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SUB TROLL CABLE ATTACHES??


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SUB TROLL CABLE ATTACHES??

image.thumb.jpg.dd210615774885d6596d9d49b1a9098f.jpgimage.thumb.jpg.38134a6bbe7d2a94cd68e0785d8c96a6.jpgHow do you guys that have these probes connect the cable to the probe, I'm a tad confused with the to fully insulate or do you leave it bare like this, but others say to use a swivel. If this is the proper way then I'll copy what's done here. Please a little help needed!! also what type of insulation should I use? Thanks PAP

Edited by pap
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Strip off enough insulation to tie a wire line knot to a large termination swivel and a blacks release (with swivel) with bare metal touching the eyelet of the swivel. Clip swivel to probe. Run a 3' piece of dowrigger cable with termination swivels and wire line knots to bottom of probe down to downrigger ball. The reason for the 3' section between the downrigger ball and probe is so when you stop the release where you can reach it, the ball stays in the water. Bouncing balls snap off probes. No crimps in the equation. 

 

Downrigger ball/termination swivel/wire knot/3' of cable/wire knot/termination swivel/bottom probe eyelet/termination swivel top probe eyelet/blacks release/wire knot bare metal on contact. 

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Thanks GILL-T, I'm going to make this up with reg. Wire then a pic. To you before I do this permanent. I'll have to put my mag 20 on the probe side, because I can't lift 16# torps with the 10's and I can't switch probes right.

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Thank you I ordered 2 of those moor line device things that have a loop of line to a screw from the Marine General, I was thinking about a Scott's break off, I was wondering why cant I just add a snubber?? Thanks for reassuring my mind what little I have on the snubber, others have different ways and all sound good. Old saying goes you learn much faster with your wallet than your head. So I'll do what I think is good, hopefully I'm right the first time if not, I'll be $200 lighter but learned by my wallet. I'm thinking I have the older 20's slow up & down, maybe these guys with the much faster riggers that really jerk around??

Edited by pap
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3X with the Moor Klincher kit.     As for a snubber between the probe and ball.....wha!?

 

The moor sub troll should have come with an (I think it's 80 pounds) breakaway leader kit that you use to attach the cannon ball to the probe.

 

That way if you snag the ball, the breakaway gives before the 150 pound coated line breaks.

 

Although Moor went out of business, you can still get spare parts, (and the breakaway system) here...

 

http://www.esgdirect.com/trolling.html

 

Scroll down, and you will find the 80 pound break away set up.   Also, that Moor Klincher is only $10 on this site as well.

 

Edited by JimB
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3 hours ago, JimB said:

3X with the Moor Klincher kit.     As for a snubber between the probe and ball.....wha!?

 

The moor sub troll should have come with an (I think it's 80 pounds) breakaway leader kit that you use to attach the cannon ball to the probe.

 

That way if you snag the ball, the breakaway gives before the 150 pound coated line breaks.

 

Although Moor went out of business, you can still get spare parts, (and the breakaway system) here...

 

http://www.esgdirect.com/trolling.html

 

Scroll down, and you will find the 80 pound break away set up.   Also, that Moor Klincher is only $10 on this site as well.

 

 

Thanks Jim, I was also thinking about the Scotty break away, I think that was a 70# one, I'll order the one that goes with the sub troll if it's 80#'s or even if it's 70#:yes: thanks pap

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