TyeeTanic

Not sure if you've considered a charter from Wilson. Nice time of the year to go salmon fishing.

Braid. I used to use electrical tape, which is okay as long as you use only 1 revolution. If you put a cushion down, the wire can squeeze into it like a sponge and that throws you spool alignment off from the worm gear guide. I put on like 100' of braid and then attached the wire, and got 1000' perfect to the top of the spool. Closer to the top you are, the more accurate your line counter is!

We apply them to boards. They are great when the water is cooler and fish are higher in the water column. Not sure where you fish, but I don't find them that productive from end of June. Water is just too warm, and fish are too deep for the leadcores. We always put 20' of leader on them, and used 15 to 20 lb fluoro. As others are suggesting, make sure you completely submerge the leadcore by letting a bit of backing into the water.

Braid backing, probably 100' to cover the base of the spool, then you can do a "wireline to mono knot" (except it'll be braid not mono), see this link https://fishing.boyslife.org/8-fishing-knots-to-know/ Then roll that wire tight and slowly, after that a swivel at the end using this knot: http://www.fishdoctorcharters.com/videos/video3F.html

30# wire for dispeys, 7 strand. 30# mono good for downriggers, and then some 15 lb or 20 lb fluoro for leader (20').

Run inside at 1, and outside at 3 for max separation. Let the outside one out first, and then deploy the inside one. You should be fine, unless you hit a situation where you try and deploy the outside diver AFTER the inside is in the water. This sometimes happens when a fish hits the outside diver and you bring it in, then redeploy it. The issue is when you redeploy it isn't biting into the water and pulling to the outside nicely. It just sinks behind the boat and inevitably tangles with the inside diver line. It can be done, but you have to release it really slow on the outside of that inner diver. Otherwise, for first timers, I'd say just bring in the inside diver to check it, and redeploy the outside first, inside second.

Convectors are probably the best value for money. All the important parts are robust. They lasted me for a while.

Agreed, provided all 3 guys pay an equal share to the tournament costs. Costs include entry, food, lodging, boat slip, etc. In the past, we took winnings, paid all costs, and then divided by # people + 1 boat, assuming each paid an equal share in the entry fee (which was in essence paid in advanced so this cost was not taken off).

Typically the 600 series is used to get all 1000 ft on, with a little bit of braid backing.

Good system, does things other systems can't. Yankee did do an informative review, search for it.

Any boat cost = initial investment + additional investment to fix things. 80's ... I agree with post above, you need to take a good look at the engine and drives, you don't want a big $ surprise. My friend has a awesome Pursuit, got it at a deal knowing he'd have to put work and $ into it. Still came out ahead, but he worked hard last 2 years and paid lots of $$ in. The boat is in awesome condition now, and again, he came out ahead (comparing to buying a boat in the current condition). But he knew he was going to invest $10k's more ontop of the purchase price. Be careful, it can turn into your worst nightmare.

Awesome. This is definitely on my bucket list.

Further away from the fin at the back, more action. Front hole, and fin side hole is standard, but if you want more action try front hole and side hole opposit fin. We've been using that more frequently these days.

I'd try both, but mostly inclined to use it with a spoon.

Yes use 20# Fluor leader, around 15 to 20 ft.