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Lead Core Setup questions and opinions


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Started fishing with Lead Core last year with some success late in the season.  This year I am going to run it starting in the spring trying different setups (2, 3, 5, 7 and 10 color using in – line Church Boards). So could you please give me your opinions on the following lead core setups?  As always thank you for your time and input.

 

What pound test and what length leads do you run at the end of the lead core? Currently running 50 feet of 12 Lbs. Big Game.  Mono or Fluorocarbon?  #10 Spro or what knot to connect lead core to backing which is braid or lead core to lead?

 

I am assuming the length of the lead will change lure action.  What length lead do you use and why?

 

How do you connect these setups to your in – line boards?  Currently modified my two TX-44 boards per the “Bloodrun†suggestion and connect the backing (braid) to the board by twisting the braid on the stainless steel pin.  Have four new Walleye Boards to use this year.  Does anyone know if these boards can be modified the same way as the TX-44 boards? Remember the Walleye Boards are not switchable.  The plastic pin that I would replace with stainless steel only connects at the top of the board.  If not do you use the “Lock Jaw, new mini Lock Jaw or rubber bands to connect the in-line boards?

 

Thank you.

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What are you fishing for? I have church boards (Tx22 and Tx44) with double action flags for walleye and spring browns. The tension can be adjusted to pull shorter cores and still have the flag action. 12# is fine for both but I would cut your leader in half to 25'. Willis knot for fluoro or mono to leadcore, back to back uni for lead to braid. I use 10' of mono between lead core and the backing because when I was using big boards, the releases grip the mono better. Its a lot of knots but my 10 color setup goes like this:

 

Reel - mono to cover spool (arbor knot) - braid backing (double uni) - 10' mono (double uni) - leadcore (willis knot) - 25' 12# fluoro leader (willis knot) - swivel (palomar knot)

 

If your reel is large enough to go with mono backing, you can eliminate the first three steps.

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What length lead do you use and why?

 

Another "over analyzed" thing in our sport. Make it long enough that you'r maintaining the stealth of LC fishing, but it doesn't need to be 100' long.

 

For spoons when fishing Salmon and Trout we run 15 or 20lb Flouro. Very rarely do we put paddles on LC. When we do the 20lb flouro isn't a problem, but I'd imagine some might want to bump that up a little.

Edited by Yankee Troller
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One of the things that may be relevant is WHERE you intend to fish.... I notice you are at the south end of Cayuga Lake. If you are using the rig on the Fingers you may wish to go a bit  lighter than for Lake O (e.g. 10-12 lb fluoro) If you fish Lake O the the 10-12 for Spring browns and then 15- 20 for the rest of the time when the larger kings may come into play.

 

As far as the boards go it is a good idea to replace the plastic pins right from the start especially if you use braid as it can wear through them. You can find the metal pins either on the Blood Run site or at the Calumet Marine website.  I initially tried the recommended modifications to the TX 44s but in my case it didn't seem to help much so I run them standard and tighten down the release as much as I can (CAREFULLY) and place the line at the point furthest inside so it won't release until I bring them in manually to release them.

Edited by Sk8man
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You shouldn't run the leadcore DIRECTLY in a release as it can snap the strand of lead inside the sheathing but it can be run that way if you use a carefully selected rubber band of the right strength such that it will break easily with a fish (have to experiment before using though to get the right tension). Bands can be "weakened" by leaving them in the sun by the way. It should be noted that running it this way may defeat some of the "stealth" properties of the approach though as the heavier leadcore will be "dragging" through the upper portion of the water rather than being horizontal underneath and it could affect lure action as well?

Edited by Sk8man
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OUR.....Lead core set ups.  (doesn't mean you have to do it our way)  We fish these off big boards when we need to reach a particuliar depth, away from the boat and or obtain a stealthy presentation.

   

 10 color set up- 18 or 27 lb 

1- Okuma 45 LC 

2- one layer of electrical tape on spool

3-300 yards of 30 lb or more braid backing tied with arbor knot to spool

4-tie backing to lead core. ( we use the V.Q knot)

5 spool on 10 colors of lead core. (your choice of brand)

6-tie on 20-30 feet of fluorocarbon leader ( V.Q knot)  (leader brand of your choice)

 

 

5 color set up for SWR-tuff line micro lead used     (this set up can also be used off the boards in spring  when fish are high up) ( this set up is used on our riggers during a mid summer day when conditions warrant going deep)

1-Okuma convector 30D

2-tie 2 or 300 yards of 18-20 lb mono to spool ( arbor knot)(mono of your choice)

3-tie on 5 colors of lead core (V.Q knot) (your choice of lead)

4- tie on 20 feet of Fluorocarbon leader (V.Q. Knot)

 

 

We fish our lead off of a tow line with large boards. Attach the backing to the release. If using inline boards, attach the backing to the release, twist and rubber band it. (Tx44) 

Also down the shoot on an occasion. Its fun watching that one get smacked.

Edited by The Scottsman
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