TyeeTanic

- Auto Sensitivity - Range = Auto - Frequency = 200 kHz - Chart speed = 2x - Fishing mode = General - Ping Speed = 15 - Noise reduction = low - Surface clarity = off - Palette = 13 - Transducer: make sure you go to Installation and under sonar settings, select the correct transducer. - Network: make sure you go to Data Source under sonar use the temp from the Lowrance unit, not Global (via network).

My buddy runs the Fishhawk X4. It works great, I don't think he has any battery problems. Really easy to clip on the probe which transmits wirelessly to the transducer. Simple system, I like! I have the new Smart Troll system. This works equally as well, but the speed probe hasn't come out yet. Once it does, I'd probably choose that system over the Fishhawk, as you can use up to 6 probes at one, on dipsey lines, rigger, etc. to find out exactly the depth, temp and speed on each line. Now, not to say I will do that, but I will likely put a depth, temp, speed on the rigger and 1 depth/temp on the dipsey. I will find the 46 F - 48F on the rigger and then the 50 - 52F on the dipsey to define the bottom and top of the water zone I want to be in.

Wire line is the best. You need to take care of your rods if you put on wire - you can't just put it on any rod, as it can saw through the eyelets. Most guys convert their rods to wire lods by adding a twillie or torpedo tip to the top. That normally extends the life for a while. As for the reel - you'll want one with a line counter and big enough to fit 1000 ft of wire - so something like an Oukuma Convector 30D.

Owner hooks are probably the best I own. I just use a stone sharperner to keep them nail gripping sharp. I sharpen in one direction only - do one side of the barb and then the other side.

Lowrance HDS series are amazing. I have the HDS 5, but would go for the HDS 8 if I had more room at my helm. The HDS series can read large map chips. The Elite series can only read a chip less than 2 GB in size, which limits the maps you can use to lower detailed contours. I had an Elite and upgraded it to the HDS, which I am very happy with. Don't get me wrong, the Elite is good too, but the HDS has a more powerful sonar output and also more detailed maps.

As the guys say go to the Shell Pier (west of Bronte) and start fishing in about 80 fow. Troll that contour for a while and then head out to the 120 fow contour if you mark nothing. Work out as the sun comes up.

Don't listen to those folks that tell you power pro will give you less fleas. You will end up throwing the line out after 1 trip in flea season. You won't even be able to reel the line in with the amount of accumulation you will get. Wire catches more salmon for a few reasons: - it has a great sink rate (3:1) because it is heavier and thinner than anything else out there. - it creates a humming sound in the water due to vibration which attract salmon.

Size 1 dipsey is the standard. Yes I almost always pull a SD behind a dipsey. I would go hang wild and bloody death, and chrome frog with screamer fly. Sorry that is 3 but would not go out withy them.

Wire dipsey - the wire hums in the water which attracts fish, as well as the turbulence from the dipsey.

There's too much stretch with mono line especially if you let out more than 100 ft. It stretches and won't pop the dipsey. Rather use wire line.

I have an easy fix. I got a few of those spray bottles with the fan attached. I either put those in the cup holders or have bought some that have the suction cups to stick on the windshield and point any direction I want. The fan on its own provides good ventilation. If it is seriously hot a few squeezes of water mist on the face and you are good to go. Total cost with suction cup holder probably $15 per bottle.

On dipsey it is enough to just keep it from creeping. For flat lines an easy tug of the line should pull the drag.

I only use 30lb fluorocarbon with my wire dipsey and have only ever snapped off once. My fault too as I had bird nested my reel and locked the drag.

Absolutely you can use a dipsey diver on the SD. This is one of my favorite setups. A dipsey diver can go from 20 ft - 110 ft deep. I use wire line on my dipseys - there's a book called Precision Trollers Guide Edition II that has graphs which tell you how much line you need to have out to get to certain depths. There's also apps for Android that can tell you that. When you mark fish on you fishfinder you can set your lines out to get to those depths. I recommend at least two different size dipseys - #1 and MAG. The #1 is good to around 70 ft, and the MAG is good to 110 ft, travelling at 2.5 mph. The flies and MC rockets that I mention in my original post is the tackle I like for salmon. Using hearing fillet is good to. Sometime's it doesn't work, and other days it's the only thing that works. You need to try different things.

I would not leave the dock without: - SD chrome frog with hammertime fly - #1 in my eyes - SD hawg wild with hawg wild fly - SD bloody death?? (purple with red/silver christmas tree pattern) and bloody death fly or purple MC rocket - SD carmel dolphin with carmel dolphin fly - SD double crush with white glow fly or white MC rocket - Pro troll 11" anything silver with glow tape, with silver MC rocket Now, that doesn't mean I don't use spoons - I generally like putting my spoons out clean (stealth presentation). Mark

Yup - that's the right lengths alright.

Are you asking how much leader between the wire and the dipsey?? If so, none. The wire connects straight to the dipsey. You will use around a 6 - 8 ft lead between the dipsey and flasher and then another 2 - 3 ft of leader between the flasher and fly/meat rig. I use 30# Seaguar Fluoro Leader.

This is the best knot for wire. It has never failed on me. I've bent open a welded ring before breaking this knot: http://www.lotsa.org/Wire%20Line%20Knot.htm I just checked the video above - same knot!

Was that 2.5 mph GPS speed or Down Speed?

Jekyll what was your down speed to hit that deep with a #1? I don't think it is possible at 2.5 mph. Maybe at 1.5 mph.

The only thing with that much line out is tangles. I like to get deep fast to keep the lines from crossing anything as I deploy. I also use 4 dipseys so my inside dipseys are going deep and closer to the boat (which is why I prefer MAGs for my deep lines). Then I use the #1's on 3 setting to get them away from the MAGs.