mr 580
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Everything posted by mr 580
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Wormburners catch eyes and run ok with stickbaits. Last year clean spoons worked well for me so I didn’t get the wormburners out. If I can skip the worms it is less mess and faster to reset lines. -
Ron, great fish. Fun to see the kids involved too. Agree 100% with replica mount over skin mount. -
With the high speed cannons like the Mag 5ST, it really helps to run a ball snubber to take out the snap when the auto stop breaks the surface. Amish Outfitters makes one that is reasonably priced and holds up well. If you are fraying cables you need to check how your cables are installed. I run two Mag 5ST’s and have zero issues with cables fraying. I do check and change my probe rigger termination annually. The Cannon terminators are very trouble free. Get your cable routing sorted out and a couple of ball snubbers should fix the break off problem. -
The way I look at it the Simrad is a touchscreen unit-the only button on it is the power button. So all your info is via touch-way points can be entered several ways and to me it is a matter of getting used to unit. A few swipes and it is in-do it a few times and no big deal. I liked the fact it was compact and the screen was bright in sunlight. I also generally run more off my tracks vs going way point to way point. I've attached a picture of my dash with GO7 chart plotter and you can see how compact it is. My Lowrance Gen 2 touch is to the left and that takes up more space with it's row of buttons. Like anything every unit has plus and minus- you have to judge what is best for you. Operation in bright sunlight was important to me and I had a buddy in Florida that put Simrads on his new center console and he really liked them in the Gulf. -
Have you looked at Simrad GO series chart plotter? I upgraded from a Global Map to a Simrad Go 7 with Navionics last season. Nice bright touchscreen that views good even in bright sun light. Been happy with it so far- looks good in the dash too.
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10lb are fine and fishing shallow could go to 8lb. Some folks feel using a smaller ball creates less disturbance and is more “stealthy”. Based on number of eyes in Erie now, I don’t know that I would run out to buy a bunch of different rigger weights. I run a 10lb and a 13lb on probe rigger-I tend to fish up off bottom especially with probe rigger. Over the years I’ve found this to be more “economical”. For eyes a spoon fluttered off a rigger puts fish in the boat especially when it is a bit slow.
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Jann’s Netcraft has Pacbay roller swivel rod tip in their catalog for less than $20.00 -
Rated up to 20lbs
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My depth raider has been reliable and trouble free. Like others have said pros and cons with both depth raider ad fish hawk. If I was buying a unit today, I would probably go with the fish hawk as I think they have a bigger market share and a good reputation for customer service. Depth raider decent price/product from a small company. The smart troll I kind of view as a item that is used as a complement to a speed and temp system rather than a direct competitor. For someone wanting additional info good tool, but for basic info a rigger mount speed temp unit is the way to go.
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I'll share a couple pictures of my slide diver setups. If you're fishing Lake Ontario exclusively the regular slide diver (no light bite arm)works fine- I run surgical tubing under the lock arm and add a couple of beads at back to protect the swivel knot. I always run a leader back to the lure and I vary length depending on spoon or flasher fly. For light bites I add a short piece of the small clear tubing that comes with the diver to use with braid. This slides over the light bite arm so your line doesn't fall out of the arm. This tip is a time saver for setting lights as you don't have to watch or put line back in arm. I also add a couple beads to protect that knot as well. With wire I add a small section of braid to attach the mono to slide on. I put a drop of glue on the wire to braid knot to lock it. For mono I'm using Maxima 40lb leader material which seems to hold up longer than the 30lb I used to use. Mono leader is pretty reasonable in price for a coil of it. These setups have worked well for me. Never had breakoff issues and only maintenance is changing the slide mono when it gets difficult to let out. -
Weather.com had a story from a day or two on coverage on the lakes. Percentage of coverage is up in last week but still pretty small percentage. After next weeks cold snap could change. Agree most of sites are down.
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Lake Erie is pretty much open-satellite pics show some ice in far western basin. So the lake effect machine is still cranking.
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Contact CB’s Saltwater Outfitters on Siesta Key. They could offer suggestions. They have bait, tackle, guides and rent boats. I rented a boat from them a few years ago.
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I’ve had one for a few years- I’ll do the best I can with questions.
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Dale, I wish I could get back to the Oak some but I stay busy down here between Chautauqua and Erie. I like salmon fishing but from a business standpoint getting the guide license and working the home lake was a no brainer. Hope you are catching fish on those spoons I gave you.
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On Lake O I’m pretty careful with currents before I run 2 divers per side. If spread doesn’t square up I stick with one and honestly one usually gets job done. Less seems to be more more often than not. If you run 2 divers keep them at least 2 numbers apart and let them out slow.
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Using the standard weight I use more of 2.5 to a 3 to 1 ratio. The 2 to 1 to me is for the ultimate weight. I usually start a little high then let line out if the diver doesn’t go. I have been using 40lb mono leader material for the diver to slide on-seems to hold up better tan the 30lb Big Game I used to use. You’ll know when it starts to curl up at rod dip when you are setting leader length.
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You can get beyond 50 feet with std weight and big ring pulling a spoon. With a flasher fly then you might want to go with weight kit. I run SD’s and 50 is the point I start thinking about adding the weight kit. I always run a ring, but I know guys who do well without them. Some of it is personal preference and how you like to see your rods load up.
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My board is 42” long by 16” deep. -
Attached is a pic of the pvc cleaning table I made for my boat. It sets on my perpendicular 4 Traxstech rod holders and is held in place by a bungie under the rod holders and the lip of the front moulding. My boat has an under the gunnel rod rack and it stored standing up in that area. I haven't done any on the water cleaning recently so if someone thought it could work them just PM me and I'd likely let it go. Board worked fine-just had to wash down side of boat and rod holders if blood spilled.
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Dealing through a broker can be tricky. If the broker is just working as an agent for a fee, the broker may be letting the seller set the price then marking it up by his percentage. In that case, the broker has minimal incentive other than his commission. If the broker functions as a dealer and the seller is looking at buying a replacement through the dealer, you could have some leverage. The broker/dealer would be looking at 2 deals not 1 with the second moving some of his inventory and additional margin. Also a word of caution on relying on “book values” for pricing. I was in the heavy equipment industry prior to retirement and we went away from guide books as a pricing tool years ago. Most were merely a depreciation schedule based on published number like MSRP and were not connected to actual market by any reporting process. We used real time market numbers for comparative units from internet research for pricing. Generally the only time “book value” was discussed was with finance or insurance issues. From a negotiating standpoint as a buyer, I would use comparative boat prices and pictures to justify my offer. Book values are best left to the bean counters and bankers.
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Mercury has a online prop selector where you input your boat info- hull type, engine/drive, weight and application. Seems like a good place to start. I don’t know specs on your 5.0 engine, but tend to think that at 5,500 rpm you are pretty much maxed out. A higher numerical pitch should pull rpm down. I had a 5.7 mercury that would run about 5000 at wot. Reducing weight or moving it forward would also help.
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Might want to start the refund process. When Frank Kittrick from Amish Outfitters says that they are offering his products below wholesale and have no account setup makes a solid scam confirmation. Think he is right about them “pirating” descriptions and layout from FishUSA as well. There aren’t the margins in this stuff to offer those discounts along with free freight.
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Have you unloaded and loaded boat from trailer yet? If you haven’t might want to try it first before making adjustments. Looks to me that trailer was designed that way and it was meant to support the boat on both the bunks and rollers. I have a bunk trailer for my Proline that doesn’t have rollers and my boat loads good on it. You might also call the manufacturer and ask about that model trailer-I see they are still around. Trying to make adjustments could open a can of worms. Hope the Proline works out good for you. The rear guide poles are a good addition. -
Cannon makes a lock for STX or you can look at “mini cabinet locks” to match up from a variety of sources. They go in mount that is predrilled and slotted for them. I bought mine at Graingers probably Amazon has them to.
