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Sk8man

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Everything posted by Sk8man

  1. For the type of stuff you said you are currently doing a size 3 will cover most situations
  2. I've used a long padlock (like on a bicycle) through the holes in the clamps (aligned first) in my 9.9 and never a problem loosening up....and it is pretty secure other than from from a hacksaw.
  3. This is something that books could be written about but after 60 years of fishing for just about everything in freshwater and quite a bit in salt water I would say that for most lures especially spoons (heavy ones and flutter spoons large and small) you will want to use a swivel to help keep the line from twisting and to allow the lure to have uninhibited action. The key is using the smallest high quality ball bearing swivel you can get away with for a given lure that is still strong enough for the targeted species. Use single ring (soldered/welded ring) rather than split ring type to prevent line cut offs with large fish. For items like stickbaits (e.g. Rapalas, Smithwicks, and the like) a swivel like that just mentioned can be used but many folks PREFER to either tie them directly to the nose ring of the stickbait (often using a looped knot) to preserve the original intended action. If trolling (other than drifting or slow trolling) is desired you may want to opt for a swivel as fast speeds can generate line twist. Another avenue is the use of Fast snaps or Kwik clips for stickbaits which are little metal hook like things which ties directly to the line that allow you to change lures but they don't have a swivel function. I think that is basic "swivel 101" others may have additional info. Good luck with the fishing!
  4. Sweet! ...but on the downside...I think I'm glowing from looking into the open box
  5. I know this comment will probably tick off folks committed to heavy lines but for over forty years I used 12 lb test for all my downriggers, outriggers, thermocline leaders, and leads to dodgers, cowbell /flashers etc. on the Finger Lakes and Lake Ontario (salmon fishing included) and only had a couple "snap offs" and they were due to me forgetting to reset my drag and because I had used a ball bearing swivel with split ring. I changed over some of my rods to heavier lines a few years back only because of the FLEAS. A lot of guys on salt water catch huge fish on light weight and ultralight tackle including sharks on 8 pound test line.....its all about setting the drags properly, taking your time playing the fish, and if need be chasing down the fish and/or letting them tow the boat a bit. Most guys just want to leave all the other lines out and horse the fish in and not mess around playing the fish. Here's a pic of my son at 8 yrs old (back in the 80's with a 30 pound salmon he caught on 12 pound test line off one of my downriggers. I'm only trying to illustrate a point here not tick anyone off....sometimes we forget that it is mostly about technique not just the fancy tackle. P.S. I realize that with our wire rigs etc. it's a little different situation
  6. Andy, If you can get one like that for the derby this year you'll be in great shape
  7. If you don't have a heater it might be worth your while to RENT a commercial portable propane heater from a rental place if you have one nearby if it is affordable. The bottom line is that mounting that motor correctly is very important and it is one of those situations where you don't want to be in the position of later on saying to yourself "Why didn't I wait or take the time to do it right?" I can relate to wanting to get out there soon though
  8. Use the special MARINE STABIL it is about $20 and covers about 320 gallons> It is triple strength compared with the red stuff.
  9. I think you'll be a "happy camper" Kuba especially when you add up the saved fuel costs Good luck!
  10. A few things come to mind in addition to whats been said - 1) Try new plugs if they weren't brand new, and recheck the gap, 2) Was the fuel ethanol (water accumulates in it) gas? If so, put NEW non-ethanol fuel in your tank (at a marina?) and try it, That lean and rich mixture knob should be OK in the middle to start with until you identify other possible contributors. Check the fuel filter if it has one that is accessible to see if it is clogged. The mixture may have been too rich in terms of the 24 to 1 since it is a motor that has had some previous use I'd go with 40 to 1 as it is still in the ball park (esp. since you had that slick out back). If your gas line to the tank was old or stored for a long time it may have had old fuel or contaminated fuel in them that went to the motor and hasn't worked its way through the system. Try a new gas line. I'd do one thing at a time so you can see the results and hopefully identify the problem. If the engine sat for a long time the carburator may need to be cleaned by a competent mechanic. If the lean/rich mixture is set right you shouldn't have to mess with it much under normal conditions even when idling or slow trolling (but right now the temps are far from normal operating conditions).
  11. Keeping them away from the kicker or your main engine is always the PRIORITY. Other than at very slow speeds you will always experience a degree of "blow back" or angle to the wire on the riggers. As Don said you just have to "estimate" a little where they are in relationship to the counter and your depth finder....unless you are going very fast this will be close anyway. They will look different when you are going with, against, or diagonally across currents. Most of the time I keep mine at 45 degree angles to the transom but I have 4 ft. booms and an 8 ft wide transom also (without ever having a tangle). This also worked with these same downriggers though on my little 13 ft. Whaler and I never had a problem with the kicker or larger motor. If it is possible to extend the boom length somehow this could help out if you have trouble with that present location.
  12. Like the guys have already said there is no doubt that if you can find the Seneca perch it is the way to go but I had considered the above before making my suggestion about Cayuga. Seneca is a big body of water and you can spend all day looking for the perch if you aren't very familiar with it (especially the northern half of the lake which contains most of the shallow water. Fishing for perch in 50-60 ft. of water is usually not the most desirable or effective way to do it ( but i'll admit there are exceptions) The north end of Cayuga is shallower and has a much more defined weed growth and soft bottom which holds perch in more circumscribed areas than Seneca in the area I mentioned between the park and Canoga and it is only about 13-15 ft. out in the middle near the buoys. This lessens your time finding them considerably. There are some very good sized perch that inhabit that area especially toward Canoga (out from the cottages) and you don't have to travel all over the lake to find them either. Just something to consider. Good luck wherever you decide to fish as the little "greenies" often present a challenge even when you find them (especially in clear shallow water :>)
  13. Should do the trick Kuba,...good luck with things ...just hope that servicing is nearby if you need it down the road.That is the major reason I've stuck with Merc and Johnson over the years...always some marina that services them nearby and either has or can get parts right away. Some of the other makers parts are hard to get or take forever to arrive. I know you willbe happy with the gas mileage after using the bigger motor etc.
  14. Anyone heard whether they have finished it?
  15. If the ramp is open at the State Park at the north end (Seneca Falls) it might be worth a shot fishing the west side from south of the park to Canoga at the what would be the outer edge of the weeds 8-15 ft water till it drops off. Minnows and spikes
  16. You may already do this but you should run each spoon briefly at the side of the boat to get and idea of how your speed is affecting the action of them... some spoons need to be "tuned" and others the lead needs to be lengthened. At least it gives you an idea of how they are running at speed ( I know that it is not exact because of the depth difference and length of lead) I have found some spoons that I have had to either add a split ring or take one off too. I know some purists would never BEND a spoon but I've been doing it for many years on SOME spoons (e.g. Suttons, homemade spoons, and other light flutter spoons) to get the action I want but yes the spoon may work differently later on at a different speed. Another thing that could be a factor is hum from your downrigger cable spooking fish in the shallows at certain speeds. One of the things I've done for years is I attach a wine cork that has a slit up one side right on the downrigger cable near the boom and it seems to help "deaden" the noise and you can just take it on and off as needed or if you can't get to it in time it drops off at the head of the boom when it is reached without a problem. In the old days you could drink the wine too beforehand but I wouldn't do it nowadays
  17. If you use the small dipseys and set the setting PAST 3 the dipsey will often keep coming right out of the water and won't stay down...haven't tried doing it with the bigger ones so don't know there.
  18. Nice fish. Looks as though the lampreys are at it again too.
  19. Tuna's Reel Troubles reel repair has the carbon fiber replacement drag washers for them. He's real good about shipping quickly etc. http://stores.tunasreeltroubles.com/StoreFront.bok
  20. Cool! Its also very neat that your family goes with you....my wife fished with me while we dated but it ended as soon as we got married Luckily my son has been my fishing partner since 2 1/2 yrs old.,..
  21. Launch at north end of Canandaigua is open as of this afternoon.
  22. Neither do I but it will be on Seneca Kev
  23. Broadhorizons - Make sure that the measurement is for the same dimension that is inside diameter vs, outside diameter. Sometimes places list one or the other without regard to specifying it.
  24. That would probably be the ONE TIME that the wife would decide to be out there with ya
  25. Good advice.....ice thckness is only ONE factor to consider. because when streams run into the lakes currents are set up that reach for large distances laterally and ice also rots in spots from gas pockets, bubblers used near docks etc. Even a float suit offers only limited protection from hypothermia which sets in VERY quickly. I found out just how quickly this year that 35 degree water makes your legs feel paralyzed and it takes you forever to warm up....not a great way to end the season let alone WORSE things that could happen. You almost always hear about people going through at the very beginning and end of the season which is when the ice is most likely to be compromised..it's not worth taking the chance.
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