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mr 580

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Everything posted by mr 580

  1. Back before the zebra mussels/clear water, we used to stack rods all the time. Walker made a green plastic angled device that was supposed to slide down. I never had much luck with it. In those days I had the best luck with a “snappy stacker” that was a black plastic slipped over cable and was locked with white plastic screw to cable and used a half hitched rubber band on line for release. Today I’d suggest one of the pinch pad stackers or just stick with a slider on one rod. Compared to the old days, today is fewer rigger rods with more dipsey/board lines for a wider spread.
  2. Your diagram is fine- but you would want your set back and weight the same for all three rods per side. That way as you reset you just slide down then put a rod in. That is a typical big board Lake Erie walleye setup with leadcore. We’ll use three 3 color on one side and three 5 color on the other. Now if your target is steelhead you might want to only do two per side- a hot steelhead can wad up a bunch of lines in a hurry.
  3. Not exactly sure what the question is here. Can you use in line boards from a 26’ boat- yes as GF describes above. Can you run three lines per side from a mast and planer board system - yes with distance limited by the height of your tow line. Once tow line hits water that is about how far out you can go. Can you mix an in line board in with a mast and planer board system- that is not a good idea- would be pretty hard to reset lines. So pretty much an either or situation. All in lines or mast and planer boards. Either is effective and depends on preference, boat layout and experience of your crew.
  4. Another recommendation for Chris’s Reel Repair. Chris is a fisherman and member of ELECBA. He does reels for many of the charter guys. He was shuffling reels around with guys at our Christmas Party this year. Good guy!
  5. For a 17.5’ a 8 hp kicker more than enough. 9.9 more common, but some mfg’s offer an 8 that is a “detuned” 9.9 and is a couple hundred less. Also pay attention to alternator size-electric start versions tend to have higher rated alternator. Lots of good choices in the little 4 strokes today.
  6. Have a new boat coming and will need to rig it. Items I’m looking at for electronics and trolling motor have been out of stock/back ordered from most vendors. Kept looking for weeks-if items came into stock usually gone in a few hours/days. Price MSRP. Did get the TM I wanted on a one day credit card offer of 10% off. Did find an in stock fish finder that I wanted for my main unit- still looking for a chart plotter 2nd unit to network. Not looking forward to finding all the pieces to put this boat together. I expect prices to be higher and the sales/deals few and far between.
  7. Bought a 4 year old Lund Pro V and ran it for 18 years-guided with it for 5 of those years. Never a leak or loose rivet. Sold it this fall to make room for a new Lund. Yesterday ran into some local guys that were interested in my charters-told them I was getting a new boat. They were surprised as they thought both my boats were “late model”. I believe how you take care of things makes a difference. Start with something good, take care of it and it will treat you right.
  8. I’m agree with SK8 that there are a lot of tools in the toolbox and you use them in different circumstances. I’m a big user of slide divers but I also know there is a learning curve with them and the same goes for wire. For people starting out learn one tool at a time-doing otherwise can result in lost gear(took me a while to learn this). To me slide divers offer the advantage of being able to adjust your leader length to whatever you want to slide the diver to. Really helps with spoons-flasher flies not so much. For Lake Ontario where you don’t have the small fish that won’t release, you don’t need the Light Bite version so if you setup a fixed leader on a Slide Diver it is the same as LJ dipsey. Use the tools for what they were designed for- slide diver works well higher in the water column with a longer lead as it’s dive curve is less than a dipsey. There are many ways to do things and learn what works for you- jumping from one tool to the next can get frustrating. Keep things simple change one thing at a time.
  9. The “opt in opt out” is at the county level so contact your county legislature representative. Also won’t hurt to let DEC know whether you are for or against as well. Another place where sportsman need to get involved is with there local county sportsmen’s federation. I’m involved with Chautauqua County Federation and like most need more involvement especially from younger sportsman.
  10. Sherman, for someone getting started using wire like Hounds IMO introducing other variables like using a slide diver just adds to the learning curve/frustrations. On Lake Erie I fish slide divers exclusively and go to the “Ultimate Weight Kit” on my inside divers usually in late August. I also use the Light Bite version for Lake Erie. I run 45’ to 50’ behind the SD’s. We don’t have flea issues out of Dunkirk so I use all braid all season. Lake Ontario is a different deal-you need to fish deeper, faster and with heavier gear plus the fleas are a much bigger issue. Lead length is less of an issue especially with flasher flies. Most days a regular dipsey will do as well or better than a SD. So for the majority of people using a dipsey and using wire is the best way to go. Once someone gets their diver program dialed in then slide divers can be explored for specific applications-example outside diver higher in water column with a spoon. SD’s have a learning curve of their own and I’ve seen a lot of people try them a trip or two then give up in frustration. Can get expensive trying to learn too much too fast. If you are losing gear take out variables don’t add them.
  11. Hounds, don’t try splicing diver wire. Cut out pig tails or bad spots. Wire comes in 1000 foot roll so you have plenty to remove before replacing. Most wear usually at end of the wire anyway- keep an eye on it. If you figure the cost of a roll of wire vs the loss of a diver, flasher, fly and terminal tackle then the wire cost is peanuts. With just 5 trips with wire, use the advice you’ve got from this thread and continue the learning curve. The benefits are worth it.
  12. It is worth the time to learn how to use wire. Keep it under tension and cut out kinks. Keep drag loose when setting- just at “line creep”. If you are breaking off on release loosen drag or add a clear snubber. Use a reel with a good smooth drag. Stick with a regular dipsey while you learn how to use wire. Get comfortable with a basic wire setup before trying options like slide divers-another learning curve. Kings find the weakest link so focus on where the problems are coming from. With some work and time on the water, you should see the value of wire.
  13. Don’t believe you’ll find many people using mono for divers. Before braid and multi strand wire were available, we used to use mono and even 30lb was a PIA due to stretch. If you want an alternative to wire go with 30lb braid- it is more forgiving than wire with the downside that braid and fleas are not good partners. You can leader from the diver with your flasher with mono or preferably fluorocarbon. For depth wire is the clear winner with divers. Braid divers work well higher in the water column.
  14. Probably the angle of your photo made tongue appear longer. I have a Venture tandem a couple models up from yours I’ve had since 2008 that has been fine. Are their “ better” trailers out there -yes, but the Venture has worked for me. If I had a situation like yours I’d suggest taking the time to weigh your setup fully loaded as you tow it to make sure load center is correct and not overloaded. Printed spec sheet weights often are understated and don’t include full fuel/water plus what we add in trolling gear puts on the pounds. Weighing takes some time, but might save a second problem. Hope you don’t have future problems.
  15. Is that a longer tongue due to camper? Wonder how that effects load position? Might be worth the time to have it scaled. With a longer tongue, it might mean axles need to come forward to balance load. With a low mile failure worth doing some checking.
  16. Couple years ago I shot a 2 1/2 year old male bear. The taxidermist I used suggested I get summer sausage, Italian sausage, ground and some steaks. Meat was OK and we eat it. Would I shoot another one - no thanks - I checked bear off my list and one was enough.
  17. mr 580

    Sold / Closed Legacy -The 2021 Season-

    Joe, beautiful 10 point. Impressed with your dedication in spite of being down physically. Glad your efforts were rewarded.
  18. If the shop didn’t want to work on an Johnson they did you a favor by telling you upfront rather than halfway through the job. Likely they have had some bad experiences with Johnson/Evinrude. OMC went bankrupt in early 2000’s (twenty years ago) and BRP didn’t do the brands any favors especially in how they shut it down a couple years ago. Best bet get your own parts, check out some You Tube video’s and do it yourself. Outdoor businesses have been swamped last couple years- try to get a boat or a motor. Not surprised shops can pick and choose.
  19. For downriggers I’ve always used backer material and fender washers. Without knowing the thickness of the material on your boat it is hard to say for sure but backer material never hurts. Some aluminum boats have pretty thin gunnel material. Looks like your boat has rails for mounting t brackets- it might not hurt to tie into that as well. A downrigger with riser, swivel base, long arm and heavy weight in rough water can put a lot of stress on mounting. Might consider longer track section too as that would spread load.
  20. Couple things to consider. What shaft length do you need for the Islander to keep TM in water? Also what do you have for bow access as I believe the Ulterra has an on/off switch even though it self deploys? Also need access in case of a malfunction. Should go to 24volt power which means two more batteries or even 36 volt which would mean three batteries. Probably a doable project but pretty involved- a consideration if an I pilot is a must would be a boat swap to a bow rider, center console or a bow style with better bow access.
  21. Think you would quickly find that putting boat in neutral with planer boards and one/two lines out would fall in category of “bad idea”. Better to idle boat in gear and if still fast then slow down by putting out trolling bags or 5 gallon buckets. Years ago when I trolled with an I/o I would use 2 buckets when trolling and when I was hooked up had 2 more to toss out to slow down. Much better to land fish with some forward momentum.
  22. Cutter, scroll down about 10 topics and this question was discussed in a topic titled “kicker question” by Phil 2. Answer with a picture of a Honda on a Tiara with kicker tied to rudders.
  23. Simrad Drive Pilot for hydraulic steering with Precision 9 and Nac1 installs easily and is controlled with Simrad Go Series or several Lowrance units. Pretty much the same AP as the Lowrance hydraulic steer unit but has the Precision 9 upgrade which shows up when it gets “sloppy”. Holds dead steady at trolling speed into the wind.
  24. 20” inch shaft is considered as “long” and is fine. The 25” inch are normally referred to as a sailboat model or “extra long”. For horsepower a 9.9 should do all you want on a 21 foot to troll.
  25. Check wiring and connections- Ulterra’s are voltage sensitive. I’d look close at the plug-I’ve been told that a Battery Tender brand plug is a good one to use on that model TM. Check voltage to see if in spec.
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