LongLine

4/21 & boy did it feel good to finally get out there and see this: Launched at the Genny around 6:00. Blew a little smoke firing her up but everything checked out fine. Putted around a little then put them out on the west side & headed towards Russell. River temp 46F, out front 44F, west in 15Ft – 42 F (surface). Blue surface water at 35Ft was 39.5F. Did the North-South thing in front of Russell out to 40 FOW, till I spotted this “hull busting beastâ€Â

Pat Try some "Un-Du". It softens "stick-um" type glues and has a plastic scrapper with it. I've used it on really old lures to remove tape and it takes off only the tape & glue - won't hurt paint jobs. It's formulated to take off old price stickers that are always stuck where you don't want them. Available at all craft supply stores. (Michaels, etc) Tom B. (LongLine)

Hans - Off the wall suggestion if it's the rubber/plastic tubing your after. Get a bucket of hot-hot water; a couple clean rag strips; get in position to do the job; soak the rags in the hot water; remove & wrap around the hose. Might soften the hose & make it somewhat pliable. If you have any rubber residue, a little acetone or alcohol should take it off but be careful that stuff is as bad as gas ie. flammable. If it's metal, use a plumbers tubing cutter but have extra disc blades handy. When you install a new rubber hose, put just a "dab" of vasoline, chalk or talc on the connector first, then assemble. (Obviously don't let it get into the tank) Tom B. (LongLine)

Lund SSS - Welcome to the board. (Us "central guys" gotta stick together) BTW "Sandy guys" only think there's fish over there. (I-Bay is gonna be the spot this year) Tom B. (LongLine)

Go'K Beautiful pics. Hard to believe that's Oswego. I figure over 30 miles straight line by nautical charts. Here's an explanation on how to figure out how far you can see over water. http://www.boatsafe.com/kids/distance.htm Tom B. (LongLine) p.s. talk about polution. man, look at that cloud :!:

Well, believe it or not, the 1st five do count towards being able to fish this year… Clothes dryer Furnace Expansion Tank set-up Computer & Cluster board for wife’s van EGR pickup tube for truck Root Canal Rim, tire & bearings for boat trailer Homemade rigger board w HM rod holders Bulk spool of Maxima 10Lb Mullet 23 spoons, 6 plugs, bunch of flies Box of old time trott-line clips (New bill collector for 1st five doesn’t count though) Come on tax refund!!!! Tom B. (LongLine)

FWIW Tom B. (LongLine)

Billy - There’s no harm in putting the release below the probe. Probably depends on where your riggers are mounted & your technique for attaching the line. (I.E. pull the ball in with a lanyard, swivel rigger to the side of the boat, etc.) However I have had tangles when the probe occasionally spins above water in a decent chop when I’ve attached release below the probe. I swivel rigger to the side of the boat where I can easily reach it. I’m not coordinated enough enough to swivel the rigger back into position and lower it without spin. Doesn’t take much to nick light line. Above the probe, I’ve never had that problem running solo, even in a decent chop. If you use any release that can rotate on a coated cable, it’ll wear thru the coating real fast which is why I figured out that trick with the spray tube on 150 Lb and wire insulation on the 210 Lb stuff. With a wear spot from a Black's on 150 Lb cable, I lose signal about 65-70 Ft down. Tom B. (LongLine)

Erin - This the site you're looking for? http://ocsdata.ncd.noaa.gov/OnLineViewe ... rTable.htm Try 14805 -14806 ( If the link doesn't work then just backspace off the "greatlakesviewertable" and look for a link on the page that comes up) D't'T - Love that one. Who says there's no structure in Lake Ontario??? Tom B. (LongLine)

SK’2 – That’s basically it. Those transom eyebolts are a heck of a lot stronger than any deck cleat. You really don’t need the swivel/pulley if you don’t want it. The bucket won’t be zipping across the wake like a skier & will move just rope on rope. You really don’t have to buy a ski harness. Just tie a couple of those clamp/clip/hooks (like you have on the cable/strap on your trailer) on a piece of rope. Initially, the way I got the length was to set it up on the boat out of the water. Length is right when rope will clear the motor housing but won’t fall below the cavitation plate. I think mine is 3/8â€Â

...glow for hours when properly charged with invisible light :?: :roll: Tom B. (LongLine)

Ditto ... what R'D' said Tom B. (LongLine)

Fishstix, Thanx for the site. "dam aliens, who put that island there?" Tom B. (LongLine)

Sk’2 I also run an 18 ft’r with an outboard. I have an engine/water well & storage compartment that block off access to the very back of the boat. That with the riggers, engine, and probes makes the side of the boat the easiest area to land a fish. Therefore when I want to go real slow I use the old 5 gal plastic bucket. I use a pulley/harness like you would with a water skier, to keep it directly behind the engine at all times. As Jerry said it does float. In addition it won’t turn your boat when fishing alone & landing a fish so I don’t have to go to neutral. I have about a dozen 5/8â€Â

Unfortunately the typical wind direction gizmo can only detect the local wind direction & velocity at the height where it is positioned. If it is positioned at 50 ft above ground level at the Oak, it cannot tell you what the winds are doing at the 2000 ft level nor what’s going on in Oswego at the 50 ft level. NOAA utilizes weather balloons to study what’s happening in the upper regions & just about every whether station reports its own wind meter readings. It is not unusual to have different levels of the atmosphere traveling in different directions or in the same direction but simply at different speeds. The “Jet-Streamsâ€Â

Mike “Fleas’ are Spiny water fleas, an invasive specie that has shown up in the Great lakes the last few years and can become quite abundant in warm areas of the lake. (surface – July August Sept) They can amass mostly on your vertical lines and resemble grayish-brown matts of seaweed. They’re great for plugging up your eyelets as you’re reeling in line. They do however find it difficult to stick to the heavier or coated lines and with riggers or flatlines can be removed by slapping the line into the water or "zipping" it out of the water quickly. Tom B. (LongLine)

Waterlogged - Mount the mounting board on the transom even with the bottom. You don't want the extra drag & turbulance to mess up the transducer especially if it has a speed indicator on it. However mount the tranducer bracket & the tranducer depending on what you want to see and when you want to see it. If you want to see directly below the boat while trolling then mount tranducer parrallel to the water. If you want to see slightly out to the one side then follow the contour of the hull. If you want to see while your cruising around then mount the transducer just a little bit lower than your hull and point slightly forward. If you want to follow you cannonball then point it slightly to the rear. If positioning the board is the only way you can get the transducer mounted for the view you want, then by all means bevel it. One tip - check prop rotation. Mount it on side of boat that is on the downward rotation of the prop. Tom B. (LongLine)

NK will probably have everything you could possibly want however if not go to this site. http://www.wtp-inc.com/labels-bulk_tape.html Click "custom tapes" then hit "next" a few times. In Rochester I just hit JayVees every once in a while. Pretty sure Shawn's Marina, up Billy's way, has a bunch also. Tom B. (LongLine)

Rob - Glad to see I'm not the only one that calls them dog-fish. Be forewarned though, waters that have them also have decent Largemouths. Tom B. (LongLine)

Chad - I like the map idea. Test site looks neat. Here's where a bunch said they plan on fishing: http://fishing.lakeontariounited.com/vi ... .php?t=806 Tom B. (LongLine)

Mike Scroll down a bit in the topics. There's a couple of lengthy threads there about dipseys, rods, lines. Tom B. (LongLine)

Ben - Here's another with interesting info. Not that great on detailing waves for Big-O but the pull downs are very good for surface currents, transects etc. http://www.glerl.noaa.gov/res/glcfs/glc ... pe=N&hr=00 Tom B. (LongLine)

Did a search on "down jiggers" & clicked on jigger manufacturing Boy, did I get set up :!: :!: Tom B. (LongLine)

When this one gets redeployed, it'll tell you what's really going on out in the middle, hour by hour. Great for patterns as it'll show if winds are increasing/decreasing through the night. Should come alive again in a couple weeks or so. Also great for barometric pressure patterns. http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.php?station=45012 Tom B. (LongLine)

Andre - Always inspect your cable before you hit the water. Kinks and bad crimps always let loose at the wrong time. If your cable gets curled, bent at 90 deg or caught in your tackle box lid, you can be sure a kink is on the way. Some guys think you can but you can't straighten out a kink. I'm not really familiar w/ the type rigger you have but can tell you that if it's a short arm and you do a lot of bottom bouncing, the last 2 ft of cable will take a real beating. I got some of those plastic gizmos (terminals) with the cannons I bought and the 1st thing I did was throw them away. I always use one of those metal "horse-shoe" gizmos and double crimp (with a crimp tool) the swivel/snap. I also reconnect everything at least once during the summer whether it needs it or not. H.I.H. Tom B. (LongLine)