Gill-T

Not only a thin blank matters at stickbait speed, but don't forget about the hook. In the spring when running at stickbait speed, I will remove trebles and replace the hook with a small siwash single. Vibrax spinner replacement hooks work good. http://www.greentackle.com/catalog/product/view/id/123/s/gamakatsu-siwash-hooks/category/4/

450 copper sold pending payment

No advantage except during flea season in the great lakes. Stick with the braid.

Good to see those bait figures. I was worried about the YOY alewives but a canadian captain told me of a massive school of YOYs on the surface out in the blue zone of the Niagara eddy that went for miles last august. Considering there is still 40 degree water at the fence line, the bait picture should remain healthy.

Hoping to sell these together. 1). Four (4) Cabelas Line-counter Gold series DMG 30 reels with Okuma upgraded stainless T-handles. The reels have 4,5,6 and 7 colors of leadcore backed by #30 lb fireline fused and mono leaders.....ready to fish. I will also include the rods which are older Shimano Triton downrigger rods in decent shape. Reels have had light freshwater use. The leadcore is two years old and has been painstakenly colored dark for added stealth. Each reel is marked with how much lead and the amount of line out to the end of the leader for precision spreads. Asking $240.00 for all four leadcore combos 2). Two (2) Penn 345 GTi reels with 300' and 450' of copper plus #50 lb power pro backing + mono leader. Seen VERY light duty in freshwater only. Reels are two years old. I will throw in two Cabelas dipsy 9' rods. Ready to fish. Asking $360.00 for both copper combos Prices are firm.

Boom days in Buffalo is scheduled for April 6th so the boom should be removed maybe on the 5th? Legally, there is so little ice they could remove it now. Drifters keep an eye out for date of removal as it will be early again this year.

I would be interested to hear your results as I will be eyeing upgrading my leacore set-ups next year and have been looking at the Tuf-line microlead. Saltist line counters with microlead and torpedo divers........I might be able to get rid of my copper rigs altogether. I hear the Willis Knot is impossible with the newer gen. lead due to the thin diameter. Hmmmmm......maybe I will list my gear in the classified section.

Back in the late 80's early 90's the way we fished on the family boat was four riggers all stacked on a 8' transom. Like others have stated, set your rod holders at opposing angles to pull the line (once released) away from each other. I would vote for the low line down having the longer lead and the stacked line with the short set back to avoid tangles. I do not stack anymore instead opting for sliding or fixed cheaters.....keeps the back of the boat cleaner for netting and allows for additional junk lines.

Chas, that time of year those were prob. Cohos not steelies.

Drift the tail-out in front of the green can. Bottom comes up quick from deep water to 12'. Bring your baits up as you come up the shelf. Three-way rigs with a lead pencil weight minnow or quickfish. On the minnow I run a cheater hook in the tail of the bait. These fish have been caught before and often know how to nip a bait off a hook.

God willing I will be drifting for lakers. Conditions will be right with light S winds. The south launch is usable. The north launch is too shallow.

Hawks are all over the 90 thruway the last few weeks which is typical timing for their migration north. I don't anticipate an early spring. I will hold to my traditional time of the full moon at the end of March before I start thinking about fishing the piers or shoreline trolling.

I don't think the fish compare the color differentials between paddle and fly, but I like to match the two because I am trying to find a color pattern for the day. If I start taking fish on a yellow/glow paddle and a hammer fly, I might key on the yellow and throw out some yellow NBK spoons as well.

Guys on Lake Michigan run them. They have a following.

Hard to teach people not to rush a fish towards the boat before they are tired and on top of the water increasing the chances of a wrap around a rigger. I always set the drag light on the initial run to get fish way out and tired to avoid trouble at the transom during netting.

Thanks for posting as the move by the netter to lift the fish to the surface could be the tip of the year! Great idea.

Hey Vlad, you and Lenok coming down for the LOTSA event?

I would add the Downrigger weight is acting like a "fullback" and reducing the drag in it's wake allowing for the flasher to do it's thing less inhibited.

I think there is more smell with emeralds than you think. I started messing around with them last year. I was fishing off the pier at Olcott and kept getting my spoon "tapped" by nipping fish. Frustrated, I grabbed an emerald and broke up pieces and put it on my treble.......next cast Coho. Bare hook....nothing. Loaded hook......more Cohos. That got my attention.

Brian, cheaper and easier still is to just add an emerald shiner to the hook. Fresh meat that is easy to find in bait stores. I just drain a bag of them and throw 'em in salt.