Jump to content

Kicker mounting FOR DUMMIES


Fishstix

Recommended Posts

I am planning on mounting a new HT8 hp Yamaha on my boat.

I am going to do a picture as I go series . Just to let people know

of mistakes that can be made trying to make this work properly.

I am going to use a fixed mount bracket that I ordered from the

left coast. In other boats Ive had those spring up hinged contraptions

I had a guy cut his finger off trying to get the motor up.[No Stinger I dont have pictures of that]. The new motor I am installing has power tilt.

I have to get the bracket mounted so I can measure and see if I need

a long or extra long shaft. Also I will be setting it up for remote control.

First mistake....

My boat came from the factory with four bolts in the back for mounting

the kicker bracket.I got online and found the dimensions and pictures for

a fixed mount kicker bracket.I got the aluminum cut . I was going to take it and get it welded and just for the hell of it I held the pieces up to

the bracket holes and it would not fit.TOO SMALL OF MOUNTING PLATE.

I did not realize that there are different size bolt patterns for different

kicker brackets.

1st mistake $120 bucks,dam aluminum's high

Fixed mount bracket welded and powdercoated,$326 delivered to my door.

Pictures coming soon.

Any one who wants to add, jab or ask questions please feel free to.

This is supposed to be a fun thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fishstix - What size aluminum did you use & where'd you get it? Sounds like a great place to stay away from.

Yrs ago I made a solid bracket for a 7.5 merc on a 21 ft PennYan. I used white oak but lined the outside with welded 1/4" aluminum. Lasted over 8 yrs & was still going strong when I sold the boat.

Tom B.

(LongLine)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Two pieces of 1/2 inch one is 9 1/2" x 7 "other is 10""x12".

Two pieces 10 1/2 " x 9 1/2 " 3/8 thick.

I wont mention where I got it over the crap I got for my" places I wont do business with thread"

Live and learn.....Its OK to lose.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess I wont have any pictures or be able to finish my thread. My computer with photoshop and all the goodies is broke again.Im in no real hurry to get it fixed either. A little progress report . Ive got the fixed bracket temporally mounted.I have to remove it to caulk it up as its to cold for caulk now. The measurement from the top of the bracket to the waterline is 24" That means I need a long shaft kicker.It puts my cavation plate 1" below the surface. My throttle and shift cables are 18ft. The dealer says measure the length and add 3ft. for gradual loops. I will also be adding a hour meter. Its supposed to be a easy add in .Yellow wire in the harness to the meter ,then back to ground.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I noticed you said the top of your backet is 24"s above the waterline, and that a longshaft kicker would put your cavitation plate 1" below the waterline. That would work out to a 25" shaft, which is usually refered to an extralong shaft, or a sail motor. A normal longshaft motor is 20"s between the top of the bracket and the cav plate. I have a Yamaha 9.9 Sail motor, and it's a 25" shaft

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

kickup2.jpg

I am still having problems with my computer . How ever I can still throw up a couple images of my completed installation.This is one of those fixed brackets I mentioned.Must be mounted back so the motor can tilt foward and not hit back of boat or damage cables,Needs room to turn with those cables back there also.

kickup1.....................jpg

I spent a weekend figureing out a steering link. I wanted one that hooked to the front of the motors that I could just put on and take off easily.Had troubles with the angles. Turning to the right with the kicker so far back it almost made a straight pull on the kicker motor.So I ended up hooking the link to the extreme right hand side of the kicker. I also drilled and tapped the lower housing on the big motor. The circles on photo are steering link hookup points. Steers to the right as well to the left perfictly now.

Looking at it now I probably should have taken a picture with the steering link installed.I ran this setup 3 hrs last Sunday. My voltmeter seemd to stay up ok ,It ran well off the autopilot. I had to lengthen the downrigger arm to get it between the motors,Its going to be a pain but it will work. So far Im happy with this setup.Time will tell.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...