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mr 580

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Everything posted by mr 580

  1. You are getting great advice. Join a charter boat association - the benefits far out way the cost of the dues. Join a drug consortium as well which can save you from thousands in potential fines from not being in a random test program. I haven’t found any insurance to beat Gallagher Charter Lakes either. Doesn’t pay to not do it right.
  2. You would be better off looking at electronic throttle controls like Trollmaster and Control King. They are designed specifically for kicker applications and holding small throttle settings. I spent many years in tractor and ce business and the small gas engine controls weren’t designed usually for low speed operation and generally were pretty crude. Most were designed to be used at wot. The electronic kicker controls are very trouble free and easy to install. My personal preference is toward hard wired units vs remote control as I feel less chance of problems like dead remote control batteries.
  3. Not sure how much the names will help in a search for more of these NK colors due to how long some have been out of production. Pretty unlikely that much NOS remains. The three on bottom row with dots were all factory colors. The one on the left in bottom row is doctored with a black marker. Best bet is hitting the flea markets/tackle swaps in off season. I worked a couple shows this spring for vendor that had the Nk’s from the new Canadian owners and they have brought back some old favorites colors along with more models like C4’s. Added a C4 with copper back for walleye guys. Nice to see these spoons back in production. I have a bunch of originals I plan on keeping.
  4. Think you will find many manufacturers use the same engine for different horsepower ratings in the small portable class. I have an 8 horse Honda and it is same engine as 9.9 Honda just rated at lower rpm. Suzuki uses same basic engine for 9.9 to 20 horse. 9.9 is probably most popular size in under 15hp so used your chance is probably best with 9.9. You definitely want a 2 cylinder over a single plus many 8’s and 9.9’s have charging systems.
  5. Lund and Crestliner (both owned by Brunswick) at the top of most lists of national brands. I have a 2021 Lund Pro Guide and have been very happy with it. It’s my third Lund and all have been good performers. Easy to sell when replacing.
  6. Currents do funny things with pancake weights. Sounds like you are getting contact with another cable- downrigger or wire dipsey. Going to a torpedo shaped weight could help. You have something going on as normally coated cable lasts several years. If it isn’t your spread then it’s something on your rigger.
  7. To pull a 20lb weight and a probe with current Cannon rigger models probably an Optimum would be the best choice due to programmable retrieve speeds on that model. An issue when one discusses Cannon “Mag 10’s” is that model designation has been used for years in multiple different products with different specs by different owners of that company. Mag 10’s have been out in one form or another for 40+ years so knowing the specific model is very helpful. Early ones had a 10lb rating and current high speed ones are at 20lb.
  8. Have used a Depth Raider for 10 plus years. Updating some electronics now and updating to DR DRX10. Have to deal with coated cable and connections a downside. Cable reacts faster than Fish Hawk IMO. I’m still using my original probe so they do hold up. Fish Hawks more popular. Either unit should give good service- do you want another transducer/FH or do you want coated cable/DR.
  9. Rtrucking40 regarding ITO Flies. Ryan had a booth at the Niagara Show with quite a lot of product. I bought some coho/eye flies from him and he mentioned this was the 1st show for them in awhile. Check Facebook for him. Like a lot of small businesses I’m sure Covid made an impact.
  10. So you want to troll at 2+ mph and get “deep”? Regardless of what presentation you use a good solid rod holder is required. Not inexpensive, but at least today there are good choices from a variety of manufacturers. This is a good time of year to hit flea markets and used listings for guys swapping stuff around. Invest in a track system and buy as you get the $$$. Most of the track mfg’s interchange between brands. The proper gear saves money in the long run.
  11. Dave Wilczak from R&R is painting. I talked to him a couple weeks ago and he was planning to do Watkins Show. He had a knee replacement in the fall so he was laid up for awhile. He’s been doing a bunch of spinner blades for some guys on West Coast making salmon spinner rigs the last couple years.
  12. Do yourself a favor and do a barrier coat then bottom paint before you launch. Gel coat is porous and will absorb water which leads to chemical reaction in fiber glass causing damage. The barrier coat is important and will prevent a lot more labor in the future. Not a hard job just labor intensive with a lot of nasty sanding. Doing it right once is the way to go.
  13. Take a look at Adventure Marine’s kicker mounts as they make a set back model for 9.9’s.
  14. Great Lakes Skipper has variety of OEM boat parts. I’ve gotten some electrical switches from them for an older Lund. Believe they buy up non-current parts for resale. The only place I’ve seen for used boat part dealers is in Florida.
  15. mr 580

    for sale : usa 280 Baha Fisherman

    Post says sold in June 2017 - original poster never marked heading as “sold/closed” - that is a step missed by some posters even though instructions are provided.
  16. I have my riggers on a single circuit. Feed to 40 or 50 amp fuse block to on/off master switch then to junction block. Be sure and use heavy enough wires. IMO using junction blocks makes for cleaner rigging.
  17. A stacked rod refers to having a 2nd rod above your bottom rod on a single downrigger with each rod having a separate release so the rods are at different depths. A Seth Green rig is a single rod with a heavy weight that has multiple places to attach leaders for lures.
  18. The early Digitrol s did not have bottom tracking. They only preset depths and cycled. In those days electronics weren’t networked and there was no gps. Most guys used a combination of paper graphs and flasher depth finders. Navigation was LORAN. No cell phones either so the vhf radio was the source of information or disinformation depending on the source. Electronics have come a long way since those days. Guys have so much more information available today that what was available then.
  19. Salmonite, the pug you have pictured in your original post would typically be used as a battery charger plug so you could easily access it on bulkhead or some easy to get to spot with a 110v extension cord. It is not a shore power plug as those ends are completely different. Guys have used household 110 plugs, boxes and wiring for 12v riggers- it can work but not best practice as marine wiring is a better choice. If you find wire nuts plan on doing the wiring over with the right materials.
  20. You don’t necessarily need to replace that rigger right now if it functions with the switch. You can remove the keypad and caulk up the holes and continue to use it less the keypad. Those old and slow Mag 10A can continue to work especially if you stay with weights less than 10lb. Not many parts available and motors are especially hard to find. If it works use it-just don’t put much money into it. In the meantime you can be on the look out for something newer that can handle heavier weights.
  21. That is an original Digitrol- not sure when those were made but I know the Digitrol 2 was out in the mid to late 80’s as I had a pair. I don’t think you’ll have much luck finding a display as they haven’t bee available for at least twenty years. Guys kept them going by converting to standard Mag 10 and getting rid of display. Sounds like yours is setup that way with switch for up and down as Digitrol just used keypad.
  22. I really enjoy seeing the kids get involved. Great picture!
  23. Have had Cannon electric riggers since 1985 in various models including high speed models. For termination I’ve used Cannon terminators or Klinchers. On high speed models I’ve used Amish Outfitter Ball Snubbers. Zero issue with ball or probe loss. Replaced a couple circuit boards due to water intrusion and have corrected that. I understand being upset by loss of ball and/or probe and if I was in that situation I’d be looking to get a different result.
  24. The marina under the parkway bridge on the east side is an Orleans County Park not a NYS Park.
  25. I tried segmenting to put out different lengths- didn’t like the way the copper dragged in the water on the section between the boat and the board. All the different knots was a pain too. Quickly scrapped that idea. Just go with a length and let it all out.
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