rolmops

I have 41 inches of brand new 1 1/2 inch diameter fuel filler hose left over from replacing the hose on my Islander Normal price is $15 per foot. My 3 foot 5 inches goes for $30. This would be a good length for 16 and 18 foot boats with metal fuel tanks If you have the 1980s fuel lines you may want to consider ethanol resistant hose like the one that I am selling. Cornelis.

Like Don said. SMC metal on the corner of Mount Read and Buffalo road in Rochester reopened and they have a bin of left over pieces of aluminum ( 3/4 inch by 4) and other sizes close to that. You can find your mounting plate in that bin for real cheap compared to anything else on the market. Cornelis

You replacing your rotten transom,probably did not add a whole lot of weight to the boat,but it certainly changed the angle (trim) of your outboard quite a bit. You should try to bring the trim up or down a bit and see if the problem persists.

I go there almost every year! Nickerson State park is the best ,the cheapest and the most Boat friendly place to camp,but you must order your spot now. It has several ponds where you can canoe or swim or fish if the sea is too rough.It has easy access to both the Ocean and the bay.No extra charge for boats,the showers are free,the camping spots are large and it has a camping store with reasonable prices.Your overall expense will be about a third of what any other camping will cost and it is way better! As for fishing, if the bay is too rough,you can go to the ocean or the other way around. In August you will not do too well on the stripers,but the blue fish is very good and so is the bonito and if you have a good boat you can run up Stellwagen bank for tuna or cod! One year we jumped over to the bank and got stuck in a huge pot of whales feeding all around us. Go and enjoy!

Guys, do not advertize your e-mail like that.For all you know, this is a harvester robot getting your address in order to drown you in spam.

Dump a can of a stabilizer called "Seafoam" in it, that will seriously extend the fuel life time expectancy.Seafoam will create a one molecule thick layer of insulating material that prevents the gas from reacting to the outside air. Also it is important to either have the tank full or empty, anything in between will leave room for condensation of water into the bottom of your tank and reacting to the ethanol. If you intend to pump the gas out,make sure everything is grounded out and of equal electric charge. Static electricity is enough to create a spark and disaster. Heck I would not come near this process with an electric pump.

As of 5 in the AM it is snowing in Brighton.

Let's go out,surf's up!!

Scardinius erythrophthalmus That's the Latin name. Sorry but I don't know what it is called in English. It is a member of the carp family. I used to catch them in Holland when I was a kid.

I had the same problem and used aluminum on the inside glued on with 3M 5200 and kept in place by the glue and the wood transom. If you do any repairs like that, it is an opportunity to add a heavy piece of wood on the outside. You can screw your transducer onto the wood instead of drilling a new hole into the hull.

Hello Tim.You're not alone in your troubles. Just today I took the rotten transom out of my Islander and continued with removing the flotation foam.One side is done so far. The foam only weighed about 300 pounds!! Tomorrow the other side is going to get get ripped out. All of this after having changed the rings and gasket on the engine. The truth is that I enjoy this putzing around just as much as being on the water.

About that leaking along the keel plate.If you want to know exactly where it comes from you can add some food coloring to your testing water.It will show up where the leak is and it will leave a color/water trail after it is dry. Fixing it is one thing,preventing it from happening again is another. It may help a lot if you raise the side supports on your trailer a bit,just so that there is less pressure on the keel while trailering. PKomrowski,I remember the pics you posted on I-Boats of the Dive Wench. Now that is a nice looking Islander.

It is a blessing to be able to see your daughter succeed in a chapter in her life. In a couple of years she will blow your mind with her new achievements!

Are there any zebra mussels in your intake?

Keep those pics coming, they tell a great story!

I talked about the same question with an engineer friend. He told me that any 1/2 inch plywood if it is well painted (2 or 3 layers) will last for 10 to 15 years. That being said, an 18 foot boat floor is not always flat.It often comes up from the sides to the middle (don't ask me how I know) and in that case it is very hard to screw the 1/2 inch boards down, a good way to go then,is by using two 1/4 inch layers which you lay down one after the other. That way you will not have any problems with the curving.

The Gluvit will work a lot better if you warm up the area where you apply it. As for difference in metals and the electrolysis problems, the good I-boaters (I am one of their admirals) have a point where salt water is involved, but in fresh water and with anodes there is no corrosion of the stainless or the aluminum. Even in salt water the stainless steel bolts are routinely used which is fine as long as the anodes are in good shape. Are you spraying the bedliner onto wood? If so,let me know how it works out.

You will find it quite hard to draw the rivets tight enough to stop the leaks. Aluminum boats use rivets that are airplane grade,not Home Depot grade. Unless you have some serious riveting tools,you might as well forget it. Another way to do this is,is using fine threaded stainless steel truss headed Philips bolts with washers on the nut side and the nuts with the nylon inside.Make sure that the bolts are the same width that the rivets are and have a friend help you tighten the bolts on the inside of your boat. Usually the 3/4 or 1 inch long bolts are fine to work with. You can literally exchange every last rivet with a bolt on your boat using this trick. You can dip every bolt in "M5200" to make sure there are no leaks. A cheap place to get the bolts is "Herbs fasteners" just off Lyle ave in Rochester Herbs Fastener and Supply, Rochester NY 14606 Herbs.Fastener.and.Supply.585-254-7640... Herbs Fastener and Supply is located at 389 Lombard St Rochester, NY. Phone: 585-254-7640. . Even when you use this system ,it is still a prudent idea to use "Gluvit" in the leaky areas. Good Luck.

Has anybody ever done research on the way the laker's digestive system works? Some land animals (ostridges) need stones in their digestive system. I'm just wondering if certain fish need something simular.

You can have 5 lakers in your creel.

Here is a site that explains everything about the Garelick. http://www.garelick.com/files/12.185.pdf If you mean the bar that goes on the front from engine to engine,it works fine as long as you have both engines on the transom. It is quite simple and it is cheap.But if you have the kicker hanging from a bracket, you cannot use the stearns bar,instead, you must have an EZ Steer setup.

It will work just fine. That is a 2 stroke on a 4 stroke bracket. If you try a 4 stroke on a 2 stroke bracket you hang too much weight on a bracket that is not build for that sort of weight.

That would would mean that you are no longer allowed to have a beer can holder on you your yard machine.

Either that or some leadcore.