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Transom Replacement, Crestliner SST Transom

Todd in NY

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I got the 7/8" piece of transom wood out today in one piece. It wasn't easy, and it was painfully time consuming, but I was able to save the thick sheet of plywood to use as a template.


I ended up buying an 18" long 1/2" diameter drill bit. I drilled countless holes straight down into the 5/8" piece of plywood, and also drilled holes on various left and right angles, being careful to not mess up the 7/8" piece of plywood.


So here is the 7/8" piece of plywood, in one piece. At this point I was able to pull the plywood out by hand.








Next step is to make the new transom board.

Edited by Todd in NY
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I've redone 4 transoms similar to what you're attempting; pain in the butt but worth it once you get it done.


If the Coosa board is not easily available, I used marine grade mahogany in two 3/4" layers which I glued using West System marine epoxy which I thickened and mixed in shredded fiberglass shards, troweled this on one side and primed the other with the epoxy I then placed in on my flat garage floor and placed concrete blocks on it till it set.  I also, epoxied and glassed in the edges of the plywood to seal it for good.  When reassembling it predrill the holes or match drill them from your old transom and seal all the drill holes with the marine epoxy too; 2 coats.  When installing the hardware I used 3M 5200 marine sealant/adhesive in the holes, on the shaft of the fasteners etc.  This transom will be stronger and most likely last longer than you and me on this Earth.


Good luck.

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I dropped my boat off at the marina last week. The owner says he thinks using Seacast in the transom instead of wood or Coosa would be my best option. I like the idea of Seacast, but no decision has been made yet. I'll update this thread when the next step is complete.

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Todd, I used the Seacast product.  Bullet proof but definitely different than plopping a piece of wood down the slot and calling it good. I went with it just because I wanted it to be the last time I ever had to think about it again.  Things I learned either by learning from the manufacturer or the hard way.  
1. Dont do it during winter (unless you have heated garage)

2. Use spacers to keep the width consistent throughout the transom when pouring

3. Have another hand day of pour

4. More is better than running short


Price point is more than wood, I think Coosa board is about the same if not more. It’s about what you feel comfortable with as well.  

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I'll contact some Seacast dealers and get some prices. My transom is quite a bit smaller than other transoms due to only having to replace the rear part of the SST. That should keep my materials cost a little lower.

Edited by Todd in NY
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