TyeeTanic

That is outstanding. Well done my friend. Excellent work, you should be very, very proud. I'm looking forward to the next video!

I can only comment Lake Ontario ... minimum 20lb mono, preferably 30 lb mono. Use a leader around 20 ft long of fluoro ... weight is dependent ... smaller the more action on the lure ... but on Lake O 20 lb is typical. Captain Dan Keating will say try 12 lbs for better action and stealth ... I see his point, just never had the balls to do it. I do use the smallest possible bb swivels I can get, based on his recommendation.

That's basically how my buddy does it for the backing to copper, and he also heat shrinks wire tubing over the knot, so it doesn't fray as it goes through the rod eyelets. For the leader to copper, I think he went to a micro swivel. I'd imagine that takes strain off the copper, given paddles like Spin Doctors can create a mess if they themselves get tangled up, and the main swivel is locked up.

Oh, and not sure you need to sell on ebay. For fresh water fishing stuff, there's a few boards like this one that have all the potential buyers you need. Take pictures of the lots and then post them along with the price you want. If you're going to have to ship everything given you are in N.O. than I'd distribute the less valuable stuff into each of the lots. I'd also say the shipping costs are extra, but you don't want shipping to be expensive, so the trick is to make sure the lot value is high enough .... like aim for $10 shipping for $100 lot price.

He probably has hundreds of things. Best to group things into lots, by type and possibly by color (so all green lures in one lot). Selling price will dictate if it sells and how long it will take. I like to sell things fast to get it over and done with, so I generally look at how much they cost brand new and cut the price in half (a brand new lure's probably $8 to $9, so if you have 20 in a lot and go with $4 ... $80 for the lot). Now, after you separate the good stuff into lots ... you'll have a lot of "junk", stuff not worth much, not in the greatest condition, and will be difficult to sell in lots. There's two approaches that work ... distribute them into the lots, to sweeten the deal (without adding to the price ... so you are basically giving that stuff for free to help the lots sell faster), or when you have a person there buying, make side deals ... "Hey for $8 why don't you take all this stuff?" and sell lots of the lower value stuff. If it's cheap enough, someone will likely spend the extra $5 or $10 to see what he/she gets.

I have heard you can't just use anything, some of the ablative paints have copper in them, which I believe damages the aluminum, also not sure if some are slightly acidic and can cause damage. Do your research for sure, and I'd be asking a reputable marine shop to find out. Maybe even call the boat manufacturer and get an opinion.

Torpedo 7 strand is good, I never bought into the 19 strand stuff. You need a roller tip or a twillie. Twillie is actually easier, more forgiving. If you use a normal eyelette ... you will break that wire .... it's just a question of time. You should put 1000 ft on the reel and you may use 150 ft to 350 ft of it out, which means that the wire will always be kinked tight on the top eyelette. With wave action, it will fatigue and break eventually.

Man, it was a long time ago, for our honeymoon. We booked through the hotel, now what is the InterContinental Presidente. Cost about $100 USD, but that was 20 years ago! LOL. I can tell you, that was the best fishing day of my life ... we caught several 60 to 80 lbs barracuda. Have the photos to make sure my memory doesn't elaborate over time. HAHA. I guess the take away is if nothing has changed, you might rely on the hotel's recommendation.

Can you post a picture of that? I'm having difficulty picturing it.

Talora. Good investment.

I called SeaDek up, find the number here http://www.seadek.com/ First step is to order a template kit, they'll mail it to you, basically transparent sheets and you lay it on your deck and draw out the profile with a marker. Send in those, and then they draw up AutoCAD plans of the SeaDeck, which they'll send a pdf to you to approve. Once you approve, they cut and ship to you. It has 3M backing, so you lay it out, and once you have it positioned, use temp tape to keep a few corners in place, then peel and lay it down. Obviously clean you deck first, don't use anything with PTFE or wax residue. Wash and then I'd wipe it down with acetone to make sure there's no gunk. It'll stick really well after that. I had my boat with the seadek for 2 seasons before I sold the boat. Never had an issue. Really nice stuff.

I sold my boat. Sold my gear separately. Everything was priced attractively. When guys arrived, I showed them other stuff at good prices. Everything sold in 7 days, $6500 in my pocket, cash. Just look at new prices and discount 50%, it'll all likely sell fast.

Hard product or something soft like SeaDek? I've done SeaDek, it's easy to install. But you have to get a template done of your boat. That's the hard part, outlining the deck, and then you send it in, for them to design it and finally cut it.

I always do that, I wash them in the river, try and get as much blood off as possible, and then they go into ziplock bags full of river water. But I'm still worried these skein eggs are going to be a problem. When I cured them with salt/sugar, they looked great, but I have a feeling when I defrost them ...

Let me know if this works. I got some eggs still on skein, and I removed them and cured. Normally I cure loose eggs, so I'm worried these ones will be weak when I defrost them ... don't want it to go to waste.

I prefer beginning of August. By mid august onwards, especially if it's hot, the salmon already slow down on eating, and may not be as active.

I use braid, and yes it's to fill up the spool, then put a full spool of mono, then tie your lead.