Frisco

Any info would be appreciated here, I'm looking at Monday and/or Tuesday wherever I can launch! Thanks

Anyone who installs an AP in a hydraulic system should check on the availability of necessary hoses and fittings before the unit is purchased. As mentioned Seastar hoses are very expensives and the lenghts available start with 2' lengths which in my case with a 20' boat and limited space made it extremly difficult. I contacted every major trucking outfit from Binghamton to Long Island that could make up hoses without success so it was back to seastar and after complaining about the special threads and lack of small lenghts they made hoses for me. Also take into account a special thread sealer was recommernded which was about $50 for the tube,thread tape cannot be used. Installing the unit was fun & painless however trying to get hoses made up for a small boat was a nightmare.

Custome Hydraulic from Ship Yard Marine 1 800 213 3323......... this contact I received after my install was complete! They will make the hoses, I had to order mine from Seastar. This part was the most painful part of the install. I searched for weeks to buy the threads locally. 1000psi WP 5000psi burst 5/16†OD Lowest available expansion factor possible SeaStar threads are that of 9/16†x 24 UNEF

As for the Garmin the pump can be installed by the helm or in the stern, I've also heard good things about the simrad 2043 however I did own a Simrad AP 12 which I would stay away from. The Raymarine X5 puts mechanics back into your system, with a pump system you can steer with one finger. Whichever one you decide on buy a cgood one and print out the installation before the purchase so you are familiar with it, mine is on a 20' Lund so it's doable on a small rig.

I agree with spoonfed..........I've been that route..... buy a good unit. I've had 3 Raymarines, one Simrad, and a Garmin........you get what you pay for!

I recommend a unit with a pump. I had a Raymarine X5 on my Lund which has hydraulic steering and IMO it took away the smooth part of hydraulic steering, it fact it made it quite cumberson. There are several units out there, I installed a Garmin GHP 10 which I'm very pleased with, however there are other units that others have rated highly.

Ditto here......even though I'm active in the winter they come out nightly!

I installed my own because I couldn't find one either! It's tricky but doable. I happy that I did it myself so now I have a good understanding of the system which I think you'll need! I would be more than happy to give some advice if that's the route you take. PM me if interested and I'll give you my cell #. Ken

I suggest staying away from a mechanical unit if you have hydraulic steering, it takes away the advantage of hydraulics. I've had Simrad, Raymarine, and Garmin AP. Put auto pilot in the search box there's plenty of advice. I currently have a Garmin GHP 10 but I've heard good reviews on the Simrad 2403. Regardless which one you pick print out the install directions to see if it' something you want too install yourself. They are pricey but it needs to be installed correctly it's well worth it. Don't hesitate to PM me if you need more.

I've owned several AP and I suggest keep questions on this website there is a wealth of info from these guys. Don't cut yourself short on your investment get a quality unit that's been around and service/advice is readily available from the factory. Is it necessary to have your kicker tied through your main motor if not the Garmin TR is am excellent unit which controls only your kicker. Raymarine x5 has a unit that has the motor on the helm and controls both motors if they are tied together, but there has been issues with longevity on the motor. I cut myself short several years ago with a Simrad AP12 because of the price, the unit is now no longer on the market and parts are not available so research the units and ask many questions according to your needs.

From a customer service view on all their products Garmin is heads above Lowrance. Whenever I'v dealt with Lowrance it was a nightmare!

If the connector was hot with the lights off it shouldn't be a poor connection problem because there isn't any load or amps involved. I would check for a ground on one of the hot legs of the trailer and there is a good chance that there isn't enough fault current generated to trip the fuse causing excessive heat. Identify which terminal is the ground for the trailer. Unplug the connector and test across the prongs with a 12v test light, if the test light comes on any of the wires feeding the lights it will identify a ground where there shouldn't be one.

I had metal plates made at a fabricating shop, they are bolted to the track under the gunnel. They were inexpensive. I use otter boards off big jon down riggers, just tip up the mast and with otter boards there is little stress on the masts. I have an extra pair of reels in case I choose to use the rigger and not the planer boards.

Same thing here Andy 120' water 10 to 25' down we keep adjusting to the 44 degree temp

Isolate the batteries & use 2 trickle chargers, I have a perko switch between mine and keep it in the open position isolating the 2 batteries, If one fails I can close the perko it to use it as a jumper.

Had both..........either one will do the job! On the Merc there isn't a oil filter but there is one on the honda, for what it's worth. The only difference I've seen in cold weather the Honda's idle has to been minimal but the Merc has to have higher idle to start in cold weather. Both issues are insignificant however if the prices are similar I would go with the Honda.

Anybody check it out this weekend?

I would recommend using separate bateries. Keep in mind that both motors have alternators that charge at different levels depending on what level the batteries are. Serious problems could exist with different voltages in regards to voltage sensative equipment in the OB or other devices. At no time should you be running the motors at the same time. Both my OBs have separate batteries with a switch between them in the open position if one is dead I simply close the switch and it acts like a jumper. At my electronics are off the kicker which uses the most hours.