Sk8man

Welcome to LOU Jerry and best of luck with the fishing!

(Section deleted due to defective brain of the writer at the moment of writing- signed Sk8man) You can have a unit at the helm and one at the stern if a) your hull design and motor placement permit it (locate transducers away from sources of turbulence) and b) if the frequencies of the units are different enough to prevent interference or hijaaking of the return signal by one of the units. Although it may be possible to have two units operating at the same frequency on a very large boat (i.e. if they are located far enough away from each other and wired on separate sides of the boat on a large boat (and well shielded electrically). In a normal boating situation with a sport fishing boat it would probably not be a great idea to have both units at the same frequency. I'd select a transducer with a different frequency for one of the units.

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If all that doesn't work get the impeller checked out ....it could save you your engine....when was the last time you changed it?

Wow! That sure is a puzzle....and here I thought it was only my ex-wife that was so attached to gold!

Way to go Kevin! I haven't fished with flyrods for about 30 years but that sure sounds like a blast......I'm kinda stuck on the ultralights these days and tonight will be using them on walleyes on Honeoye Lake. There are also some big Crappies and Gills and Sunny's there.... Keep at it and best of luck.

I have 10 Stainless Perkos (among others) on my boat 6 of them on the front ss railing and I even run my 15 ft. outriggers off them without any problems. They are rail mounted so no holes to drill can be moved or positioned using small wrench. Can take them off the boat if you sell it ....without holes etc.

All you have to do is pry the level opening wind a little wider carefully with a screwdriver ...

Yeah I used to service my 1979 Johnson 35 myself but when I look inside this Optimax it looks like some alien planet

Mine went this year too as well as the impeller....what ever happened to the old motors that you just got in the boat and drove only worrying about going into shallow water and shearing off a pin?

How long has it been since the impeller was changed? Don't let the engine overheat....while getting mine fixed last week I saw one in the shop that blew because of the overheat.....it will be $6500 just for the parts for the guys boat....

I'll PM you.

The speed is dependent on a whole bunch of things such as what you are running for rods, the type of lures (spoons or stickbaits, the type of attractor, dipseys, wires.mono or leadcore, time of year etc. What I am getting to is that your speed is pretty much relative to your own boat/motor setup situation combined with the above and any currents you detect in the water you are fishing, and wind speed with or against you etc.. Someone could say fish for lakers at 1.8 mph and it means just about zero to your situation because of these variables. In the old days before the GPS and temp/speed metering devices they used a "gizmo" that had a wire with a weight attached to it which dragged in the water at the side of your boat and it was attached to a scale of colors (e.g. red being slow, yellow medium and green at high speed for example sake I don't remember the exact colors or sequence). As you increased your speed the the hand on the dial moved toward a certain color and when you caught a fish at that speed you put a mark with a grease pencil or small piece of tape exactly where you were on the scale. It was a measure of relative speed but focused on your particular boat and that particular species of fish so you learned the RANGE of speeds associated with actual catches of fish. That same principle applies here but with more specific metering of the surface speed on your boat. The long and short of it is that the best way to make the determination of the ranges is to do it with your own boat and use your own data to make your decisions, and speed at the depth is a more relevant measure if you have something like the Fish Hawk etc. to measure it . In general though lakers are usually caught at slower speeds with browns a little faster and rainbows and landlocks at higher speeds but nothing is cast in stone as you will discover I think the.5 mph noted above is quite a bit slower than usual laker speed...Change speeds often and go against or diagonally across currents and make "s" turns...I sometimes even "rock" my boat to change the action of the lure.

They work fine for dipseys if you have a medium rod. I use 30 lb 7 strand wire on mine and another with braid.

Question: Are you sure the Big Game line is 25 lb test? I've only seen it in 20 and 30?

It will work in terms of getting the copper on there but the reel itself is very awkward and clumsy because of its size and weight. Selecting a rod is also a problem because you are pretty much stuck with a boat rod to support it and even then it turns over in the rod holder and will drive you nuts In the old days I ended up using mine for my planer boards