TyeeTanic

Yes, that's what I do - always have one line at 100 - 110 ft on an MC Rocket. Last week it took the biggest fish around 25 lbs.

Search for this - bud - I answer this question every week. My wrists are getting tired typing the same answer. Here is the quick answer. 1000ft, 30 lb 7 strand wire to the dipsey. 6 ft 30# fluoro to the flasher 6 ft 30# fluoro to spoon or meat 3 ft 30# fluoro to fly Mark

This is my exact setup too, and I have zero issues - in fact I'd never walk away from this setup.

To add a few: Bass Pro at Hwy 400 and Rutherford in Woodbridge (just south of Canada's Wonderland) - Big Store! Burns in Burlington at Fairview just west of Brant St.

The wire is stainless steel - The wire will kink and cut before it weakens from chemical degradation. I use mine for at least 2 years. Between tangles and cuts to free up lines - when it comes down to around the 600 ft mark, it should be respooled with 1000 ft.

I use exactly your setup, except for the reels which are Oukuma Convectors 30D. I do not use snubbers, I am one of those that believes they result in poor hookups. I have not lost any rig in over 1 year. And the one that I did lose ... it was the knot I was using to tie my leader. Fluoro type line is not the problem. 30# is not the problem. Wire is not the problem. Swivel is not the problem. I would check three things in order of preference: (1) Your knot. I use the uni-knot. Go to this link: http://www.thefishinggeek.com/fishing-k ... ing-knots/ (2) Your reels. I would definitely replace these sooner rather than later. Poor drag control will cause line snaps on big fish. (3) how good is your fluoro line. Is it old? Is it a decent brand (Seagar, P-Line)? Mark

Use 4 rods - a dispey on each side on number 2 setting, and the riggers in the middle. White and green dot SD, or green with black dot (frog pattern) SD. Glow Hammer fly Green Glow fly NK NGK green spoon.

Take someone out that knows how to fish. There's too much to learn, and we would need 30 pages and 10 hours to type everything out. All the questions you ask are good, but there is not one simple answer. Fishing is a system, and the system must change to suit variable conditions. Fishing depends on: - water temperature - lure speed - lure color - lure type (fly, spoon, meat) - presentation (length of lead, main line wire/mono/braid, flashers, riggers vs dispeys) - depth of line - depth of fish - weather (both what happen last couple of days, and how it is day of fishing) - wind and waves - moon phase - time of year That is just to get a fish on. Then you have to reel it in, and of course your tackle and gear is important here, as well as your technique. Mark

We caught a 12 lb (or so) coho this weekend. Nice fish.

Is money an object? If not, go with the Talora's - with roller guides. If yes, go with the Daiwa's or Rapala RSC's. Still not the cheapest but in my opinion the best value for money. Don't get the Eagle Claws - I have them - broke two last year on 20 lb fish.

Green dot NBK in the green pattern NBK in the purple pattern NBK in the blue pattern Hawg Wilde Flies: Bloody Death Green glow crinkle White crinkle Bloody death Hawg Wilde

Firstly wire does get deeper than braid based on similar diameters, due to the density of the steel being much higher than braid. That's what my Precision Trolling book says too. We are going out fishing this weekend and are using my wire rods over braid because the fleas are a pain in the arse with braid. I don't think braid is as good as wire when it comes to fleas. Wire is not difficult to handle. I learned how to use wire in about 3 hours of fishing. You learn the hard way once and then become an expert. It's simple - when you spool the wire, tie it to your spool and then tape the first rotation down with duct tape (right around the spool). The start reeling in nice and slow with some good tension to keep it tight. Next always keep the tension after using the rod and stowing away. If you see any coils be careful to uncoil before tightening or the line will snap like a toothpick. Use 7 strand 30#, it is pretty easy to work with. If the wire does break because of a pigtail (coiling), then you start seeing it with some of the strands balling up, so you can catch it and fix it quick. It isn't complicated, try it you won't be dissapointed. You will end up going this way eventually anyhow, and will eventually need to get through the learning curve, why not now?

The big boys are normally in 45F water, not 54F - that's too hot for them. Like I said "normally" - I have hooked fish out of temperature, but as a rule of thumb you want to be in the 45F. Fewer fish down there, so you probably won't get numbers. If you want numbers then yes go for the 55F and you will get a lot of bows and shakers - which is also fun.

I would go for a cheap wire dispey rod. Eagle claws are about the cheapest you will find. Wire, go for 7 strand, 30# torpedo wire or equivalent - 1000 ft. Reels, need something big enough for all that wire. Oukuma Convectors 30D are good. Dipsey's get size #1. You will be able to get around 80 to 90 feet deep with these. You'll need floro line (25lb or 30lb test) as a lead from dispey to lure, or to flasher/fly combo. I agree you'll want a fishfinder quick. You can get an entry level (black and white screen) lowrance for like $90).

Wire. Braid is useless when the fleas are out. They are out, have been for the past 3 weeks and will continue for another 3 or 4 weeks. Fleas will stick to your braid into a big blob and then you cant reel it in. Wire cuts the fleas off, no problem with reeling in. Wire gets deeper as well.

Yesserie Bob!

I was told it is a mimicing a salmon that has tried to strike the bait but missed.

I've been trying to hold them by the tail in the water behind the boat as we continue trolling. The small guys revive quick, but I've had poor success with the big boys. So really - can you guys tell me in enough detail what is the best technique, as I feel bad about seeing a big floating fish. Thanks!

No thanks - wouldn't want to put any more crap chemicals into lake ontario then I already am. I aslo don't get it, but have heard it might work. What I want to know is who is the guy who thought ... "I know, why don't we spray a petrochemical product all over my lure to see if that hits more salmon??"

Nope - I just put 1000 feet of 7 strand torpedo wire on my 30D and it fits perfectly.

I looked at the Precision Trolling Big Water Edition II - it has all the charts for mono, wire, braid - for different dipseys, weights, etc. Mark

Yes, this is due to the inaccuracy of your line counter. Most line counters (so I hear) are calibrated to give an accurate measurement of line out when the reel is FULL. Imagine one wrap around on the top of a full reel is around 1 foot of line. When the spool is empty one wrap around might only be 4" of line. The line counter works on rotations of the spool. So if you have a full reel or an empty reel, it says 1 rotation is 1 foot of line. That simple. This is why a lot of people use a backing on their reels to get the wire right up to the top of the spool (if you have a big reel), or why some people spend lots of care getting a good reel that fits 1000 feet of line perfectly. So the first 100 or 200 ft that comes off is pretty accurate - you may be 5 to 10% shorter than the line counter says - but not too far off. After that the accuracy drops off big time.

I am looking at the chart right now. The ratio is about 2.7 on average using a 3 setting. The slope of the rest of the lines is almost the same for 0, 1 and 2 settings - you just gain around 5 feet for each setting you are away from 3. So 2 gets you 5 feet lower, 1 gets you 10 feet lower and 0 gets you 15 feet lower. So use the line out divided by 2.7 formula and then add 0, 5, 10 or 15 ft depending on your setting.

Use the braid. Mono will stretch too much and could cause slack in the wire. That will cause big problems with tangles.

That sketch is impossible. The minute you pop your dipsey it will be a disaster with line twists and tanges. The best way (and I learned this from a pro) is to set up normally with one lure behind the dipsey (using a fluoro leader). Then take a second leader and tie it to one of the treble hooks of the first lure - leader must be around 6 feet long, then you put on the second lure. You end up at the same depth, but you do get more concentration of bait.