mr 580

If you are new to copper I would say just run copper and get comfortable with it. On long coppers I wouldn't add lead. Only place I used it was on short coppers running off boards and I felt I could get the copper deployed quicker with a little lead on the front- fishing high with multiple lines. To me the copper/lead setup is a special application setup. For somebody working on their spread I'd focus on more basic stuff first.

I have used an Albright knot and would leave enough copper to haywire twist the end. Then I would coat copper end with liquid rubber to finish. Couple colors of leadcore helps the copper deploy easier also think you still get leadcore movement especially with spoons.

X2 on issue's with Coldwater Tackle. Was shorted on a couple backordered/drop ship items. Got one email response then no further contact. I had done a "trial" order so I don' plan to go back after getting stiffed.

It's a three day event-started Friday so it wraps up Sunday early afternoon. Think it's a 100 boat field so ramp could be busy. Shouldn't be hard to see where guys are if they get out.

FYI that the Con Club Tournament wraps up Sunday 8/6 in Dunkirk. If lake is fisheable the ramp will probably be busy. Couple that with the unsettled weather and it might be wise to look at an alternate date/other port. Fishing has been good-lots of short fish to sort through-when you can get out.

PM sent with pic

PM sent on Daiwa Reel

Put 30lb Big Game with 20lb fluoro leader on your rigger rods so you are safe with fleas. Run wire dipsey's if you have them. Check your drags as you can't have them hammered down tight. Get some flies to run with flashers and check the sizes of your spoons. You'll also likely be fishing deeper and faster than what you be used to on Erie. Have good terminal tackle-kings will find the weakest link. Have fun!

I've never visited the Hamburg, Pa location so can't comment on that. I do make a few trips a year to BPS in Auburn and Cabelas in Buffalo and when I'm in Washington I hit Lacey Cabelas and BPS in Tacoma. My experience in those stores, is that they keep them clean/stocked and staffed. Even during holidays they've had registers open to keep lines down. That being said I buy mainly sale items in clothing and shop Bargain Cave-I find their everyday prices pretty high. For trolling gear and tackle I buy most everything closer to home. They don't do a good job on regional items like spoons. I'll look at what they have to see if anything different but rarely buy to much in lures or tackle. In the bigger stores on the west coast I've gotten some good deals on display reels in the Bargain Cave. Other than that shop local.

My experience with electric winchs is the wiring harness supplied with them is way too light. Really need a extra heavy cable. The other thing is to pull with a double line by dead heading cable at the winch and using a pulley on the hook. IMO a heavy duty two speed mechanical winch works as good and is less of a problem to maintain.

The Map chips aren't sold by size. They are brand and model specific. They are offered for different regions so you need to drill down to be sure the lakes you want are offered on that particular Map chip. Most of the sites selling these have a three step process so you get the right chip. Most also offer free updates for a year as well. Just spend some time on Navionics or Lakemaster sites so you are comfortable getting the correct chip for your 597ci.

I run a Navionics Map card in my Humminbird. I went with Navionics as they had coverage for Chautauqua Lake. Humminbird has Lakemaster Map cards, but I found the lake coverage for NY to be limited. Before you purchase check both unit compatibility and lake coverage. These Map chips aren't cheap and are non returnable once opened. Another thing with a 5" unit you will have pretty small view of contours in a split screen. I recommend at least a 7 inch screen. I contour troll and drift in my Lund and the Map chip works well.

I run an 8 hp Yamaha on my Lund 17 1/2 ft. Trolls down to under 1mph and will run up over 6 @wot. Has an alternator that keeps starting battery charged. Like the 8 on that boat better than a 9.9 I used before I went to the 8 hp.

Have used the Amish Outfitter snubbers for a few years. Hold up well and take the "snap" out of the stop on Cannon high speed riggers. Reasonably priced also.

Have you looked at putting kicker on a "mini jack plate"? T H Marine has one that moves kicker back 4" and up slightly- both would help tilt clearance. Years ago I had similar issue on a Starcraft and made a bracket to move kicker up about an 1" that gave me clearance to tilt the kicker. Price on the fixed jack plate is around $125 so a lot cheaper than a new kicker.

I just got 5 Type 1 adults from Sportsmans Guide. I went there after having an issue with Amazon and a 3rd Party vendor. If you go to Amazon and see a vendor listed as "HKX Direct" it is an offshore scam. I was able to get a refund but it held me up for a while. Seems to me that anything with a USCG approval has a premium price. I won't say I got best price at SG but they did have in stock. Some places don't offer Type 1. Good luck with your search.

If something happened with kill switch that would let engine turn over and you would not have spark so make sure that is working. Check ignition switch in on position. I'd also check fuses and ground connections for corrosion-clean with emery cloth. Sometimes a little green crud can make electronics stop working.

I believe a 1995 Mercruiser should have electronic ignition and no points. I'd suggest checking connections and voltage at ignition switch and kill switch lanyard if you have one. Will need a multimeter to read voltage in the system. If not comfortable testing, probably need to have someone look at it. Can be expensive throwing parts at a problem. I'd look for corrosion in a connection before I bought a new electronic module or other high buck pieces.

Check the glass on the passenger side to see if it has a manufacturer name. If it is Taylormade then you might be able to order directly from them-you would likely get the glass and frame in one piece. Believe the windows are made in Gloversville, NY. I had a window on my Proline get broken-once I got part I installed myself-wasn't exactly easy as most of the windshield had to come off to do it right.

With a manual rigger like unitroll 5 you don't need a snubber unless you want to use it as a "break away". Snubbers come into play with high speed electrics to take away shock from rapid stop. With a manual just wind slower as you near top. You might use 5lb weight fishing shallow and slow. Most of the time you'll want to use 10lb when fishing deeper for less blowback. Best way to get used to riggers is to get on water and run them.

A custom cover maker should be able to use the existing snaps on the boat. Make sure you tell them that is what you want. Custom covers well worth the money- every couple years spray on fresh waterproofing.

My tracks came with 1 3/4" screws, flat washers, lock washers and nuts. I have some Bert's and they use same size.