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sherman brown

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Everything posted by sherman brown

  1. if the choke isn't opening all the way it will suck way to much gas in the motor. it could be as simple as adjusting the choke. with the motor cold turn the key on if it has electric choke. then open the gas far enough to close choke and hold it there. now start adjusting the choke until it opens then adjust it back slowly until it closes then stop. now you will have the choke working when it's cold and should open as it warms up. also you want to make sure the wires are hooked up to the carb. i bought my last carb off eBay for my MerCruiser 5.7
  2. they make an ez-steer bracket for i/o to outboard. but you need to measure the distance between the back of the motor and outdrive so you can order the length rod you need. i have an old rod and outboard hook ups but don't have the i/o bracket. and offhand i don't remember the length. they adjust from the short length to the extended length. just make sure it's right. it needs to extend when you trim the kicker.
  3. if you're using a regular fuel line with a bulb and if it's very old, they have an inner layer that tends to separate and after the motor runs for a little bit the inner lining will collapse shutting off fuel flow. once the motor dies the inner lining opens back up. my first repair would be to replace the fuel line and bulb with a new one unless it's been replaced recently.
  4. have you checked the bulb on the gas line when the Motor dies to see if the bulb is still firm?
  5. sounds like the needle valve may be sticking not letting enough gas in the bowl to keep the motor running but when it dies the bowl refills.
  6. did you use a backing under the wire to keep the wire from slipping on the spool? i had a problem with some reels with braid. spooled reels without backing and went fishing on erie. had all kinds of trouble reeling in fish. kept tightening tbhe drag until it wouldn't tighten any more. sent the reels to tuna toms for repair. thats when i was told my problem was the line slipping on the spools. he installed pins in the spools to tie my line to and replaced the drag washers with carbon washers. never had the problem again. now i just use a mono backing.
  7. i use ande pink line on my riggers.
  8. are you sure the line is laced up right through the eyes? have you tried turning the clicker off to see if it helps?
  9. you want to have them tied off to the front/side cleats then they should be back so the back of the bags are within a couple of feet from the back of the boat then the back of the bags tied off to the boat short enough that they don't drift away from the boat. they do affect boat handling just a little and at very slow speeds they may affect it a bit more. 1.8 to 2.0 is the slowest i have used them and had no problems with control that was noticeable.
  10. 500.00 would be a great price for just a 10" hds without the structure scan. but you should send him a message and see if he will give you a price on just the hds 10.
  11. this is the way i run my bags if i'm running 1 bag or 2 on my 23' cobia. but its very seldom i run 1 bag. i troll with the wind and need 2 bags to slow me down. i tie off to the front cleat and have the rope set where the back of the bag reaches my rear cleat then the back must be tied off. i usually just tie the back to the base on my rod holders.
  12. yes, it has a surge brake actuator for sure. have you tried backing it up a grade to test and see if the brakes are actually working? is there any brake lines going from the actuator to the hubs? that new of a trailer should still have the hardware but the brake pads could be worn out and not working.
  13. I've had a few convectors for a while. and they are great reels. but when i went to update my old daiwa sg17lca reels I bought 4 of the cold water reels. i haven't actually used the cold water reels yet. but they feel much better and I think they are much smoother than the convectors. and so far they are well worth the extra money. I bought mine off eBay at a good price.
  14. you get something like traxstech pully retriever or just a line with a cleat on the end that attaches to the board line to pull it to you to attach your lines.
  15. I really don't see a need for bags with the trolling motor unless you're just using it for steering while using the main motor to troll.
  16. i don't know anything about Henderson Bay. but if you find the fish 30' or deeper you might want 2 reels spooled with about 300' of mono backing then fill the reels full of 30# or 40# power pro braid making sure to fill each reel the same. you want to get 2 Dreamweaver deeper divers from fishusa.com. the Dreamweaver is the same size as a dipsy with the ring on it, but it doesn't have a ring to mess with. set these on a 1.5 setting left and right. the one set to the right should pull to the right and the left diver should pull to the left. add about a 6' or 7' fluro 15# test leader. you can use the same dive curve as a dipsy and be close. or you can just figure about a 1 to 3 dive curve. for every 3' of line out the diver dives close to 1'. now with the arm set in the diver not so tight it doesn't trip. with the clicker on let out enough line to reach the depth you want to fish. put them in the back holder horizontal to the water. then put out your other lines. if nothing happens with the divers after about 30 to 45 minutes reel up tight to the diver and pull hard to release the diver. reel it in to check for small fish. if you have nothing start over again going about 20' less line out. walleye will strike up better than down. if that doesn't help try going deeper. it just adds 2 lines to your spread. i have been using 3 divers per side on erie with great success. i also run 1 downrigger per side that catches some of our biggest fish. but just starting out 1 per side will work.
  17. I use the new 285 aero tip elr power belt bullets and they shoot better than any sabot I've ever fired. I use 150 grs of 777 pellets with 777 primes. I've shot as many as 15 shots without cleaning the barrel without having a lot of trouble pushing the bullet down. however, when I shoot for accuracy, I shoot 3 shot groups then clean it if I plan on shooting another group.
  18. i can reach 65' deep with a 2 oz weight with 65# braid and 245' of line out. i would think with a 7 oz weight it wouldn't be that hard to target 80' to 100'. i know for no more than it would cost i would be willing to give them a try. yes, you're going to get blowback with a 7 oz diver. but with 7 oz of weight and the design of the diver it's going to dive a lot deeper than the 65' i get with a stock 2 oz weight with the small ring. just try one with the 7 oz weight with the large ring and go to 100' of water at trolling speed and let out line slowly until you start bumping bottom (or not) and see if it's a tool that will replace wire for guys that's having so much trouble running wire. braid is cheap compared to wire and it doesn't kink like wire. I'm not trying to say it's a better option than wire. I don't know for a fact that it will reach 100' but it is something to thank about.
  19. the slide diver with the 7 oz conversion kit with the large ring is just another tool to get deep with braid. good luck with your tests.
  20. but you don't have to use the slide part of the lite bite slide diver. just use a swivel and hook it to the front arm then tie a 7' leader to an O-ring and lace it through the back of the diver and get the 7oz weight kit and use it instead of the 2 oz weight to get deep.
  21. what's the price on your motor? i know it's not free, LOL.
  22. yeah, but the weight's what gets the diver down so why wouldn't the 7 oz weight kit you can get for the slide diver with the large ring should get it deep.
  23. i'll still never understand if you want to get deep why you guys don't try the 7 oz slide diver with braid. i can get to 65' with 65# braid and a standard ring and weight, and thats as deep as i want to fish or i would try the heavier weight. in don't use the slide feature of the diver. i just add my leader to the back of the diver.
  24. I've only used wire twice for walleye on Erie for walleye and the only time I came close to getting a kink was from not enough tension when letting line out. if I didn't keep my thumb in contact with the wire when letting the line out the spool would get slack and when the slack got tight the wire would overlap and cause a kink. it doesn't matter so much if the wire is spooled a little loose as long as you keep tension on the wire when letting it out. i use 15# wire for walleye and i have made a couple of splices in the wire using a micro swivel and shrink tubing. but you really need to slow your reel down when the splice goes through the rod eyes when letting it out.
  25. if you want to get your diver deep and get away from wire switch to braid line and slide divers with the 7 oz weight kit. I may be wrong but i believe the 7 oz of weight will get the diver as deep if not deeper than wire. you don't have to use the slide feature of a slide diver. you can rig a leader on the back and tie your main line to the front arm. that's what i do on my lite bite slide divers.
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