LongLine

Waterlogged - Mount the mounting board on the transom even with the bottom. You don't want the extra drag & turbulance to mess up the transducer especially if it has a speed indicator on it. However mount the tranducer bracket & the tranducer depending on what you want to see and when you want to see it. If you want to see directly below the boat while trolling then mount tranducer parrallel to the water. If you want to see slightly out to the one side then follow the contour of the hull. If you want to see while your cruising around then mount the transducer just a little bit lower than your hull and point slightly forward. If you want to follow you cannonball then point it slightly to the rear. If positioning the board is the only way you can get the transducer mounted for the view you want, then by all means bevel it. One tip - check prop rotation. Mount it on side of boat that is on the downward rotation of the prop. Tom B. (LongLine)

NK will probably have everything you could possibly want however if not go to this site. http://www.wtp-inc.com/labels-bulk_tape.html Click "custom tapes" then hit "next" a few times. In Rochester I just hit JayVees every once in a while. Pretty sure Shawn's Marina, up Billy's way, has a bunch also. Tom B. (LongLine)

Rob - Glad to see I'm not the only one that calls them dog-fish. Be forewarned though, waters that have them also have decent Largemouths. Tom B. (LongLine)

Chad - I like the map idea. Test site looks neat. Here's where a bunch said they plan on fishing: http://fishing.lakeontariounited.com/vi ... .php?t=806 Tom B. (LongLine)

Mike Scroll down a bit in the topics. There's a couple of lengthy threads there about dipseys, rods, lines. Tom B. (LongLine)

Ben - Here's another with interesting info. Not that great on detailing waves for Big-O but the pull downs are very good for surface currents, transects etc. http://www.glerl.noaa.gov/res/glcfs/glc ... pe=N&hr=00 Tom B. (LongLine)

Did a search on "down jiggers" & clicked on jigger manufacturing Boy, did I get set up :!: :!: Tom B. (LongLine)

When this one gets redeployed, it'll tell you what's really going on out in the middle, hour by hour. Great for patterns as it'll show if winds are increasing/decreasing through the night. Should come alive again in a couple weeks or so. Also great for barometric pressure patterns. http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.php?station=45012 Tom B. (LongLine)

Andre - Always inspect your cable before you hit the water. Kinks and bad crimps always let loose at the wrong time. If your cable gets curled, bent at 90 deg or caught in your tackle box lid, you can be sure a kink is on the way. Some guys think you can but you can't straighten out a kink. I'm not really familiar w/ the type rigger you have but can tell you that if it's a short arm and you do a lot of bottom bouncing, the last 2 ft of cable will take a real beating. I got some of those plastic gizmos (terminals) with the cannons I bought and the 1st thing I did was throw them away. I always use one of those metal "horse-shoe" gizmos and double crimp (with a crimp tool) the swivel/snap. I also reconnect everything at least once during the summer whether it needs it or not. H.I.H. Tom B. (LongLine)

Jerry - now that's the cure for cabin fever. Nice! Glad to hear about the lack of lamprey hits. Maybe the LT pop' is on the rise. Billy: Check the MODIS: http://coastwatch.glerl.noaa.gov/modis/ ... 3.250m.jpg Tom B. (LongLine)

Refered to the "Genny" Brand of sturgeon... :roll: Couple/few years ago DEC put a few in the Genny. Last yr was a big article in D&C that DEC said they were doing well. Possession is illegal though & probably will be for many years. Tom B. (LongLine)

Tom - I'm a proponent of single hooks. Most of my spoons are singles. You will loose a bit of wobble at high speeds (spin sooner) but you'll gain it at the low end. I'm sure tackle mfgs will say they test their lures but there's only a few that sell replacement hooks for their lures. You'd think that the "Brand X" mfg that claims his lure is the best would also say his lure wobbles best with only his "Brand X" replacement hooks. Tom B. (LongLine)

Billy - Nice. Had to be a thrill. In about 20-25 yrs, your kids may be able to fish for them in the Genny. (don't think I'd eat them tho...) Tom B. (LongLine)

The red shrimp will inhabit warmer and shallower water than the native shrimp which are having a problem now days. I'm really wondering and wishfully hoping that the alewives will pick up on them and shift back in towards shore. DEC is on the fence. "They might be bad, they might be good." Tom B. (LongLine)

Gambler. Definitely not the gloom & doom. Appears to me that there's a slight but definite upswing. Hopefully these last 3 weeks haven't messed things up for them. Tom B. (LongLine)

In early spring definitely FF, as temp is pretty uniform. Thermal barrier can easily be found by sight. In summer definitely temp. I've caught more fish on a clean screen than out of temp during summer. Temp can eliminate water for higher percentage fish rather quickly in summer. In Fall, lord knows where the fish are gonna be at any particular moment but usually around the rivers. Speed is important all yr long, but you can fairly accurately "guess" at that with cable angle, thumpers, dipseys etc. Currents can be detected by turning the boat occassionally & being observant. Situation question: Early/mid July, you're FF shows lots of decent marks all over from 20 ft to bottom over 40FOW off Roch'. Do you spend all day trying to catch them or do you go deeper? FF won't tell you what they are. Temp will give you very good hints. i.e 70 deg might indicate they're carp, drums, etc. Cold water (from upwelling) might indicate targets. Tom B. (LongLine) (yeah I know...you'll be off Niagara anyway......)

Can't write as fast as I used to so I'm sure I missed some of it but here's my best shot: VHS rule changes 1. No limit on possession of number of baitfish 2. No motorized transport w/o permit or receipt of purchase 3. Water body defined as lake and all tribs to impassible barrier PROPOSED REGS: 1. Sale of trout eggs from angling to be illegal statewide. (not salmon eggs) plus a 1 quart limit on the water (shoreline). (you can have a freezer full at home but no more than one quart where you’re fishing) Cleaning of fish on banks ok but disposal comes under another law. (the 100 ft rule) 2. Banning eggs of all species for chumming. (trying to protect Rainbows & BTs) 3. Prohibit “running or shootingâ€Â

Hey Fishstix They say 90% of the fish are caught by 10% of the fishermen. Both of our areas are going to have a lot of fun this year. :!: :!: (7 out of 74 is pretty close to 10%) Don't worry guys, we'll release a few in both directions. (maybe...) Tom B. (LongLine)

Welcome Mike. Try Russel Station any time now (probably starting to get some crowds in next couple days). Don't over look Turning point on the Genny, State access just south of the C.G. station, Summerville pier (Just N of C.G. about 1/2 way out), I-Bay outlet, Webster Park piers. Small spoons like Lit'le Cleos with lots of distance have been a longtime favorite. Especially with a little orange/slvr, chartruse/slvr. Good luck, Tom B. (LongLine)

Dan - Did you check out?: http://fishing.lakeontariounited.com/vi ... .php?t=381 Myself, I'd only use marine plywood on the floors, after I sealed it up real well, then cover it - carpet etc. As to stringers, I'd venture a guess you'd have to splice a solid sealed & shaped piece to it. There are some epoxies out there that are supposed to be good at filling rotted areas of wood but I don't know if they'd be any good in a marine environment. It's definitely a good time to check lines & wiring. The very last thing you want is to have a leaky line under the floorboards. Rot is generally caused by prolonged exposure to moisture. I'd check to make sure any water between the stringers has a way to get out. i.e a vent or drain back to the main drain or bilge. Hopefully, you won't run into much in the troubled area. Good luck Tom B. (LongLine)

Where do you guys plan to fish out of, the most this year? I'll be off Long P/Genny/I-Bay. Tom B. (LongLine)

Mick - Which Rivieras do you have? Does it look like this one? If so, the clutch can easily be tightened up with an allen wrench through a cutout above the crank handle. There are 3 or 4 screws. Just turn each about an 1/8 of a turn clockwise. As to the size, if you can’t measure the diameter of the bolts then take the bolts to your local hardware store. They probably have drawers of nuts that aren’t packaged. Just find one that fits & remember the size. Let us know the size and we’ll tell what size hole you need. As Chinook said the drill size is smaller than the screw/thread size. Taps & tap handles can be bought at hardware stores, Home Depot, Lowes, etc. The more I think about it, I'd attach a new aluminum spacer plate into the old downrigger mounting holes on the swivel base then drill & tap the spacer plate for the new rigger. Tom B. (LongLine)

Mick - I'd use two pieces of 1/4" aluminum plate countersunk & screwed to base with s/s flatheads & a little loctite. Then drill & tap the plates as needed. If you can work with wood then you can work with aluminum. It's a lot easier than most guys think. Tom B. (LongLine)

Fishstix - What size aluminum did you use & where'd you get it? Sounds like a great place to stay away from. Yrs ago I made a solid bracket for a 7.5 merc on a 21 ft PennYan. I used white oak but lined the outside with welded 1/4" aluminum. Lasted over 8 yrs & was still going strong when I sold the boat. Tom B. (LongLine)

Kappy - try killing the favorites listing over on the left hand side. I've noticed those few half threads generally display about 3/4 - 7/8s when I do that. Everyone needs to reduce/resize their photos. And yeah the site has gotten slower since the store was added. oh well I'm sure Chad's working on it. Tom B. (LongLine) p.s. like the avatars though