Autopilot Question

[Nameless Fish]

So I'm looking to potentially rig up a new boat and had some questions about an autopilot setup on it. The boat has an outboard mounted on an extended transom/full width swim platform, I would install a kicker motor on the extended transom as well. My question is, do I go with an AP setup on my main engine and then connect it to my kicker via a tie bar or do I go with a standalone kicker AP unit like the Garmin Reactor 40 kicker? The issue I'm seeing with the Reactor 40 kicker AP is that Garmin says the kicker needs to be a tiller handle model and with the extended transom I won't be able to reach the tiller handle.  The issue with the AP setup on the main engine and tie bar route is, the boat I'm looking at is an enclosed pilothouse model and I really need to be able to control the AP with a wireless remote when I'm on the back deck.  Any suggestions?

[rolmops]

I have a garmin 40 auto pilot on my kicker and it is definitely not a tiller model kicker. You should get in touch with yankee troller. He has all the info you need 

[Nameless Fish]

12 minutes ago, rolmops said:

I have a garmin 40 auto pilot on my kicker and it is definitely not a tiller model kicker. You should get in touch with yankee troller. He has all the info you need 

I contacted Garmin support about it and they said they don't recommend, or support install on non-tiller models and a "custom install" would invalidate the warranty of the product. I'd hate to spend $3k and the instantly ruin the warranty 5 minutes later.

[mr 580]

With an enclosed pilot house you would likely have a rear display that you could link to forward display- run your main AP from either display.  I run a Simrad AP on a bracket mounted outboard with tie bar to kicker operated on Simrad touchscreen.  Kicker runs fine on tiebar.

[rolmops]

18 minutes ago, FishingFool34 said:

I contacted Garmin support about it and they said they don't recommend, or support install on non-tiller models and a "custom install" would invalidate the warranty of the product. I'd hate to spend $3k and the instantly ruin the warranty 5 minutes later.

There must be a disconnect somewhere. I have a 40 auto pilot installed on a 9.9 Suzuki  kicker that never had a tiller arm and I do have full warranty. Maybe an EZ-steer connection to the main engine or another connection to the main engine  that also pushes the main , I/O or outboard voids the warranty. Again , talk to Yankee Troller. He is on the board and through Krenzer Marine he does a lot of work ,connected to all electronics on boats

[Nameless Fish]

1 minute ago, rolmops said:

There must be a disconnect somewhere. I have a 40 auto pilot installed on a 9.9 Suzuki  kicker that never had a tiller arm and I do have full warranty. Maybe an EZ-steer connection to the main engine or another connection to the main engine  that also pushes the main , I/O or outboard voids the warranty. Again , talk to Yankee Troller. He is on the board and through Krenzer Marine he does a lot of work ,connected to all electronics on boats

This what I was sent from Garmin support.

[rolmops]

Ok 

What they say is that they do not want you to customize and if you do the warranty may be voided. I did not have to customize, because they sell all the parts needed for my Suzuki outboard. 

Edited June 18, 2025 by rolmops

[Nameless Fish]

10 hours ago, rolmops said:

Ok 

What they say is that they do not want you to customize and if you do the warranty may be voided. I did not have to customize, because they sell all the parts needed for my Suzuki outboard. 

I'm looking to put it on a Suzuki 9.9 as well. So you're saying you just bought the kit (plus the additional brackets needed for a Suzuki) and installed it as if it was a tiller per the instructions? And you didn't experience any of the issues they mentioned in that message that would happen if you installed on a non-tiller?

[rolmops]

Not a single problem. The magic is in the metal plate that goes onto the carburetor instead of the one that is on it. It allows the carburetor to open and close without ever having to pull or push the mechanical remote control cables, but you can still use your regular remote instead of the wireless.

Just remember to always turn off your garmin remote if you choose to use the old system, otherwise the garmin will go crazy trying to correct course or speed

[Queechylakepro]

got a 210 hewescraft extended transom Searunner hardtop. 225 Honda, Garmin reactor autopilot with smart pump on the 225 with tie bar to 9.9 kicker with pro troll throttle control on kicker. works flawlessly.

Use autopilot 95% of the time running and 99% trolling. If cross winds are kinda snotty causing kicker to lose its bite you can troll with main. Running Im at helm with autopilot on, hand on binnacle while maintaining watch. It steers better than anyone ever thought they could.