp motor. on the rare occasion you rope start you'll be glad the electric start is on the motor.
  13. they call them robin hoods when you stick one arrow with another one. but it gets expensive if done often. I have busted many nocks but was good enough to avoid getting a robin hood, lol.
  14. sounds very much like the calipers are stopped up but it would be rare for both sides to stop up at the same time. switch sides and use the vacuum pump. the rubber lining of the brake line often separate's and stops up the line. I would remove the rubber line and blow through it to see if its stopped up before changing the caliper. if both sides are the same look for a crimp in metal line. if you have an all rubber line I would check it before doing anything else.
  15. my guess is the impeller is getting bad. pushing some water but not enough at higher rpm's.
  16. i've charged low or dead batteries all my life when I would need a jump. and i'm 68 and never had a alternator go bad because of this. alternators have built in voltage regulators that only let them charge so much. it doesn't matter if you run the battery low starting in cold weather or if the battery is dead. it will charge what the regulator allows.
  17. it wont hurt a thing. I had a short in my truck that kept draining my battery plum dead. my charger wouldnt charge it at all. jumped the truck off and ran it for about 15 minutes then shut it off and used the charger to finish charging battery. this happened several times while trying to find the short. didnt hurt the alternator at all.
  18. I have had this problem with my black & decker automatic charger a few times on very low or dead batteries. hooked the charger up and it read bad battery. put the battery in my truck and ran it for about 15 minutes and problem solved. once the battery has charged take it to any auto parts store and have it tested so you know for sure its good.
  19. you need to answer a few simple questions first. what do you hope to gain? top end? a better hole shot? what prop do you have now? what is your wot rpm's? what is the max rpm for your motor? a 4 blade prop will give you a much better hole shot and better handling but may cost you 1 or 2 mph on top end. a revolution 4 is a proven performer. I get my props off ebay much cheaper than buying at a marina or prop chop.
  20. tunasreeltroubles.com is tuna toms web sight. they fix reels on the cheap. but sell a lot of parts. another good place for parts is on ebay.
  21. fish usually go up for a bait so its better to have your lure 5' above the fish than below the fish. so with blowback 70' on the rigger would be a great starting point with a lure that dives 5'.
  22. I like the 13# pancake weights I bought of ebay. some people say they have trouble with tracking. but you can adjust tracking by bending the fins. but i've never had that problem with mine. the heaver the weight the less blowback you have. but you have to know how much weight your riggers are rated for. the 13# pancake weights has very little blowback at depths up to 60' that I fish. look on ebay for weights before you buy any.
  23. I use the fluke style anchor with the sliding ring. something like bass pro's slip ring anchor. just give the rope a little slack pull above the anchor then pull the rope. the ring slides to the head of the anchor making it a breeze to retrieve the anchor. these are for lake fishing mostly but works in rivers also. a 10# anchor is usually all you need.
  24. the convectors are good reels but i've read great things about the cold waters.
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