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TyeeTanic

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Everything posted by TyeeTanic

  1. What do you tangle them into? If you're tangling into itself then your letting them out too fast. Best is to put them in the water with drag on and loosen drag to slowly release about 3 to 4 ft per second. Then tighten drag once you've reached desired depth.
  2. Take dispey and point the release arm towards the sky. Turn so you are looking at the bottom, with arm towards sky. Move dipsey to starboard side or port side (side you want to put it out on). Turn weight towards center of boat. If on zero setting, the weight should initially be pointed to sky as well. Just turn it to point to the center of the boat on setting 1, 2 or 3. When it goes into the water, the side of it that's closest to the boat should be closer to the water. The side that points away from the boat should be tilted higher.
  3. There's a reason why we call them "Mud Chickens". I'd much sooner eat a Chinook or Rainbow.
  4. Pros - they get your speed down. If it's a well designed unit it is easy to deploy and retract. Cons - you lose manouverability/steering as you are kiling thrust. Also if you forget it down and take off, you can damage things.
  5. We got the new Church Tackle lockjaw clips, with a twist using your thumb they can be clipped down or clipped off. Can hold your rod now while fighting a fish, and take the board off with one hand! Those clips hold the rod fairly secure. You can also use a rubber band as extra security. Here's a link to the clips I have: http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/planer-boards/944402.aspx
  6. I'd use bloodrun, torpedo or malin, all good. I normally use torpedo just because that's what's easy to get in tackle stores around here. Debate is really 7 strand or 19 strand. I've had 7 strand that's going into my 5th season, so I can't justify the extra cost of going with 19 strand.
  7. Going without a board is not called flatlining, but rather it's called going down the chute (down the middle of the stern). Some people do it, but I use boards. If you have a salmon hit a dipsey and peel off 200 ft of line, chances are it will come up and behind the boat and cross the copper line, which will make a mess.
  8. We never go out early on full moon (previous night). Salmon basically have better eyesight and use moons light to eat bait all night long. By 6 am they're full. However, a salmon needs to eat a lot every day, so by 11 am they start biting again. So that's the time we're generally back out after a full moon. I've seen many guys give up by 10 am, and pack it in. But if they wait, almost consistently by 11 or 11:30 am, the bite turns on.
  9. Might work if you use a short lead right off the ball! Like 4 ft lead to a spoon.
  10. Fishing Lake Ontario for Salmon in July is about as perfect as it gets, no better time for them. They're the biggest they're going to get, and the most aggressive.
  11. Trolling bags or buckets. A lot of guys avoid putting a plate (like happy troller) on their engine as you loose steering ability.
  12. That's a nice choice. Good all around boat for fishing and weekend living.
  13. I actually like to use whole herring small to medium. So much easier to use, and I can control the curve of the bait to give it a better roll action.
  14. I suppose you're talking mono? I use big game 30#. Don't know where you can get bulk, but search online, I'm sure you will find it.
  15. I think you should do a renaming ceremony just for the fun of it. Get your friends together and have a BBQ and drinks over it, good excuse for a party! I renamed my boat because I didn't like the first name we picked (my wife picked). When I grew a set and convinced myself I wanted to rename the boat, I just did it. No ceremony. Took off the old vinyl name and put a new one on. The boat's been running well for the past 4 years ... even caught a few fish on it!
  16. Looks great. Even when wet, the magic erasers have micro abbrassive surfaces that will eventually dull the vinyl. So I wouldn't do this on a regular basis, as tempting as it is. I tried on a small spot of my seat, and it's unbelievable how white they can get.
  17. Yeah, I heard you should let out about 50 ft or so before you clip on the board, to help the line move through the water better (especially leadcore which whips).
  18. Feel bad for you man! That sucks, hopefully you can find who did this and sort them out! Is your stuff insured. I created an inventory list of all my stuff (not in detail, but the sub-totals like # spoons, # flies, # flashers, allowances for terminal tackle like swivels, connectors). I obviously detailed the more expensive items like rods, nets, and fishfinder. I then added the replacement value (retail), and man the total was frightening. I sent the inventory list to the insurance company as well as photos as proof of owndership. We increased the personal effects coverage and now if anything happens I'm covered. But I do get some of the stuff (like special lures) is not going to be easy to replace, as the companies are out of business.
  19. Weights should be back to adjust depending on what you are pulling. Reef runnings don't put a lot of drag on the boards. Definitely not enough to have both weights forward. Is it diving when you are just leaving it out there, or when you are reeling it back in? If it's when you are reeling it back in, there's a trick, as Sk8man points out. Put the rod time close to the water when it's about 30 ft away and reel fast towards the center of the boat. If it does nose dive, the only way to get it back is to let line out fast (to take the drag off) without bird nesting your reel.
  20. If you're going to change, consider if Airmar makes a compatible sonar. Their transducers are WAY better. The clarity will be way better and it will last longer. One way manufacturer's reduce the price of their units is to use cheaper transducers which compromises quality of signal. This is where Airmar steps in to correct.
  21. Yankee do you think it's because the release doesn't unclip fast enough and the swivel pulls hard on the mainline causing it to be damaged? Once the main line is compromised, you lose everything. I was thinking of going to clips, but maybe I'll hold off. What kind of elastics do you use? Do you tie the elastic to the downrigger cable and the slider lead? How?
  22. What speed do you troll at for pike/musky? If it's anywhere near 2 mph, I'd change your weight to much bigger. 8 lbs will give a lot of blowback. I prefer using 12 lbs or bigger. Not sure about your riggers though, make sure they can pull a bigger weight.
  23. Like Sk8man says but you can also use an OR16 clip to secure to the downrigger cable. Basically the split ring of the OR16 clip will go into the quick snap swivel that goes around the main line. The OR16 clip is then secured to the rigger cable. When a fish strikes the clip releases and the whole thing slides down with the slider leader.
  24. Right now with water cold stick baits (like reef runners), and spoons work well. Some guys will use meat. I will always have at least 1 or 2 F/F combos out. Blues/silvers are good colors this time of year. late June and July - mixed spread of spoons, F/F combos and meat. Some years spoons take the most fish, others F/F by a big margin. Green is a good color. August - bigger paddles, bright colors like red/orange/purple, more action. Typically use F/F as well as plugs. Spoons still work, so we always have one or two out. There is no distinct line where you say 1 type of bait is WAY better than the other. Only things that are steadfast for me is stickbaits in the spring and finish with them by end May, and plugs get introduced mid to late August. In between, anything goes.
  25. You really should get a sonar! And for sure you should have navionics on your phone as a minimum. Check the laws as well, in Canada you need to have a chart on you while navigating Lake O. People have been fined without one. Having said that, this bathymetry map may provide some information, but it doesn't replace a real chart. https://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/mgg/image/images/ontario_72.pdf
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