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Everything posted by Sk8man
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Probably with kids the best bet is with bobbers as described above so they can easily see the activity on it. The gills are usually in close as noted by longspurs but I was there last week fishing for walleyes and saw some folks catching gills one right after another about a mile north of the launch in 26 ft of water with bottom rigs so you may have to look around a bit too. Worms can also work with a variety of panfish there either fished a foot or so off bottom with a sinker at the bottom or using the bobber rigs. Sometimes casting in toward docks along the way can work too either drifting to find them or anchoring up and trying to attract them in casting around the boat. If using worms use small pieces if nightcrawlers are used . They are especially fond of the little red (manure worms) worms. You may encounter a couple of pest species as well such as rock bass, largemouth bass and dink perch along the way too such as largemouth bass but kids usually are happy to catch about anything anyway. There are huge gills and Crappies in there if you can locate them. Good luck. It can help to use light lines and with kids I'd be going with 6 lb test or so 4-8 size hooks. If using sinkers about 1/4-5/8th oz.
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I hate to say it but the service you mentioned may be OK now but a few years back they were compromised and I was someone affected so trhere are no guarantees and anyone who does heavy financial or banking stuff over the Internet is asking for trouble at some point because even if the instiutions server is secure your own computer may not be and you may have something like a zombie bot install a keylogging program (everything you type can be viewed remotely on someone elses screen) and all your account information and passwords may be owned by someone in China or Russia or Brazil etc. who then empties your accounts and your antivirus program may never even realize it especially if the program or virus is newly crafted. The hackers are way ahead of the government and the antivirus folks so if you aren't after the "fix you're screwed. Banks and any other institution can be hacked and have been (CIA, NASA, White House, Pentagon NSA etc.but you don't hear about it from the banks and big companies because they don't want the business impact of it falling on them. Services like that mentioned are particularly vulnerable because they are hooked up to bank accounts and debit cards etc. so not only can your credit card be affected by a compromise but this other stuff as well. Apparently even the drug cartels (less chance of getting caught and less sever punishments if caught) are involved now in credit card fraud, bogus income tax filings, exploitation of deceased folks SS accounts and who knows what else so it isn't just the kids with too much time on their hands doing the hacking now its PROS from foreign governments and professional criminals who do it 24/7 and 365.
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Hopefully this is a learning experience for all of us. These transactions involve trust at several levels and it is essential to maintaining the general trust as well as personal trust that each end of the "bargaining process" is honored once a commitment has been made. One's word should be more binding than money. Money can be replaced but sometimes trust cannot be restored. Lets hope this is not one of those situations. We also have to insure that everyone fully understands the dimensions of the specific transaction before "sealing the deal"
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Attwood makes a portable (e.g. backup) bilge pump for about $50 (proably places like Walmart) that is run on D cells and I made a hose from a garden hose to go over the side. The portability is nice because you can use it anywhere even on a friends boat with a questionable bilge.
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I have used gimal mounts on my Whaler for 14 years and have never had one single issue or problem with them. I used the Cannon gimbal mounts and they are very solid. I use four of them frequently and if there was some weakness it would have shown up long ago. You just have to make sure the inserts in your gunwales are solidly made and deep enough. My 4 electric plugins are located right nearby so I can switch out downriggers if a potential problem arises with either a connection or downrigger etc. ....never a problem either. I also use outrigger holders out of 2 of them with 4 rods for wire rigs and Seth Greens.They are VERY flexible in terms of usage. The pic below is from a while ago but in the downrigger holder is a Seth green rig with a 40 oz. sinker and 5 leaders so they can take a lot of strain too (as well as the standard Cannon rod holders A nice feature of this setup is that I can take the riggers on and off immediately and store them securely and when my boat is also used recreationally in the hot summer months. The only holes driilled in my boat were for the motor bracket, transducer and depth finder...otherwise you'd never know it is a fishing boat
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Sandy 6/23
Sk8man replied to Traveling Circus's topic in New York Fishing Reports - Lake Ontario (South Shore)
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If permitted there golden shiners on a bobber rig.....
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All you have to do is tell here "It was on sale" and she'll go for it
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http://www.mlive.com/weather/index.ssf/2016/04/researchers_find_tsunamis_on_t.html
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First of all I'd like to let you folks know that I have found Fishy to be wonderful in terms of dealing with and he is an honest fellow who goes out of his way to provide good service to the folks he is dealing with. I've done business with him on multiple occasions, and have visited his tackle shop. He recently ordered and then he even hand delivered an item to me by driving from Branchport to Canandaigua on just a promise that I would pay him on delivery. He also purchased and picked up some downrigger weights for a pal of mine at the Watkins Glen show earlier this year without being paid first etc. Fishy is a first class guy and merchant and sure doesn't deserve to get screwed in this way...it sucks. I will also say that I have done quite a few transactions with folks on LOU thus far and although the monetary amounts weren't huge I even have sent checks previous to getting the goods but luckily in each case I have dealt with very honest people and have been happy with the process. I have however had a couple transactions outside of LOU with Internet companies that have left something to be desired. I think it is very unfortunate that the exception to the rule can undermine trust in one another but letting others know who the people are that we need to stay away from in transactions is important. The old adage "Let the buyer beware" apparently is a still necessary caution but it sure doesn't help the person who is screwed over once it happens.
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Joe you might want to check out the reel capacity information provided by skipper 19 on here to make your determination and avoid problems. Here is one of the recent discussions. (There were more previously ) http://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishing-hunting/topic/58882-new-reels-for-copper-but-need-some-input/
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"Is it just a matter of a preset length of lead attached to the mono with the mono in the release?" YES Mr580 is right that you should familiarize yourself with just the standard setup and then mess around with other options. The stuff takes a little getting used to compared with regular mono setups etc. and you need to be very careful deploying it to avoid tangles. I have a few setups that were once 10 colors and now are 5's or 7's if that is any clue
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I only use SS single siwashes for spoons and the Mustad long points on them sharpen quickly and easily with a file actually just a couple strokes done triangularly toward the point and they are scarily sharp
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Alex said it right that is exactly what I was referring to.....smaller cone angle... should help
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:lol: Glasswater. I've always wondered about the differences in the signature whether it is the "whipping' motion of the leadcore or even the possible electrical conductance of the copper in water detected by the lateral lines of the fish etc.....very interesting topic on its own....haven't ever seen any actual reported research studies on it.
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Great day to not work
Sk8man replied to Jeremy Goodison's topic in New York Fishing Reports - Lake Ontario (South Shore)
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New reels for copper but need some input
Sk8man replied to Chas0218's topic in Tackle and Techniques
Marks (skipper19's) information can be "taken to the bank" and if anyone is puzzling through this stuff I'd go with it as stated. I guess I'm not quite as "patient" (or perhaps competent) tying knots however and I use #8 Spro swivels (50 lb test) for most connections as they go through nearly all eyelets and rod tips fine if using carefully tied or wound (wire) knots. I have also lived on the edge of the cliff with my fluoro leaders as I use 20 lb exclusively on my setups as I fish multiple waters and switch between copper and core rods a lot and don't feel like changing all the time although I also often use 12 lb on the Fingers . The one thing that is critical is the drags on the reels used because if there are any "sticky" spots on them with a big king especially on an initial hit or unexpected run the lighter fluoro can be "unforgiving" and if you try to get away with the cheap stuff is used it usually snaps at the knot or any slight undetected "ding" in the line. Something to keep in mind too is that the actual breaking strength of braid such as Power Pro is usually quite a bit stronger than stated if relatively new and in good condition (just try to break some 10 lb braid with your hands some time) so using 30 lb. should be fine for most applications if worried about space on the reel. Using the standard clinch knot with braid is not recommended by the makers of Power Pro by the way as it can slip at the knot. This can be minimized though by using an extra loop and cinching tightly and carefully if this is your "favorite go to" knot -
The main purpose of leadcore is to get the lure down into the range of the fish as it typically sinks about 5 ft.or so for each 30 ft (most of it different colored at 10 yd intervals) but speed can affect this greatly. There are many ways to run it and depending also on what you are fishing for (e.g. walleyes or trout and salmon etc.). Usually folks have various preferred setups that they feel work best in certain situations trolling (e.g. shorter sections in shallower depths nearer shore or up toward the surface out deep ( e..g. for steelhead etc.) Common setups are 3, 5, 7, and 10 colors but fishermen have all sorts of favorite lengths or backing combinations or weights to be attached to get them deeper). Leadcore can be run form boards but it can be important at what length and what particular board as leadcore has a lot of "drag" or resistance in the water. For example you wouldn't want to run a 10 color off the old small yellowbirds because the drag would sink them but that same setup could be run from big boards or perhaps large inlines like the Church TX44's. There is even a version I run sometimes off a downrigger that is either 1 or 2 colors called a secret weapon rig. It is very powerful sometimes and seldom mentioned perhaps on purpose Leadcore at longer lengths is often run straight back without boards or down the "Chute" (middle area at the back of the boat). A lot depends on what else you are running as say a 10 color can get into other stuff like coppers and it is a real mess to deal with when it happens but it is highly effective especially at certain times of the year when the fish are in the higher areas of the thermocline for example. Usually (but not always) single spoons or sticks are run from it. It is important to have a good amount of backing on the reel used typically braid such as Power Pro and this become quite critical when used on boards. You run the entire preferred section of leadcore out usually and attach the release on the boards to the backing. Some folks use a short section (s) of mono for this function spliced into the leadcore or braid backing. On the inline boards if using braid backing you'll want to replace the plastic pins at the back and possibly tighten down the jaws of the front release or wrap the braid around it a couple times to prevent "slippage wear"
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It is a pretty general question but although most of us are heavily into trolling for trout and salmon and sometimes for other species as well we sometimes tend to forget that natural bait live or dead is probably the most potent lure to be used regardless of species. I started out boat fishing by still fishing for trout and if you were to check on the results of many fishing derbies for numerous species over the years natural bait has caught many winners. Water conditions and wind speed and direction are even more critical however for doing it than trolling. I have never had any success with an east wind and drift fishing is limited to low wind and from the right direction so you have a long path to do it without hitting a shoreline. Anchoring up you need to locate usually near fish or schools of bait with fish nearby via your fish finder. In the old days it was done blindly based on suspected depths and with depth markings on the anchor rope.....creating Popeye arms on the anchor guy The Finger Lakes are still fished by quite a few folks using natural bait for trout and landlocks (mainly sawbellies fished on or near bottom either with slip sinkers or with slip bobber setups suspending the bait. These methods aren't used as frequently in the trollers domain of Lake O but they could work there as well if you know what you are doing especially with todays caliber of gear. If it was a matter of "survival" fishing it is what I would be doing to catch something to eat as it is much more conservative of gas and often time as well and requires little gear. Many of my fellow trollers have a disdain for it (some consider it boring or else an unfair advantage) but I think it is hard to argue that it doesn't work. If fishing for trout and salmon the commonly used baits are sawbellies (alewives), smelt (mainly Spring), Golden shiners, Emeralds etc. depending on water fished. Egg sacks have also been used successfully from piers and shore both on Ontario and the Fingers pointing up an additional fact that LIVE bait isn't essential always but the closer it is to natural and within the dietary range of the species it will work best. Salmon are not normally considered "bottom feeders" but lakers and brown trout feeders will pick up dead bait either suspended or laying on the bottom and especially the larger fish.
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Man... does that suck or what? but it was slow for us after the eyes on Honeoye too the other day. We went 8 hrs. with harnesses and sticks etc. and not one Walleye....couple largemouths and a big gill and that was it so even without the gobies it can be tough fishing for them









