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Everything posted by LongLine

  1. The only way I've found to avoid a mess with cheaters is to run stackers.
  2. How'd you get thru without taking real science?.......heh, heh, heh. (just playing)
  3. My mistake. Talking about different things. I was refering to battery/solenoid/cable connections.
  4. Hey, hey F'man. Long time. Hope it's well with you. I agree, the older boats were more solidly built. i.e. thicker aluminum. Mine's still going strong...knock on wood. I agree with the pressure treated wood...chemicals will react with aluminum over time. I was told a long time ago that the best bunks were actually pine but coated with fiberglass, then painted and covered with strips of outdoor carpet. Cruddy anodes on the motor can be a problem, but I'd think that comes more from dissimilar metals while you're running. My cables are copper with copper connectors and Brass nuts. I get a little tarnish every couple years but no crud.
  5. One thing you can't get on any weather forecast is the frequency/period of the waves. (Other than the Midlakes buoy) A 1 1/2 ft wave with a low frequency is nice. A high frequency will rattle your teeth on a small boat.
  6. Irg - Yes, Juice won't flow unless it's grounded. If there is any electric leak to the hull, you'll pick it up with a voltmeter from hull to an earth ground. Shakem' - Yes it can. Those holes in the above pix are not pure chemical attack. They're electro-chemical. i.e electricity to metal to water.
  7. That looks more like something was not properly grounded. EVERY electronic device must be grounded to the battery, NOT the boat, especially on an aluminum boat and the motor must be touching the water when the boat is in the water. I found out years ago that radios, fishfinders, etc still draw miniscule electricity even when they are turned off at the unit in order to preserve their memory, They also need to be mounted to the boat with an insulator between them and the boat. (i.e. rubber pad, gromets, etc) That's why isolation switches are so important. Batteries must be in a battery container with a lid and never touching an aluminum boat hull! Stray currents are death to an aluminum boat. You can check for stray currents simply by having the boat on a trailer then simply touch a voltmeter to a bare spot on the hull and a metal fence post (or metal stake driven into the ground). Irg - You gotta get that boat up on land & up off the trailer. Then use the food-colored water.
  8. Are you sure it's not just little wave spray or engine spray? i.e After a ride in choppy water, did you check for water about 10 minutes after you dock? A physical leak isn't going to cure itself. Was the water real calm when you took the kids to the beach? This last Monday I went from I-bay to the Genny. Had about 1 1/2 ft chop out of the NW. I slowed way down (to save my teeth & my back) . When I pulled the drain plug on the trailer at the launch, I had a little water come out. A few years ago, I did the same ride with my daughter sitting in a rear seat & she complained a few times about the wave spray.
  9. 7-Day Marine Forecast 43.3N 77.64W | Hamlin Beach to Sodus Bay NY (weather.gov) (Scroll down & move the square on the right-hand side.) NOAA/GLERL Great Lakes Coastal Forecasting System, GLCFS
  10. Measure twice & cut once or it'll get expensive quickly. Tie good knots & check you lines regularly or it'll get expensive quickly.
  11. I don't know if you've ever jacked an aluminum boat up before, but in case you haven't, this is what I've done: (Chock your wheels.) Then you can use a single point automotive hydraulic jack at the transom, BUT MAKE SURE you use a short (maybe 2 ft long) 4x4 with a V cut in it that matches the bottom of your boat between the jack and the boat. This will distribute the weight of the boat/motor. Otherwise, that jack can do a lot of damage. (Whatever you do DO NOT lower the front trailer wheel, block the transom and try to use the front trailer wheel to lift the front of the trailer up! This is called a "stupid human trick" and will cost you 100 bucks for a new front wheel.....Been there, done that) Remember, you only have to clear the trailer by a couple inches at most. I've lifted the front of mine off the trailer (again trailer wheels chocked) by raising the front trailer wheel as high as it'll go and using 3 cinderblocks on each side of the trailer and placing a 4 ft long 4x4 across them between the boat and the trailer. I also put a couple wood wedges on top of the 4x4. (Note: rear of boat still on trailer) Then lowering the front wheel. Good luck & let us know how you make out.
  12. Brian - Heck yes! I'd be very interested to see that data.
  13. The ones I'm seeing are 14-16" long and very aggressive. i.e. popping Black's releases.
  14. If me, I would get the boat on a trailer & jack the front-end way up. Then I'd put some water in it, but I'd mix some food coloring in it. My reasoning is that you said you went to a smaller 4 stroke a few years ago and that you've recently replaced some rivets. I see from your pictures that you troll with the big engine as I don't see a kicker. Even though they're quieter, 4 strokes have many more moving parts than 2 strokes and as such their harmonics are different than 2 strokes. i.e. they vibrate differently, especially at low speeds. I suspect you may have multiple rivets, or a seam or a joint just starting to loosen up. Leaks may be so slight that you can't see them drip. The food coloring will make it much easier to see. I'd also check to see if there is some sort of dampening plate/spacers between the engine & the transom.
  15. I'd advise invest in a rigger first. Even if only a manual one, then go from there.
  16. On Lake Ontario, I've not noted a pattern tied to time of yr, fronts, etc. IMO, speaking to Kings/spoons - it's the spoon action that counts. Determine the factors that affect that & then try to duplicate it.
  17. You thinking just the weight or that it vibrates more?
  18. Launched at 06:30 this morning. More to see if big motor running ok...YAY! Fired right up, didn't load up at all, ran perfect! River surface 68F. Headed out & took a left. Quite overcast sky, Westerly wind with about a 1-1 1/2 ft chop. Put in at 65FOW & trolled out to 115 & around. Surface 57-58. Clean screen all the way. 3 small kings, questionably legal. Revived all. Blk/slvr Spooks down 35 on the riggers. (Funny how these little guys all tripped the riggers.) Off at 10:00. Luck to all, Tom B. (LongLine)
  19. Anyone needing help with their motor....Hank is the man to go to. Tom B. (LongLine)
  20. Hank - you checking PMs? Tom B.
  21. Unfortunately, when organic waste decomposes, it creates ammonia. That's why wastewater facilities are required by the EPA to have ammonia stripping mechanisms. Ammonia is great for algae but deadly to fish. Hopefully it's diluted really quick!
  22. I have two of them. (for about 15 years now) Swivel mounts & extendable booms that I don't extend as I have no need to. I use a 14.5 Lb homemade torpedo & have my sub-T probe on it. Never had any problems....knock on wood. I've had it down over 100 ft. It does give you exercise getting it back up from that depth though. (any manual will) Tom B. (LongLine)
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