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Total Chaos

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Everything posted by Total Chaos

  1. I don't think there'd be a problem running it as a free slider but I like to have it in the fish zone. Usually this time of the year the band of cold water is pretty tight so running a free slider seems like a waste of time. As for stacking, I do it the same all the time. I run 2 riggers and they will be angled back and to the side. Therefore my rod on the bottom will be to the outside and the stacked rod will be to the inside. The bottom rod will always be run shorter. Sometimes the bottom rod will get caught in the top rod when a fish hits but not very often. It's actually a standard setup for me to stack rods even in the spring. Total Chaos
  2. Stacking is the only way I run my plugs. Usually 15 or 20ft above the flasher fly and 35-50ft back. They'll dive some on their own so if a King comes up to the flasher/fly and doesn't like it and drops back there's a plug swimming by in short time. Usually takes a few fish this time of the year. Total Chaos
  3. A can of Krylon flourescent green paint works fine. Or if you have some WTP tape you can use a hole punch and cut out dots and stick them on there. I use the tape method myself and it works fine. I have used the Krylon but the tape is easier. Total Chaos
  4. The rage about broadheads continues, no pun intended. Every year this question comes up and every year it's the same answers. So as like years past here's my answer. Personally I shoot Rages and love them. I've lost 1 deer with them but not because of them!! I've shot at least a dozen deer with them. I've shot deer from NY to Illinois so I have some knowledge about them. First I'd say don't put Rages in the same catagory as over the top mechanicals like Rockets or Wasp and the likes. They aren't the same animal. Over the tops are garbage. They rob kinetic energy and deflect on quartering shots because of the way the blades ratchet out upon deployment. They leave a small entry hole and if you don't get thru the blood trails are poor. A Rage doesn't work like that. The blades open as they enter not once they're in like over the tops, leaving a nice hole and if you don't get thru you still have a decent blood trail. I question ever time I see someone say a rage deflected on a quartering shot because I've never seen it myself. The whole concept doesn't make sense with the way the blades deploy. To me something else went wrong if you had a deflection, namely poor shot placement. I once shot a buck quartering so sharply that I had to enter thru the front of the ham and angle all the way thru the body and broke off the opposite front leg and just poked out of the hide. No deflection there! That brings up the next issue. Bow weight, arrow weight and arrow speed. I suspect a lot of issues with the Rages are due to inadiquate bow setup. I shoot a 500 grain piledriver arrow, it's going thru whatever it hits. I shoot 70lbs at 28.5" draw. My kinetic energy is stout to say the least. I sacrafice some speed but I'd rather have the kinetic energy. The guys shooting IBO arrow weights are the ones who will have the issues. Speed doesn't makeup for arrow weight and its a proven fact. I have shot right thru a shoulder blade more than once. Last year I shot a doe almost straight down and managed to clip the spine and a shoulder blade making it out the bottom of the deer. That Extreme Rage cut a massive hole. Yes the blades were bent and twisted but the thing did the job. The next thing I see is that the blades pop open during flight. Again this has never happened to me. That said I have had them open in the quiver. Which leads me to the statement self inflicted. I pulled the arrow out at such a way that the blade caught the side and open, my fault. I've also been guilty of playing with the blades and not seating back in the o-ring correctly, again my fault. We have a natural curiosity of seeing how things work and then not putting it back the right way, it's human nature. The new lock collars work way better at holding the blades closed than the o-rings did. I will say that the blades do rattle a bit with the lock collars that I wish they didn't. I did try o-rings with the lock collar overit last year and that seemed to work. I only shot the 1 doe so the verdict is still out about how consistant it will be. As far as blades not opening again I've never seen it and find it hard to believe they don't just because of the design of them. I also know sometime ago they redsigned the blade where it hooks the o-ring and or shock collar. The original ones weren't as hooked as they are now which may have led to some premature blade opening but again I bet more was operator error after playing with the blades. As far as fixed heads reigning surpreme, maybe but my father lost 2 bucks to Muzzy heads so what gives? I'll tell you it was shot placement every time. 1 he shot quartering away and he hit the shoulder which deflected it into the neck and throat. I shot the deer 3 weeks later during gun season and I'll tell you he was dieing a long painful death. He lost another with a fixed blade Wasp that hit shoulder and didn't penetrate. Bottom line is #1, shot placement. Don't blame a head for your mistake. If you hit it right just about any head (even over the top) will do the job. #2, the correct bow setup for the head you're using. Lighter setups should be using a good cut on contact head. #3, try them all and make you own decisions on what works best for your setup and take other peoples advise with a grain of salt because you don't know the situation they encountered when the head failed. Did the deer turn at the sound of the shot causing what appeared to be a deflection. I've had deer react to the shot and the arrow took funky paths thru the deer that didn't make sense or seemed impossible for the position it was in when I shot. Was the bow/arrow to light for the head in use. I can tell you this, when I switched to the 2 1/4" cut Rage extreme it did not penetrate as good as the standard Rage because of the amount of matter it was cutting. It actually surprised me what it took to push that amount of blade thru an animal. When I use up my Extremes I will go back to the standard Rage because the penetration is just that much better. One last thing about the Rage is the security you get in knowing that on a borderline hit you're cutting a lot of material compared to a fixed blade head. I feel I would have lost a few more deer had I been shooting fixed blade compared to Rages with poor shots that I made. Again operator error. I didn't put it in the right spot but at least I cut enough and had a big enough hole to make it a recovery instead of a loss. Hope this was at least a good read for you. Again you make the decision on what's best for your setup and ability. I did and I choose Rage. Total Chaos
  5. I had a 1992, 2002 Trophy with the 150 Force that I bought brand new and it was junk. I had it back to the dealer numerous times and they could fix it. It won't troll so you'd need a kicker. It will just foul plugs like crazy. The fuel delivery sucks. 3 carbs for 5 cylinders just doesn't work. It needs constant tuning. It's gutless as well. I don't know where they get 150 hp from but it can't be at the prop. I wouldn't do it if I were you. Total Chaos
  6. Freebird, where are you getting $25 from? It's been $30 for at least the last 3 years and $30 to $40 is only a 30% increase!! ProTrolls have gone up $3 this year. Spoons and Rapalas have had substanial price increases as well. I haven't seen you bashing the tackle companys or tackle shops for that. With the reduced price in gas this year from last you should have easily saved the $40 needed for the derby. If the entry fee doesn't fit your budget then don't fish it but there's no reason to bash the derby for it. Total Chaos
  7. Wow if you're that cheap just give up fishing!! $40 isn't nothing nowadays. Couple weeks ago I broke off a diver and that cost me $40 in lost tackle. I didn't think twice about replacing it and I bet you don't either. Bottom line, with a chance to win $25k it's a drop in the bucket for me. I've been fishing the derby since 1991 and It's more than paid for itself with a 2 place salmon in the fall of 2005, a 20th place salmon in the spring of 2006 and the LOC grand prize in the fall of 2013. You gotta be in it to win it!! Total Chaos
  8. I've sold 5 boats privately and 4 sold in July and 1 in August. So I'd say summer. Total Chaos
  9. I had an 86' 140 vro had similar issues. It was always the carbs being plugged. As stated earlier you can't always see it. Choke cleaner in every orifice was needed numerous times. Also may want to check your fuel ball. I had one go bad and it would suck closed and restrict fuel flow. Fuel lines could be bad. Those motors didn't have the new stuff that's resistant to ethanol. You could also have debris in your diaphragm fuel pump. Just some more things to check that you didnt want to. Total Chaos
  10. last bump, don't miss out on a great boat.
  11. A friend of mine recently lost his fishing partner and now the wife wants to sell the boat. I don't know the person but my friend says the boat is mint so I thought I'd list it on here for her. It's a 2005 17ft Lund Alaskan tiller with a Yamaha 50hp 4 stroke. I'm told low very low hours. Shorelander trailer with fenders and a spare. A Lowrance Elite 7 GPS/FF and a Garmin 250. Motorguide wireless electric motor. A stand up rod rack and numerous rod holders. There's other accessories as well but I don't know what they are. I took pics of pics with my phone so they aren't the best but by what I'm seeing it looks brand new. Always garage kept. The asking price is $11000. I know nothing so please don't contact me if you're interested. Call 518-797-5158.
  12. Why not run a copper down the chute, that's what I do. I have the same setup, corner riggers and I either run cores or copper down the middle. Total Chaos
  13. Friend of mine was out yesterday and was 9 for 18 with a 12 and 13lb Brown. Lots of marks and bait. Not sure why some guys are struggling. Total Chaos
  14. Thanks Steve! Yup someone always has to ruin a good thing. The spammers were so bad I just got sick of it. Couldn't block them fast enough. Brian
  15. The boards I bought was 1"x6"x8' but they have other sizes. They were 3/4" thick. Staples go right in no problem. The thin plywood that was rotted on yours was probably luan. That's what was under mine from the factory. I'm no expert but mine came out nice. I hand sewn all of mine because I just couldn't fold the material around good enough to make me happy. Other than that its fairly easy to do it and it saves a ton of money. Total Chaos
  16. Forget the pressure treated boards use the nice pvc board they sell at Lowes. It's lighter and doesn't absorb water. If you need foam buy it on ebay. I used 4" closed cell foam as that doesn't retain water either. The vinyl and trim I got from greatlakesskipper.com. SS staples are a must. I built 3 for my Baha for about $100 and they look sharp. Total Chaos
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