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sherman brown

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Everything posted by sherman brown

  1. not only should you check the hitch, but the ball should be checked before any trip. it doesn't happen often, but the nut does come off. I found this out the hard way. I hooked up to the trailer and took off on our 70-mile trip. we got about 1/3 of the way and went over a rr track. everything got crazy. the boat was swaying back and forth like crazy. it was jerking us around like a rag doll. I very slowly applied the brakes, and it started moving forward real slow. once it moved forward and took the slack out of the safety chains I laid down on the brake and pulled over. so, we were stranded. the ball was still in the trailer with the nut and washer missing. i walked back to the rr tracks and thought i saw the nut lying about 50' down the road before the rr tracks. got to the nut and was looking around for the washer. then i found 2 pieces of the washer. it had broken in the middle and wasn't working to keep the nut from backing off. tried to get it back together but the threads were shot where the ball hit the pavement when it was loose. got to looking behind the seat and found another ball. shortly i was safely back on the road after the lock washer failed and could have caused a major accident.
  2. a 9.9 should be great as we use a 9.9 big foot on our 26' boat. i use mercury on mine but i guess any of the top brands would work. i have a 02 mercury 9.9 tiller with the start button on the tiller that's a great looking and great starting with electric starting and running motor, and she runs awesome for sale for 1600.00 that'll knock your socks off. but i would guess you live too far away to make the trip to pick it up. as for the batteries you need to get an isolator to control which battery is getting charged when it has the lowest charge. this switch is automatic and keeps both batteries charged. there is another switch that does this but for the life of me i can't remember what it's called. and if possible, you should put the kicker mount on the opposite side of the boat to balance the extra weight. but the 9.9 4 stroke merc only weighs a little over 100# dry.
  3. don't know anything about the rods but those convectors are great long lasting reels. I have a friend that charters out of Geneva Ohio for walleye that used all convector 30's for running wire and they work great for him. I have a few that I got for trolling our local lake. they were great until I stopped trolling at home. but mine are the 20's. Saturday was the first trip out to our lake in yrs. I've had a boat setting around the house ready to use at home but when my younger brother died and so did a big part of me. he was my best friend that I could count on for doing anything with me or for me. most people go through life and never find not 1 person they can really count on. I had a bad experience with the madga pro reels. the drags sucked. they would work ok then just start loosening up. line then they would get tight. i contacted the company and they told me it was probably the drag washers being dry. then he said they made them very fast to keep up with demand. and it didn't happen often, but the drag washers didn't get oil. but they would start working after the washers were seated in, or i could just go in and lube the washers. then he told me what type of oil to use. I've had great service with the convectors. i just bought 4 of the Okuma cold water 203 reels for trolling Erie for walleye. 1 reel was Doa but the other 3 were awesome so far. they are very smooth, and the drags worked like you would want them to. i would spend the extra money and get the Okuma or Daiwa sealine lc3b reels. the Shimano Takota and daiwa Lexa i think is what it' s called. both make a great reel, but these are very costly. but if the convector, or the daiwa sealine lc3b reels are not in your budget the daiwa accudepth plus or the Okuma madga pro are your best choice. but i would choose the daiwa accudepth plus over the Okuma madga pro reels.
  4. if you have a wall mart nearby, they sell 18 large Canadian crawlers at a not too bad of a price. I think they even do mail order for 250 crawlers for around 42.00. they come in a Styrofoam block with a freeze pack that can be reused.
  5. I think I might have a flat sinker mold, but I believe it's a 3 oz to 6 oz. I'm not just sure it goes to 6 though. i believe it has 3oz 4oz and 5oz. if you might be interested give me a shout on messages. back when i was a little younger and was in better health and my sister and brother n law lived in Fl, I would go visit them and fish. after i retired i started going for the month of feb and fished under the bridge at ft pierce Fl in the Intercoastal close to the inlet there. we had a problem with round sinkers rolling until something stopped them. by that time they would be hung up. so after some time i switched to flat sinkers and helped the problem. hey i just thought before i switched to flat I had a round mold that I used to make sinkers. i may still have it. I will try to get out to the pole barn and check and see just what i do have. you can message me and make me an offer if you're interested in them. I believe the round mold is 2 to 5 or 2 to 6 oz sinkers. they 10# electric pot. which i will sale to you along with the molds. i'm sure i have the flat sinker mold but i'm not sure on the round one. i sold a bunch of jig and small sinker molds and may have sold it, but I don't think I did.
  6. tuffishooker didn't say it but implied it would slow him down to trolling speeds which would equate to about 2 mph or more depending on if he wants to troll cranks in the spring which is done at speeds around 1.5. and i have heard of guys even running slower. and by slowing his boat by dropping pitch he would have better boat control than using bags. my MerCruiser 350 was idling about 3.7 with a 19p 3 blade that was way over propped when loaded for Erie. it took forever to get on plane but changing to a high five 17 pitch and idling the motor down from 700 to 650 did slow me down enough to troll summer speeds of 1.8 to 2.0 mph on calm water. but to troll with the wind if we had any wind to amount to anything I needed bags to slow me down. and I don't fish springtime for walleyes. but dropping 2 degrees and going to a 5 blade and decreasing the rpms did slow me down.
  7. I have never seen dropping 2 degrees in pitch slow a boats idle speed down 2 mph with a MerCruiser motor. it may work better on a small outboard than with an MerCruiser. but you can do that along with idling the motor down as low as it will still idle smooth., I had a 350 vortec 315 hp that was idling at 700 then I lowered it to 600 and it made enough difference that I only needed bags when trolling with the wind. smooth water or trolling across the wind i could run 1.8 to 2.0 without bags. and I know the fish sometimes want you going against the wind bit I will try not to do that.
  8. not only the oil but it helps keep the batteries charged if running riggers and electronics.
  9. yes, you can use it because in my older motors I just used auto gear oil for years. but I wouldn't use it now except in an emergency. outboard oil has cleaners and anti-foam additive in it auto oils don't have. which means better contact with moving parts. but you can use it in a pinch but i would plan on changing it back to lower unit oil by the end of the season.
  10. yeah, i tried 15# test on Erie's central basin a few yrs ago when large fish was the norm. the 1st day out we had 3 break offs. when we went in i went to Karren's shop in Geneva Ohio and bought seaguar premier leader in 20# just to be safe. and the breaks stopped and after yrs. of using it I haven't lost a fish because the leader broke. i have even had hooks (bad batch of hooks) on harnesses break and have the line on harnesses break after long use of them.
  11. as said by the others after thinking about snubbers for kings a guess with the much bigger hooks and their mouth being so much tougher than walleye there would be no need for snubbers. but i would still use a leader that wasn't as strong as the main line but i think their is just no reason to drop all the way to 20#. the seaguar premier fluro is much smaller than most if not all; other flouro leaders. i use 20# and the diameter is the same as 15#. so you can use 30# and probably be close to 20# diameter line. and with this new formula of fluro has the best knot strength on the market.
  12. if all else fails and you decide to do a repair on your own you can get a thin sheet of fiberglass to work as a patch. you can do a Bing or google search online for fiberglass sheeting and get a piece a little larger than the bad spot. then just get enough resin to do the job. mix up enough to do the job. just don't add to much hardener or it may start setting up too soon. after the area has been cleaned very good mix your resin and hardener then take a paint brush and coat the floor going out at least a couple of inches past the patch area. then place the patch on and take the brush and apply a thick coating on top going out past the patch. your best bet would probably be a 1/8" and 24x24 piece to do the job. another way I have patched a boat was to cut up into small pieces of the cloth in my resin. then just use sheets of cheese cloth to cover the area plus about 4" or 5" past the soft area. I used 2 pieces of cheese cloth cut to size. then I would mix my resin with the small pieces of cut up cheese cloth then add the hardener and mix everything up together. I would then coat the area with resin then apply the first sheet of cheese cloth then coat the top of it letting the resin soak in the apply the second piece and coat it good with the resin going out a few inches past the edges of the cloth on every coating. and if it would make you feel better you can always add more cheese cloth layers. give it 24 hrs to set up then you can just use one of the cheap hand sanders that can usually find at pawn shops for less money. never give the asking price but ask them what is the least they would tale. now get you some paper or cloth masks and sand off the rough places. it's best to do the sanding outside so it's well ventilated
  13. I use snubbers for walleye with braid and with the way kings act if I was still fishing for kings, I wouldn't fish without them. and I would use 40# premier seaguar Fluro leader for the line going to the lure.
  14. OK then i wouldn't want it shipped at that price. it was a nice thought though. and you are just too far away to come get it. good luck on selling it to someone who's close enough to pick it up. thank you for chatting with me.
  15. that's a little larger than my boat, I think. can you give me the width and the length of the cover. would you ship it at my expense? does it break down for shipping? i know shipping costs would set me back quite a bit. i had a Bimini top with the top on the frame shipped to me last yr on my 2
  16. what size boat was this on? i have a 26' sylvan that needs something to shade the back while trolling. do the sides and back open for putting out rods and landing fish in the back? so how long and wide is it?
  17. yes, if you want to troll with the 4.3 it should be good. how slow will the boat go while idling? you say you have an inboard. but is it a true inboard with shaft drive or is it an i/0 which uses an outdrive? i trolled for many yrs. with a MerCruiser 350 Vortech with 315 hp. on calm days with the motor idled down to 600 rpms we didn't need to use our bags. but if you can't get it to slow enough people have been using bags forever it seems. if you have the right size bags you should need to bump it up just a little to get up to trolling speeds. my suggestion is to contact omishoutfitters.com and give them all the info on speed now and speeds you want with motor size and boat being used and they will give you recommendations on size bags you need. and like said above trolling bags and drift bags are much different bags. trolling bags will stand up much better and longer than drift bags. plus, trolling bags are made to tie off the rear of the bag giving you much better boat control while trolling. most drift bags are made much lighter and may tear if using them for trolling. also, all the drift bags I've seen didn't have a way to tie the bags off at the back. but a kicker is by far a better option for trolling. if it's a 4 stroke you will save a small fortune on gas, you have much better throttle speeds. what we have on our boat now is a 9.9 bigfoot 4 stroke without tilt and trim. but we got a good used panther tilt and trim unit that I got off face book marketplace. it also has panther spacers which moves the motor a little farther out from the boat for tilting up. these lifts come in two sizes one is a model 35 which mill lift 135# and the other is a model 55 which lifts up to 155# i believe. i have the 35. plus, another big advantage of a kicker is you can use it to get back to the dock if your big motor breaks down like ours did a few weeks ago on Erie.
  18. I started with the dipsy, but the rings kept coming off and was a pain. then came the deeper diver with no rings and the same size as the dipsy and I switched. but later I read about the lite bite slide diver and loved the way the lite bite arm could be set loose to release even if the front release was set a little tight. so, I switched again, and it was the best decision a have made regarding walleye fishing. now I very seldom drag even a small white perch around. but I don't use the slide part but use an o ring and tie a short piece of heavy braid about 10" long to the o ring and lace the line through the little block in front of the lite bite arm then put it in the lite bite arm. and tie it to my snubber then use a 6' or 7' 20# Fluro leader and add my lure on it. if i were getting divers other than the lite bites it would be the deeper divers from fishusa.com hands down.
  19. the Coldwater is supposed to be a couple of steps above the madga reels. I bought 4 new 203 reels and one of them was Doa. I bought them last fall but didn't set them up until July. we use them for walleye on Erie. the other 3 worked flawlessly for us. but only time on the water will tell the story. the convector is another good reel from Okuma. but you can get the daiwa sealine 27lc3b or 47lc3b reels for not much more money. and they have been tested as an old lca that has been upgraded to the lc3b. I used the old lca for many yrs. and got great service from them. daiwa has a couple of line counter reels that's around 200.00. it's just like picking your own poison.
  20. google it and see what is available.
  21. I had 3 yr old ethanol gas in my boat and didn't want to try it on Erie. I went to Lowes and bought clear plastic line and bought a cheap electric fuel pump off eBay. then i pumped as much fuel out as i could. filled it up with new gas and thought i was good. but got to Erie and took off. on the way out it was running good then it would take short spells of missing badly. after the 4th tank it ran like it always has. just pump it out and get new gas and add as much gas dry for the gas you have.
  22. you can still gut and gill the fish.
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