-
Posts
1,554 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by TyeeTanic
-
Which down speed & temp system do you recommend?
TyeeTanic replied to Todd in NY's topic in Tackle and Techniques
-
Which down speed & temp system do you recommend?
TyeeTanic replied to Todd in NY's topic in Tackle and Techniques
-
Which down speed & temp system do you recommend?
TyeeTanic replied to Todd in NY's topic in Tackle and Techniques
Todd the line counter on the rigger is less of an issue than blowback. With a 12 lb weight going 2.5 mph you will be suprised to learn the ball is tracking 30 to 40 ft behind the boat at certain depths. You will also find out how you get diminishing returns as you put the rigger deeper. You will be suprised how much cable you need put to get down 100 ft. Blowback is a big issue unless you are using 16 lb to 20 lb rigger weights. Most guys use 10 to 12 lbs and I can tell you first hand I'd never go back to a 10 lb weight dup to the insane blowback. -
Perhaps would be good to mention the rim diameter. But for those that don't know, these nets are awsome, and that price is great brand new.
-
Which down speed & temp system do you recommend?
TyeeTanic replied to Todd in NY's topic in Tackle and Techniques
A couple of things on Smart Troll. Firstly you DON'T lose probes on wire and copper! The probe gets attached on the steel line about 1 or more feet away from the terminal tackle (dipsey, leader, etc). When there's a break it is almost always on the mono or a knot. Unless you've put the probe on a compromised steel line (has a kink), it will remain attached to the line even with a break off! So just make sure you put the probe on a clean wire line! Second, I also have the precision trolling book. Two issues - the data is for a certain lure speed (2.5 mph) and with a known amount of line out! We all do different speeds, especially with currents - so this already introduces error. Second we are dependent on our line counters, which ARE NOT ACCURATE. They are only accurate (sort of) when the reel is full. As you pull off line, one revolution is no longer carrying as much line as the previous, and the counter only works on revolutions. It's so bad that when the reel is almost empty the counter is saying one foot of line comes off when only 0.4 - 0.5 ft of line actually comes off! That's over 50% error! The only way to know the true depth of your line is to measure it directly. I was suprised how far off all my lines were when I started using Smart Troll. My riggers were 20 ft too high and similarly my wire lines. Some people may say, why do you need all that info. Well, I use the info when I get a bit (what speed, what temp, what depth, what happened to my line when I made that turn) to (a) tune into what the fish want quicker and (b) help me get setup for the next fishing episode. We all know 6 AM - 9AM is the best bite (most days), so why wouldn't you want to use that time as efficiently as possible and put 15 fish in the boat rather than 2 because you spent all morning trying to figure out what the heck will work! -
Which down speed & temp system do you recommend?
TyeeTanic replied to Todd in NY's topic in Tackle and Techniques
-
Which down speed & temp system do you recommend?
TyeeTanic replied to Todd in NY's topic in Tackle and Techniques
-
Which down speed & temp system do you recommend?
TyeeTanic replied to Todd in NY's topic in Tackle and Techniques
-
Which down speed & temp system do you recommend?
TyeeTanic replied to Todd in NY's topic in Tackle and Techniques
If you are worried about breakoffs the smart troll can still be hooked onto the rigger cables as per the fishhawk. In fact you can put a probe on each rigger to get true depth of each one plus you can track top and bottom of the thermocline. However I've had a smart troll for 4 years and have never lost a probe. The way it's secured to the wire line will mean it would take a catastrophic accident to lose the probe. Chances are basically none of losing the probe. Although I appreciate a new users concern over this, it actually isn't an issue at all. Knowing where your copper and wireline is will suprise you. Most of the time we are a good 10 to 25 ft off target which is important for fish that are turned off. Anyhow my buddy uses the X4 and it's reliable but the smart troll does have an irrefutable technical advantage over the fishhawk. -
Which down speed & temp system do you recommend?
TyeeTanic replied to Todd in NY's topic in Tackle and Techniques
-
Well I had one UV spoon that took a lot of hits, more than average. It was a Dreamweaver Blue Leopard Double UV. Got it at the LOTSA Salmon School last Jan! It seemed to work best when the sun was up just after 8 am. Anyhow my line got cutoff after a tangle and I haven't been able to replace it since. I've used other UV lures, and they really didn't show any magic, but that one Dreamweaver became a go to for me.
-
Trolling plate is an option, but you lose maneouverability as the thrust is taken away. Some people cut a hole in the plate to help with this. I used one for a limited perior, and as long as you didn't need to move fast it was okay. Definitely you need one that comes up easy for full throttle conditions - I had one that I think was called Happy Troller. I tilted the motor up and pulled the plate into the neutral position when I wanted to go at speed.
-
Sold / Closed Pro Troll e-chips and Spindoctors
TyeeTanic replied to troubles's topic in Classifieds - Buy, Sell, Trade or Rent
-
I agree meat works best in June onwards.
-
I've had the same braid on my salt water rods (Florida) for 4 years. Just caught a 30 lb Amberjack with those rods in August. Braid lasts a long time. I agree I look for color change and cut off if I need to.
-
Torpedo has the smallest blowback. I learned the hard way. I wouldn't use less than 12 pounds.
-
Nuclear power is actually one of the cheapest forms of energy out there. However it can't compete with burning natural gas to make power. But burning natural gas contributes to green house gases. So the real cost of burning natural gas is on the health of our planet.
-
Yes, fall is the best time. I have been told acidic compounds can be present in the old oil, and it's best to change the oil, run the engine a bit to get the parts coated up and then winterize.
-
I would definitely consider 1 rigger rod with a slider and one dipsy rod. Dipsy's catch about 3 to 4 times more fish for me than the leadcore or copper. If fish are up high (top 30ft) then running a core might be a good idea, perhaps first thing in the morning. But as fish go deeper, then I'd definitely trade the core for a dipsey. One way to keep core in the mix is to make up a SWR rod. This is a downrigger rod with 2 colors of core on it, and a 15 ft fluoro leader. The core gets the lure below the rigger weight wake. However, with a SWR you cannot use a slider, as it will stop on the knots and tangle.
-
No it doesn't. The rigger release is on the main line that comes from the rod. The slider is connected to the rod line by hooking a swivel through it (I use the smallest ball bearing swivels you can find for this one). To let it out, I normally set my downrigger line up to the depth I want. When the downrigger rod is all setup (as if you were normally fishing with this rod), I attach the slider line to the rod line, and then throw the spoon into the water off to one side. It basically trails back behind the main rod line, and then grips from drag and slides down the line. It stops around 1/3 to 1/2 way down (depending on how much blowback you have on the rod line). The rod line isn't straight down to the clip, it actually has a "C" shape from rod tip, out due to drag, and then back in to the clip. So the free slider goes to the furthest point out in the "C" shape, and then no more (if it went further down, the line would have to beat drag, which it can't). When a fish hits, it might not release right away, but you'll see the rod bouncing. The fish will pull the slider line down the main line. At this stage I pop the release and reel FAST! Take up all the slack quick and when that swivel hits the main line lure, it stops and you have full tension on the line. You bring in the fish and there are no tangles. The swivel is close to the main lure, and the fish is trailing that on the slider lure. I catch a lot of fish using free sliders.
-
Sad state of affairs.
-
It's a technique. Free slider is take a 6 ft fluoro leader with a spoon on it. Put a snap swivel around your downrigger rod line. If a fish hits that line it will slide down to your bottom lure and you have the fish on. You need to reel really fast if a fish hits the slider to take the slack off.
-
3 rods in the USA, 2 rods on Canadian side (if you have the permits). You can use a free/fixed slider to get an "extra" line in the water, without breaking the rules.
-
I had lake insight with my old HDS 5. Contours were every 3ft which was good. The new Gen 2's and Gen 3's have 1 ft contours on the Navionics maps. I'm talking about Lake Ontario, but I'm sure it's the same for all great lakes. Can you look at the unit, power it up and have a look at the maps?
-
Mike, what speed are you running? I assume 2.5 mph? I changed my walleye boards for TX44's. I can pull anything with those boards (wire, copper, mono, whatever). I don't think I'd be too worried about the angle of the walleye board though, as long as they were getting my lines way off to the side. With 150' of large diameter line, I would be suprised you are only getting 45 to 50' down. You're not going to hit 70' down until you get about 250' of line out. Generally works on a 3:1 ratio, but does plane out. A #1 dipsey probably planes out at 300' or so, but it is dependent on line diameter and density (drag and boyancy). If you do go to wire lines, twillie tips work great. I've used them in the past. I think they are more forgiving then roller tips. I've used the torpedo roller tips - they are pretty good quality (at about $35 a tip). Wire is definitely the way to go. Have fun.



