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Everything posted by Sk8man
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I use the battery powered LED lights that stick on so I can place them wherever I wish along the sides and they don't have any impact on my boat batteries. I have the regular wired courtesy lights under the gunnels that came with my Whaler too but I seldom use them. I haven't night fished for quite a while so for the limited use I give them now e.g. early AM's they work fine and are less than $10 each in RV sections of stores. LED's are easy on batteries too.
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Erabbit good luck during the derby ...hope to meet up with ya in person maybe or see ya out there... tight lines!
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It seems as though it is a glitch in the firmware Andy. Might want to see if they have a current "fix" on their website. The techs there must have an idea from the sound of it...seems like a generic problem.....hopefully it isn't a hard wired design flaw in the main chip or board...
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Are you talking about the normal stainless steel stranded wire downrigger cable or something with a probe attached and coated cable etc.? To my knowledge you shouldn't be experiencing any problem either way if everything is shielded properly (e.g. no cracks or breaks in the shielding materials) and you have located your depth finder power cord and transducer wires as far away from other electrical sources as possible (i.e. not taped and run together for example). If you are referring to stuff that looks like interference on the depth finder towards the top or surface it could be normal "clutter" or possibly you have the gain (sensitivity) set too high or the position of your transducer may need to be changed (e.g. picking up prop turbulance).
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Hey Nick ....you have got to be faster...she's hammering ya Probably that combination of female intuition and lots of coffee again Nice fish ...great reports. I sure would rather be out there than moving all my daughters (and her roommates) stuff out of her third floor dorm to an upstairs apartment across town in Ithaca
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Something to try....get a can of Endust duster (aerosol spray for electronics) and spray it on the base of the housing where it screws on until the can gets very cold to the touch and then try unscrewing it or try placing one of those instant cold packs on it and then try unscrewing it. Sometimes the contraction of the cold metal will allow things to be separated.
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Umbrellas are much better used in salt water where they originated. I don't think I'd care too much about catching a big chinook on one ...would be pretty clumsy (if you got him in). I haven't tried them for many years for trout (lake trout) but in the past they weren't nearly as effective as Seth Green rigs or wire. They can be set up a variety of ways but the usual ways are either to put on 4 attractors on the outside connectors and an "active" hooked lure slightly behind them in the center one or to have five active "hooked" lures with the center one usually just behind the other four. The problem with the latter approach is that if a large fish hits one of the outside lures the umbrella "tips" and the other lures (depending on how they are set up and what they are) may get tangled and actually help the fish to get off. If you use very active lures on them you may only want to run just that rig because with multiple lines like dipseys etc. it can easily get tangled in the umbrella or vice versa.
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Reminder to Enjoy Every Opportunity -Carpe Diem
Sk8man replied to ReelPower's topic in Open Lake Discussion
Man...may you have a speedy recovery and tight lines when you get back in action. -
Yes and the three rod rule is currently in a bill in the works to be made permanent by the legislature
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Might want t check these out they look pretty good and fairly inexpensive http://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishing-hunting/index.php/topic/36167-forsale-custom-rod-holders/
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If it were me I'd make up a board to go across the back, and use Cannon pedestal mounts to go down each of the existing internal rod holders and mount the board to them. Use downriggers with telescoping booms. I'd also hinge the board on each side so could get to the back easily if I had to. You could place either a sliding track arrangement on the board for rod holders etc. as well as the downrigger mounts on the board and place them where you want them. The nice thing is that you don't have to modify anything already existing and the whole arrangement just lifts out. I don't have the board but I have drilled only one hole on my boat and that was for the fish finder wires in the dash everything else is removable.
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I use a secondary clip that has a very heavy duty duolock on one end and a metal thing that is used for catfish trot lines on the other and it clips very stiffly to the downrigger wire itself ABOVE my release and I also use the one that came with it worst case scenario is I lose the downriggger ball and release but not the TD. I wasn't about to trust something like that to plastic of any kind....sorry about your misfortune.... Here is what it looks like: (the lower clip) P.S. I do worry a bit however about the plastic on the unit itself long term
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Very nice! Sure was a heck of a season last year....hope this one isn't anti-climactic
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Help! First time with my new toy and it's all burnt out
Sk8man replied to Goatboy's topic in This Old Boat
I'm not real familiar with I/O's but if it were me the first thing I'd do is get it on dry land just to carefully look everything over and be able to get at everything easily and to be able to run someplace for parts without worrying etc. Working on the water on boats can be a real pain in the butt (unless you have no other choice). -
Reeltime1 you have a PM





