LongLine

WTG!

Well that's a load off your mind...Compression difference is real bad...definitely a rebuild. rings, head, etc. or someone bought for parts. (cuz they expensive) Good luck with finding a new one. Let us know what you get.

If you look at all 5 of these graphs you'll see they are for specific Longitudinal lines and 1 latitude (which is E-W in the middle of the lake.) The temp midway between the longitudes can be slightly different. True Upwellings are unstable water. Although some fish are caught there, I've always had better luck to the outside of them where the water is much more stable. i.e. as Brian said "head offshore."

WTG!

WTG!

On my compression gauge there's a knurled ring up by the gauge to release pressure. If that's not fully engaged, (closed) readings will be very misleading. If still low, squirt a few drops of oil in the cylinder and test again. (If still low, I'd go to an auto parts store & see if I could rent a gauge for a couple hours) By hard to start, do you mean engine didn't want to turn over or do you mean it took a long time cranking to start? I.e did you have to lay on the starter for a long time? A couple years ago, when I was out in Big-O and engine stalled on me. Dumb me...I cranked & cranked.. After about 10 minutes of rest & panicked swearing, it started but died again. I hobbled back to launch on kicker. I was dumb cuz all that cranking really weakened my starter. Testing it and I had to replace it. Starter shouldn't take more than 3 or 4 seconds at most to get it going. Checked carbs & pump, recharged battery. Ran fine in driveway for about 5 minutes & I was happy. Took to launch, it started fine but when I put it in gear & backing out, it died and wouldn't start. After a lot of swearing, I asked for help in the forum on "Iboats.com. " (where I learned that there were a lot of 3 bangers still going strong.) Anyways, a suggestion was to check the automatic choke solenoid. Sure, as beans, the O-ring inside it was shot and the spring was fouled. This solenoid allows a lot of fuel into the engine, and it was flooding out. (E-10 gas *!**!!) Runs like a top now. Make sure you TEST, TEST, TEST & retest components before replacing them. Parts can get very expensive!

DOUBLE CHECK that compression!!!!! That's very very low! Older 3 bangers should be around 90 psi. Any engine below 70 is going to run like sh[t. You sure your gauge is working properly? Hopefully the gauge you're using is a "screw-in" not a hand-held one. A bad coil can take out/deteriorate the power pack. That's why I replaced all 3 coils. Coils can be expensive, but I bought mine from "Marineengine.com". I'd suggest you buy a cheap multimeter (ohm meter) and test all 3 coils and the power pack before you put any more money into it. Again, Harbour Freight has them cheap (No I don't work for HF....some of their stuff is worthless but their multimeter is more than enough for what you need) You can google the specs and test procedures for your engine. Those 3 bangers are almost indestructible and there's a lot of info and videos out there. As for hard to "turn over". pull all the plugs out and wrap a rope around the flywheel. PULL! (As you didn't hear any noises, it could be that you just wore your battery down trying to start it)

You can buy an inline spark tester at Harbor Freight for like $5 and test in your driveway. (disconnect all plugs so it doesn't start) Tester should illuminate the same for all 3 plugs. I had a similar condition on my "3 banger" (Less the VRO) a few years ago. i.e top plug very wet after idling. I found that I had a weak coil. I replaced all 3 coils and performance improved dramatically.

you're not sparking properly on that top cylinder.

Feel free to call them & find out (585-428-7432) rather than being a ""keyboard warrior."

The falls at Driving Park have been roaring lately so the ramp fills in fast. I've seen it clean one day and totally plugged up 3 days later. I also know that there are at least 9 cameras monitoring the marina & launch. Thanx for cleaning it up.

Anyone know anything about Polar Kraft boats?

Try an industrial supply house such as grainger.com or mcmaster.com

I've been googling. Here's what I found: Could be VCI paper. Chemically treated paer that helps prevent corrosion due to moisture. Used to protect all metals & metal parts, especially in shipping & storage. Found this at www.zerust.com.

I would have guessed a thin gasket material or rubber, but not sure why they put it in there. Spacer to assure a tight fit? Reduce vibration? I'd ask on I-boats forum. (iboats.com) They have a lot of guys that do restorations.

Never heard of any "paper" used in a tank. Suspect more than likely a chemical residue/sludge that's hardened up over time. Ethanol gas will definitely do exactly that to old rubber hoses. I had a gas line leak under my floor boards years ago when that happened to fuel line. I replaced everything with ethanol resistant rubber & rerouted line above floor boards. Also, if you have an older engine, check all of its fuel lines and o-rings. (especially any "automatic choke solenoids.")