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TyeeTanic

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Everything posted by TyeeTanic

  1. For Sale, one Sony Handycam and accessories. Camcorder works on mini DV tapes. Comes with 2 blank tapes, memory sticks, charger, remote control, AV cables, firewire cable, polarized lens, high capacity battery and carrying case. Although it is an older unit, it is still pretty small and in EXCELLENT shape. Was not used that much. No visible scratches. Works perfect - like new. Located in Oakville, Ontario. Can meet somewhere close by. Cash offers only. Will take $50 or best offer.
  2. Selling two unused brand new spools of 20 lb Flea Flicker. Paid $40 + tax, will sell both spools together for $20. Item located in Oakville, Ontario. Can meet somewhere close by. Please message me if you are interested.
  3. It was a tough year. Cold water didn't help, but my guess is something is going on with the salmon fishery, based on one reason. Baitfish explosion. Less predators = more bait fish. Started last year and got worse this year.
  4. Awesome video John! There's two things - clearing your gear and also being able to bring the fish in close enough to net it. A longer rod allows us to use longer leaders on our dipsey SD fly setups, and get the fish close enough that we don't have to hand line the fish. It doesn't look like in that video the line had anything but a spoon on it, so they could reel the fish in as close as the wanted. And in tournaments, we can't spear our salmon to get them in the boat. That would disqualify the fish! LOL. That one was for fun.
  5. Longer rods due offer more forgiveness when there are big hits (for the same strength class). Longer rods are good for the outside to get away from the shorter inside rods.
  6. My friend did it on a plug (I think lymans) and caught a 28 lb king. Managed to take 7th place on the last week of the GOSD derby.
  7. A longer leader is better, but if it results in having trouble netting, you can (and probably should) shorten it up. The leader shouldn't be longer than your rod. So solution 1 is to get a longer rod! LOL. I think your leader between flasher and meat is a little long. I would reduce it to somewhere between 4 and 5ft. Purely because I prefer getting some of that action from the flasher moving through the bait. If the lead is too long it kills the action transfer. After that shorten the lead between the dipsey and flasher. 8' is WAY too long. I don't think I have one lead between those components that is over 4 ft long.
  8. tech, you can clip your line close to the ball, with a very short say 5 ft lead.
  9. I don't get any fleas on my 30# big game mono main line for my rigger rods. I get more fleas on the knots at my swivels on my wire line.
  10. I also agree the Lowrance Elite 7 is a good bet. But if you can find a used HDS 8 (Gen 1), that might be a better bet. The 2" is critical, it basically adds 50% more screen. You will want this when you split screen to GPS and Sonar. If you split screen the 5", you aren't left with much. I am selling my 5" and getting an HDS 7 Touch soon. Can't wait.
  11. I don't really see the purpose. I always have a spread of wire line and rigger monos on - you never know what is working on any given day. To start a day with all wire lines is putting all your eggs in one basket. I think that is a risky bet.
  12. I use 30 lb fluoro (not that it needs to be fluoro, but that's what I have in my bag). Never had a fish break that off. I did use 20 lb once, and did have breaks. What I found is that 20 lb knicks MUCH easier than 30 lb. The spot that would almost always get compromised is the knot, when clenched. With 30 lb, the diameter is big enough that it just doesn't knick/squish at the knot. So for that reason, I prefer using at least 30 lb leader line.
  13. It can't be your transducer. The other weekend I essentially had the rigger line with short lead almost under the transducer, for sure in the cone because I could see a line I believe was the lure. Fish hit this line 80% of the strikes.
  14. Fishing definitely has been better on the north shore the past 2 weeks. I think everything is just late.
  15. The leader should be long enough to make the distance from your dipsey to your bait the same length as your rod. You want it as long as possible, but not too long that you have to hand line your fish in the final 10 ft. Making all the tackle the same length as your rod, generally gets the fish close enough to the net. If it is all tangled every time you retrieve, you must be letting it out way too fast. There should be decent pull on the rod as it goes out. Start out letting it out slowly and then go faster until you start seeing tangling problems again, then you know what the limit is.
  16. Same with us, we display voltage on our FF. If it drops below a number it cuts out.
  17. We use 30 lb big game mono main line, and then double uni to a 20lb fluoro leader. I can't remember the last time we had a break off. I only use Seaguar or P-Line fluoro leader. We are thinking of going down to 12 lb leader next year, as I've heard from some very reputable charter captains that the catch rate increases.
  18. OK, here's my opinion, but it doesn't matter. First the agreement is what it is, and only you know what was agreed to. Normally a person needs to be there to be a part of the winnings, but if you guys had a different agreement, then that should stick. Second if it's your boat, normally the boat takes a share, whether you were there or not. But was that part of your agreement. I'm just saying how it normally goes. Third, how much money are we talking about, and is it worth ruining a friendship over? What I'd say is have an honest chat with the guys and tell them you thought it would work "X" way, but aren't concerned over it this time. For future, clarify things, especially the grey areas, so you guys can enjoy fishing, rather than let a few $$ ruin everything. I told my team mates, if ever $$ got in between our friendship, I'd rather not participate in tournaments/derbies, and just fish for fun. They all agree. Our setup, normally we have 3 to 4 guys fishing. First, the expenses come off (for that day/weekend of the tourney). Then the boat takes a share - for us it isn't a huge boat so we agreed boat takes 20% always, up to a certain cap (let's say $2000, could be bigger if running a more expensive boat). What's left get's split equally to those that fished that day/weekend.
  19. Haha. I think Guppy has it right, you weren't far enough back and away from the boat. I also think MR580 has it right, the dipsey was higher in the water column than you thought (how did you figure they were 85' down)?? Now as to what fish want and why, is like asking why I want a beer on somedays and a rum and coke on other days. It's just because I feel like it. I've been getting about 80% of my hits on wire dipsey rods, BUT! Get this, on Saturday last weekend I went 5 for 8. ALL 8 hits were on the rigger line. They did not touch the dipsey lines.
  20. How do you know when a fish hits the spoon? Assuming your drag is not set tight (it should almost just creep out slow due to the dipsey drag, 1 click every 5 seconds), then you will know as the line starts peeling out. There will be no mistake. Do they normally just hook themselves? The fish strikes the spoon and hooks itself. Do they pop the dipsey front clip when they hit? Yes, the force of the bite pulls the latch open. How close to the boat should the dipsey be? That is not the important question. How deep should my dipsey be is the better question. Here we target a temperature range about 44F to 48F in Lake O. Sometimes it's 20ft down, sometimes it's 80ft down. Once you know your target depth, you need to let out enough line to get your dipsey to that depth. Use the charts the dipsey came with to figure out how much line to let out to get to the right depth. I'm assuming your reel has a line counter on it which tells you how many feet of line you have let out. How fast do you troll? I've read 1.5 mph but now was to go that slow. For Salmon/Trout that is way too slow. You need to be going more like 2.5 to 2.7 mph. How bendy or stiff should the dipsey rod be? The one I have is pretty flexible. I think it's 1st gen. fibreglass.I would describe the tip as "floppy"/ It should be medium to strong action - so not that bendy, as the dipsey puts a lot of force on the rod. When you see a bunch of marks on the screen at say, 100 feet, do you try to run the dipsey at their eye level? or slightly above maybe? Firstly the fish are at the highest point of the fish arc, assuming they are right under your boat. If I see lots of marks at a particular depth, I set my lines anywhere from that depth to about 15ft higher than that depth. I don't set my lines all at the same depth, and stagger them about 10ft in height apart, to cover more water column. Dipseys are good from around 30ft deep to 80ft deep. After that it gets difficult. Yes you can go shallower, but I feel that gets the line way too close to the boat. Yes you can go deeper, but the risk of tangles and drag on your rod is massive!
  21. I would say a 4 year old is a+30lb king. Anything from 20 - 29 lbs is likely a 3 year old. Basically I believe a king grows around 6-10 lbs per year, on average. You could be more precise by looking at various government (or fishing association) reports, which have by investigation determined salmon age in a sample population. The last report, if I recall correctly, indicated about 70% were 3 year olds, about 20% 4 year olds, and a few 2 year olds.
  22. I use the knot Tim posted, tying the overhand first is a great idea (thanks Tim)! Use a #6 spro snap swivel as others have recommended. I have never lost a dipsey from a wire snap. I have only lost a dipsey from throwing the whole lot into the lake, without clipping the snap swivel on - dooo!
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