TyeeTanic

Light on the drags. You should be able to pull easily and get line off. By the way, is your leadcore off boards?

It is good practice to have the outside dipsey with a longer line out than the inside. It especially helps on turns and sometimes in high surface currently. If currents are deep and varying, that can play havoc, but that goes with any line include riggers. We had a starboard paddle off the rigger go into the port rigger cable when we were 170 ft of cable out last week. It was nuts.

Other issues that can cause this, but you probably already know: - are you powering the head unit directly from your 12V battery? Is it a clean connection (not taking off power to any other users from this, or not off a distribution bus or switch panel)? Any bad ground will cause interference, unless you have a clean, dedicated cable from the battery to the head unit. - how have you run your power supply cable? Is it run close to the power cable to the engine? At certain engine frequencies, power to or from the engine can interfere with other power cables. - have you used the right power cable? 14 gauge (16 min, but you need to check distances). Correctly insulated cable, marine grade? Too small of a wire will heat up due to resistance, especially over long runs. Also poor quality cable is not shielded as well, so it can increase level of interference from other power consumers or sources. - what kind of interference are you talking about? Lots of color at the top of the screen (prop wash) or dots and dashes everywhere (electrical interference). You could try and reduce your sensitivity, but that will also reduce the fish you see.

Hello all. Does anyone have a Shimano Talora Rod End Cap that they can part with? It's the foam cap that covers the hard plastic gimbel end of the rod (end that goes into rod holder). Any end cap will do as they are all the same size. A guest donated one of mine to Lake Ontario this week. I need them to protect my seats from shafing. Would really appreciate it if someone has a spare one that I can purchase. Please PM me if you have one available. Thanks.

I think 300 ft will get you between 90 and 100 ft at the speeds we travel 2.6 to 2.7 mph. Of course speed is important. If you go 2 mph or less, you could easily hit +100ft with that much line out.

Taloras are not wimpy rods. For riggers you want that flex in order to load up the rod, right down to the water line. Too stiff a rod, and when the line pops off the clip, it's worse for the slack created.

Someone must have reset the line counter. I agree you will never hit 100 ft depth with only 150 ft of line out at 2.5 mph. You would be lucky to be 50 ft deep on a 2.5 setting. If it was a big fish there should have been some variability in the line coming off the rod. If it was bottom it would have come out steady at boat speed. Feels like a fish at first and then you realize the reel is peeling out line at a very, very steady rate. It could have also been a tangle on underwater debris, slightly suspended, like an old buoy line.

Tyee = 30 lbs. But to really stick to the definition of catching a Tyee, you have to obey the rules: http://www.tyeeclub.org/regulations/ Let me summarize: - 6 to 9 ft rod - max 20 lb test line - boat cannot be motorized - single hook - reel with no clutch mechanism (ex. mooching reel) The standards to qualify as a Tyee catch are much more than how much the fish weighs. But, who cares? LOL. If you catch a +30 lb fish, I want to see the picture!! I will gladly tell you that you caught a Tyee.

The length if the leader is set so from dipsey to end of hook is the same length as your rod. Helps Bring fish in and any longer you will have to hand line the fish in. 30 lb fluoro leader for flies 20 lb fluoro leader for spoons. I would nit use a snubber.

Smart.

What does the scale measure?

But I thought that's pretty much what a thumper rod did. Big weight on a rod, and you look at the angle/action to judge the speed?

You mean a thumper rod?

Use a 12 oz torpedo diver. They come with dive charts for mono and braid.

Skipper, do you do this only down the chute? You're not clipping the copper line straight onto a board, are you?

On the HDS you can increase your sensitivity until you see it, but the screen becomes pretty cluttered with a lot of noise. All you are measuring is either a drastic change in water density or scum in the thermocline.

Just to clarify, you are talking on a down rigger, right? If so, yes you can get away with connecting directly to mainline in that instance. However, all my rigger rods are already setup with 10 ft fluoro leads and I don't want to take them off, so if I do use a flasher/fly on the rigger, then I just connect the rod up with the leader on it. But you don't need the leader.

4 lbs, BBQ size. Cedar plank and you're all set.