TyeeTanic

True Yankee. I wish I had just saved my money and bought the right stuff in the first place. I've replaced all my stuff 3 times now, and finally am at what I think works. All Shimano Talora rods. I have to say though, my Convector reels haven't given me any hastles. I have heard rumors that they recently changed some steel parts to plastic - I hope not. They were good value for money. Not as good as the Tekotas but good enough to do the job.

We use 40# fluoro leader, Seagar. I theorized that they could actually impair quality of hook up, as they soften the strike. Also if the dipsey wasn't released properly, the snubber would wrap around it and then you couldn't get it to pop. In the end I just thought I was overthinking it, and making it far to complicated, so I ditched them. I didn't see any more snaps/break offs than when I had the snubber, and although I can't prove it, I do think I get better hook up rates (better landing rate).

We don't use snubbers. Haven't lost a fish due to break off, except when their teeth have cut the line at the fly.

Definitely a CV45 is more than enough. I have 7 color and enough backing on a CV30D. My convectors are great, but I bought them all 3 to 4 years ago. Maybe there's an issue with the new ones??

I agree with Legacy. My Okuma Convector 30D holds more than 1000 ft of wire, and the line counter will be off if the wire isn't close to the top of the spool. I think I got like 100ft of 30 # braid on it. I wouldn't use anything that is too cushiony as the backing. If it stretches or it digs deeper, then it throws the wire off the line guide and being out of sink reeks havoc, including wire tangles which are not fun when a fish hits. One thing for sure, when you are out there, it is wise to take a popped open dipsey with nothing on it, put it on the end of the wire, and release as much as possible, one rod at a time, then reel everthing back in. It helps get the wire on right, tight and takes care of line twist.

By the way I think Smart Troll is making a similar type recording probe. Best to check their website.

I'd say yes it's worth it. But you have to periodically check, so I put it on it's own rod. You could attach it to a downrigger cable too, send down and then back up. I used one before I got my Smart Troll system. When I was finished using it, I sold it for a decent price online, so I'd say it worked out well. Knowing temperature is a key issue on the lake. A lot of people fish in areas not knowing if the temp is bad or good, and waste the better half of a morning trying to figure out where to be. The TD will help you avoid that and make better use of your time.

Ok I should have said very little dive depth difference. Lol.

32 lb. According to bloodrun there's no dive depth benefit going with 45 lb, so why not use 32 lb and be able to put more on your reel.

I know lots of guys that are using swivels succesfully on copper. Not sure why you wouldn't never ever want to use them. I actually use the albright, but am thinking of going to a swivel. TX44's are a bit painful to bring in if you've got a hit. No doubt side planners are nicer to use, but that's if you can fit them on your boat. Having said that, many people including myself use the TX44's and catch fish.

Why wouldn't they use 7 strand?? I can't see any advantage using single strand. It's just a pain in the backside.

True. Although thinking further with it, he could put on a long section of braid between the copper segments and then decide whether he wants to use 300 or 500 ft.

Also I'd say 300 is the most popular (in terms of hits), then 400. 500 is difficult to use as you need to be in deep water, so depends on where you are fishing and whether you need to move in and out of a shole.

How big's your reel? How you plan on attaching it? A lot of people use a spro swivel to connect lines on copper. They make a fairly thin one that goes through the line guide on the reel.

I run copper off the TX44 boards. We normally let 100 - 150 ft of line out after we've clipped the board on the backing. It keeps the copper well away from the boat. As for the dipsey, we use 1, 2 and 3 settings. That line dives way steeper than the copper so it's nowhere near it. We just like to keep it careful on the turns, I never have my boards approach more than the middle of my transom. Slow and easy. The only time we really have problems with the wire crossing the copper is (A) if a fish hits the wire and then moves to the outside and crosses the copper. Generally we try and keep the wires short, but sometimes if you need to go deep you have 250 ft to 300 ft of wire out, so it's hard to guarantee anything. (B) a dispey is popped and we don't realize it. Then you go into a turn, and MESSSSSSSS! We probably have 2 copper tangles a year. It's not fun. Cut your losses if this happens, cut the copper and move on, otherwise you will spend your whole fishing day untangling that mess.

I troll on Lake O and also stream fish using a float rod. I can tell you even with 4 lb fluoro line that in gin clear water, steelhead see that line. Everytime I drift in clear water, the fish see the line and move side to side to steer clear. It's actually hilarious to see. It's almost like they don't even get spooked, they just move 2 feet over to the left, and then to the right. So I agree it's more about the strength properties of fluoro. If you are careful tying the knots (especially with 20 lb and lower rated line), then you will be fine. I had a popular known quick snap BB swivel break before my 30 lb fluoro snapped (it was odd, happened last year, manufacturer did good addressing the issue, so I don't want to name any companies). Fluoro is friggin strong. And as per Sk8man, I only use Seagur. And yes, I'm slightly supersticious and won't use mono leader because I think the fish will see it easier. I can't prove that part!

Wow, you still use single strand?!? I abandoned that stuff 5 years ago, and even that was too late. That stuff is garbage. You can use 7 strand or 19 strand - it will be like heaven compared to the single strand. I've used 7 strand in place of a leadcore, flatlining. Yes you can use it, but for whatever reason it just isn't as productive as leadcore. Do you have roller guide rods (swivel tip) or leadcore rods (big chrome guides)? The issue with the wire is the knot to the leader (you will need 15 ft of 20 lb leader), gets stuck in the roller guides and swivel tip. It's bets to use a leadcore rod for a wire setup with a leader. But to be honest, I'd leave the leadcore as the flatline and use the wire on dipsey divers. My leadcore gets way more hits than the wire at the same depth. Don't know why, but I can tell you I gave flatline wire a chance for 2 years with very little success.

GLT's are good for the money. Having said that I sold all mine and switched up to Taloras.

Yeah, as I was reading I was like, weather is going to dictate when you can fish. I also like late June, early July. This is when the salmon are most activily feeding and are a good size too.

White with glow - normally for darker days, or down deep (90 to 100 ft or more). Chrome - brighter days, up high. Some have chrome and glow mixed - those are good ones. I use mostly chrome though (with glow if they have them), seem to get most hits.