TyeeTanic

Take the equipment off and sell it separately. You'll make more money. Don't package the equipment up in the boat sale, you'll lose.

Star brite with PTFE coating ... spread it on, scrub, leave it for a couple of minutes, wash off. Puts a PTFE coating on the gelcoat to keep it from griming up again too fast.

Fishhawk x4D or smart troll.

30 or 40 lb Seagar Fluoro. Not sure why you are breaking off with 30 mono ... is the line old? Perhaps it's kinked from a wrap around the wire?

Sorry, should have clarified. Not trolling, but getting tackle out, rods down, etc.

I don't think the sail boat was trying to overtake. I heard the captain of the power boat wasn't looking and slammed into the sail boat. My guess is the autopilot was on, and the captain was busy attending to fishing lines, not paying attention.

I can't see any reason you would shorten the leader length for meat vs. flies. But this time of year is about getting salmon to strike out of aggression, so your setups should produce a more erratic pattern.

Torpedo, smoke color, 7 strand 30# .... you can go 19 strand, more money ... but I think the 7 strand is good enough.

Are you drifting, when you say you're not in forward gear? Or are you standing still speed over land?

This knot, except you can make it simpler by tying the overhand knot in step 4 FIRST, leave that overhand about 1 inch from the end of the doubled line, then put your swivel through. http://njsaltwaterfisherman.com/forums/index.php?topic=15015.0

Flashers with meat is the most common setup.

Well, North Shore gets tough ... staging salmon are not the easiest to catch. I'd much rather pick end of July to fish than September, that's for sure.

Kings in August and particularly September? I wouldn't waste my time ... September they are well into staging, have stopped eating and some have even started running up rivers. This starts mid August. The best time of the year to fish them is end July in my opinion. Anyhow, if you do go in August, try going earlier rather than later. The bite changes from one of appetite, to one of aggression that time of year ... and so normally we switch up to bright colors red/orange/purple ... even start going to erratic baits like lymans, j-plugs, reer runners, etc. Staging salmon normally move to shallower water, but sit right at the bottom, so you need to troll with your lines about 10' off the bottom.

I assume you are fishing lake Ontario. If so, look at this site, find out how deep you need to go to get in some 42 to 44F water. Set hooks anywhere from 42F to 52F. https://www.glerl.noaa.gov/res/glcfs/glcfs.php?lake=o&ext=vwt&type=N&hr=06

Not sure if you've considered a charter from Wilson. Nice time of the year to go salmon fishing.

Braid. I used to use electrical tape, which is okay as long as you use only 1 revolution. If you put a cushion down, the wire can squeeze into it like a sponge and that throws you spool alignment off from the worm gear guide. I put on like 100' of braid and then attached the wire, and got 1000' perfect to the top of the spool. Closer to the top you are, the more accurate your line counter is!

We apply them to boards. They are great when the water is cooler and fish are higher in the water column. Not sure where you fish, but I don't find them that productive from end of June. Water is just too warm, and fish are too deep for the leadcores. We always put 20' of leader on them, and used 15 to 20 lb fluoro. As others are suggesting, make sure you completely submerge the leadcore by letting a bit of backing into the water.

Braid backing, probably 100' to cover the base of the spool, then you can do a "wireline to mono knot" (except it'll be braid not mono), see this link https://fishing.boyslife.org/8-fishing-knots-to-know/ Then roll that wire tight and slowly, after that a swivel at the end using this knot: http://www.fishdoctorcharters.com/videos/video3F.html

30# wire for dispeys, 7 strand. 30# mono good for downriggers, and then some 15 lb or 20 lb fluoro for leader (20').

Run inside at 1, and outside at 3 for max separation. Let the outside one out first, and then deploy the inside one. You should be fine, unless you hit a situation where you try and deploy the outside diver AFTER the inside is in the water. This sometimes happens when a fish hits the outside diver and you bring it in, then redeploy it. The issue is when you redeploy it isn't biting into the water and pulling to the outside nicely. It just sinks behind the boat and inevitably tangles with the inside diver line. It can be done, but you have to release it really slow on the outside of that inner diver. Otherwise, for first timers, I'd say just bring in the inside diver to check it, and redeploy the outside first, inside second.